Cam cover change
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,185
Likes: 2,134
From: W. Texas
Cam cover change
I have done a few word searchs and not being real good on a computer I`ll just ask. To remove a cam cover (changing to a chrome one) the manual says to remove the push rods and lifters. I`m hoping the cover might be changed without goin this far. I`ve gotten stuck in my head I read where the cover could be removed with some caution. What the caution was or is is what I can`t remember. Opps This is on a 1997 FLHT EG There are times my CRS goes into warp drive BG Thanks for time WP
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 17,548
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From: Oxford, Nc
The Evo cam cover supports the cam with a bushing. I don't see how you're going to get the new cover on with the pushrods pressing down on the lobes.
You have to remove the pushrods...
You have to remove the pushrods...
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,185
Likes: 2,134
From: W. Texas
Was doing a bit reading in the manual. Yup that would be a problem. Thank you WP
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,185
Likes: 2,134
From: W. Texas
That`s kinda what I gathered in doing a bit more reading. Got a brand of adjustable rods you would use? Thank you for taking the time for me WP
Road Master
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,232
Likes: 8
From: Powder Springs, GA
The HD adjustable ones are good. That is what I run. Went in easily. Dealer should have them for around 100 bucks.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,185
Likes: 2,134
From: W. Texas
100 bucks That`s not all that bad Now to find some reading (how to) on them Thank You WP
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Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 135
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From: NW FL
Are you talking about the timing cover on the right side of the engine? I took that off no problem without removing anything but the hall-effect timing plate.
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Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 110
Likes: 1
From: central NC
Personally I would just cut the stock pushrods and go the route everyone is telling you but I have heard that If you get the cam at just the right position it does unload all 4 pushrods. If you search around you can get complete directions on this. You use the notch in the end of the cam and set it at a certain spot like 5'oclock or something like that. You can raise the tubes up and feel if any of them has pressure on them. If you push in on the cam when pulling the cover it should stay without the pressure on it. To reinstall you would have to use a bolt in the end of the cam and set up a way of checking end play with a dial indicator since you would not have the access through the tappet block holes.
As far as pushrods, The ones with the tightest or highest TPI which is threads per inch seem to work better. They stay somewhat more lined up when you tighten the nut on the pushrod. Some of the lower TPI rods will kind of **** over slightly when you lock them down. I like the rivera taperlites and they have a high thread count.
http://www.revperf.com/Tech/Instruct...nstruct14.html
As far as pushrods, The ones with the tightest or highest TPI which is threads per inch seem to work better. They stay somewhat more lined up when you tighten the nut on the pushrod. Some of the lower TPI rods will kind of **** over slightly when you lock them down. I like the rivera taperlites and they have a high thread count.
http://www.revperf.com/Tech/Instruct...nstruct14.html
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2,856
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From: Middle of Kansas
I used the HD adjustables in mine, and they worked fine. Since you are going in there anyway, I would change out the INA cam brg. to a Torrington. I did mine for peace of mind, although it looked OK.