Ok here we go. I have a 2003 Classic FLHTC 100yr ANN. Model. EVO motor with a carb not fuel injected. It has 57000 miles and I replaced the stator and regulator 20,000 miles ago. 2 weeks ago I was driving listening to my radio and the radio quit. It was a hot day over 100 degrees. The bike has the H-D enhanced sound system. Which ie diffrent speakers and AMP. The amp mounts under the trunk. So when I got home I got the radio to work but when you start the bike and get about 1500-2000 rpm or more the radio it all static and cutsin and out or bad static. So I figure the noise supressor in radio went out. The radio is a am/fm/cd/weather band. No CB in this radio or on bike. Radio is old style HD P/N 76164-03 Model RS 9803CD. I went to H-D dealer and sent radio of and got it exchanged/replaced $ 200.00. Still the same thing static and cutting in and out can't even understand anything playing out of speakers. Same thing even if CD is playing. So I took ALL conections positive and ground cleaned them all of paint/rust/dirt etc. Same thing happening. So I think ok I'll unplug the voltage regulator. Bam the radio/CD everything is clear sounds great at any rpm. But of course the bike isn't charging Batt.
Now remember I already replaced stator & reg 20,000 miles ago. But that doesn't mean it's not bad AGAIN. Or is my AMP bad or just the regulator. If I smell the primary oil it has a small burnt smell but, I can't rely on that cause I pull a Piggy Backer trailer 30% of the time traveling. The clutch does work harder causing a small burnt smell. The charging system is charging 14 volts when over 2000 rpm according to bikes volt meter. New battery and when put old battery in still same thing. I don't think I forgot anything. Not to be arrogant I am mechanically inclined and work maintenence/machine repair at my job. And have a repair business and farm. So if anybody can help or know what the problemis/could be would be well appericated.

 

Welcome to the Forum, ahh 2003 is not an EVO.
If you unplug the regulator and static goes away I think I would start by checking the charging and grounds.
Dr.Hess' How To Diagnose Your Charging System
Buy about a $10-20 digital multi meter. Fully charge the battery (overnight on a 1 amp charger).

Scale on DC Volts, around 20V max voltage scale. Nominal readings are given in brackets. Check voltage across battery terminals (12.8). Turn bike on. Check voltage (less than previous, ~12.0+, depending on headlight, accessories). Start bike and let idle. Check voltage (could be 12.0 to 15). Rev to about 2500. Check voltage (should be more than observed with bike on but motor not running, and more than with bike off. Ideally between 13 and 15.) Turn high beam on. Should be about the same, give or take a little. If the voltage is over 15 or 15.5-ish with a headlight on, I'd consider replacing the regulator and/or checking all grounds (battery to frame, regulator to frame in particular).
If you pass the above tests, your system is most likely fine, including the regulator and stator. If you don't pass, then:
Bike off. Meter set on Ohms, medium-ish scale, like 20K or 200K Ohms max scale. Pull stator plug. Ground the meter black lead to a good chassis ground, like a bolt or even the battery negative. With the red lead, touch a different part of the bike, like the engine case at an unpainted part or another bolt. Meter should read low ohms, like 0. With the red lead, touch each contact on the motor side (stator) of the plug (the part stuck in the case). Depending on if your case has a male or female plug, if you can't see the metal part/pin of the plug, you can put a paper clip in the hole and touch the paperclip with your meter red. Meter reading should be infinity on all pins. If it isn't, your stator is shorted to the case, replace.
The following is for single phase systems. I don't have a multi-phase and haven't had to diagnose anyone elses, so I haven't dug into those systems.
Set meter to lowest ohm scale, like 200, typicaly. Check resistance between the two stator plug pins. Should be fairly low, like a few ohms. The spec is in your shop manual. If it is infinity, stator is blown open. If it is 0, stator is shorted to itself.
Set meter to AC Volts, 100V scale. Attach each meter lead to a stator pin. You may need to rig up some type of temporary plug. It is important that nothing can short to ground or to each other accidentally, or you will blow the stator if it wasn't blown before. An old plug off of your last regulator is a good way to do it, but, get creative and be careful. I can do it holidng the leads on the pins once the bike is running, but I don't like to. Start bike. Voltage should vary with engine speed. Specs are in your shop manual, but 35V at a couple thousand RPM is probably about right.
If you passed that stator test and failed the first test, your regulator is shot. If you failed any part of the stator test, replace both regulator and stator.

 

Hello Ridemy EVO;

I got your post on checking my stator and regulator. Thank you. One more thing I did notice is my stator is unpluged from my regulator. I turn the key/switch on and the radio buzzes and crackles for about 5 to 10 seconcs. then the radio plays clear. Bike ie not running and like I said the stator is unpluged from the regulator. That almost eleminates the stator doesn't it ? sounds more like the amp has took a tird. The next thing I am going to try is unplug the wire under the seat that goes to the regulator. I think if it still buzzes when turning the key on then it would be the amp. And that amp is NO LONGER aval thru harley or anybody. What do you think ? Your first reply was awesome and I am going to check things like you said. You are VERY mechanically smart by the was you put all instructions.

 

Check out the Biketronics site. They have a complete line of audio accessories for Harley'sm and can probably help you troubleshoot as it is their only business.
John

 

Yep. Welcome to the forum, but definitely NOT an EVO if it is a 2003. Got good advice from the Doc anyway. Good luck.

 

Strange problem ... first thing i would do is stop throwing expensive parts at it , replacing stators , radios etc. at 20-30 k is not a good idea .
Questions ... what type of " static " do you hear ?
A quick snapping noise that follows the sparking of the plugs is related to a bad or shorting to a pos. feed antenna ., a varying whirring noise is related to the charging system. Try running stereo on bat. only , if ok go to above culprits.
Try running stereo without amp. engine and engine off , if difference , check amp. grounds, etc. come back with details.

 

I want to thank everybody on ideas. the noise I hear as soon as I turn key/ignition switch on is. mind the motor is not running the stsaor is unpluged from regulator. And the 3 wires that go from regulator to a plug under seat is unpluged. I turn ignition switch on. Thru the speakers I hear aloud buzz and arcing of electricity sound for 5 to 8 seconds. then I can hear radio or cd which ever is on. the noise is there if radio or cd is in play mode.
I wish I could unplug a amp but, I can't. Its all Harley and wiring harness is all in one. No way to play radio without amp unless I can get a scamatic for amp. Its not in Harley service manual.
oh I hear ya not buying anything else until I know what it is. Amp from Harley mounts under trunk and gets HOT. Whit everything in charging system unhooked I feel it the amp. I was 100 degree plus the day it quit. Then next day it would play out of left speaker. Now plays out of all 4 speakers. And Ido ride with it at 3/4 volume 90% of the time.
However I do appericate everybodies input and suggestions. So any more ideas would be great. THANK YOU !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Ex. car stero installer ., from what your describing, im down to 2 possibilities.?
1) The amp. should not get noticibly hot and should play through all speakers at all times. The following wiring info. will cause a hot amp also.
2) The initial 5-8 sec. loud buzz and elec. arcing sounds indicate a shorting Din. plug or multiple pin plug . These plugs are preamp only and carry millivolt signals from the head unit to the amp. the amp. then amplifies these signals and sends high power feeds to the speakers.
Look for large cables that terminate in big multipin connectors , with stereo on engine off ., wiggle the cables at the point where they enter the large connectors as this is where they usually short . If there is a short you will hear the descibed nasty noises as you wiggle the cable . If you find a bad one come back for repair info. if needed.