Is there somebody who can tell me how much teeth there are on the compensating sprocket and on the clutch (4-speed) of an 1984 Evo??

I can't find it in the books, and before I tear the primary down, I thought I try it here first...

I need the primary gear ratio in order to caculate my secondary drive, to get my Hiway RPM down.

Thanks in advance!!

grtz,

Kees

 

softail, primary 24/37, secondary 23/51
FXR, P 24/37 S 22/51
FLT/FLHT P 24/37 S 24/38

Hope this helps. also many of the older HD have had the primary ratios changed in order to move the torque/RPM's to where a previous owner wanted it. Most of the international ones had a different secondary ratio too.
John

 

Thanks John!!
This helps for sure!!

I don't think the previous owner changed the gear ratio, 'cos I know the man, he has two left hands...

So that gives me 24/37 Primary and 23/48 secondary, this gives a dragbike feeling to me.
The Highway RPM has to come down, now I can calculate some rpm's on 80mph speeds...

If someone has a good idea to a nice final drive, let me know?

Thanks!

Grtz,
Kees

 

Kees, you're talking about a thirty year old bike! Leave the gearing alone, it is what it was born with and doesn't need changing. Don't allow yourself to be fooled by the lower rpms more recent bikes use - they ain't healthy either!

 

Thanks for your replay Graham.
But this isn't just a thirty year old bike...

The engine is new, and if you haven't took this bike for a ride, I don't think you can say leave it alone...

This engine makes the power that scares you when you "launch" at the trafficlights
When I say I need to reduce engine RPM at highway use, I don't mean I will coke the engine, it means that it makes to much RPM at the power that it makes.
Hope I explained it a bit in my school English?

Grtz,

Kees

 

Understand Kees! So tell us more about this beast, so we can be more helpful! I am running an S&S 107" on stock US 1990 gearing in my Glide and it is fine.

 

A while back I had the same problem with a Honda 750.
I took two teeth off rear sprocket and everything was great so I suggest you get a rear sprocket with two fewer teeth and a new belt.

 

The good news is you have a mechanical speedometer that is hooked to the front wheel, so gear changes will not affect it. I would only go one tooth at a time on either the engine or wheel sprocket. too much of a change can be hard on the clutch.
John

 

To tell more about this bike:

It's a homemade Bobber, lightweight in comparison to a stock Softail.
It has a 80" engine, but an Andrews cam, heads are flown, Wiseco pistons, modified CV-carb, modified exhaust, Dyna S ignition, took a while to get this far

Stock primary with an Riviera Pro Stock clutch, Rev Tech 5-speed gearbox (1:1 final ratio) and a chain final drive.
It gets of his place very, very quick!

But on highway speeds I think it makes too much RPM.
Yesterday a friend said he has a RPM gauge for testing, so that's what we will do first: check the rpm at different speeds and look if it is really on high rpm or if it's in my head...

It is very cold here in Holland so we have to wait a week or so to do this.

I also did calculate the rpm after changing the sprockets, you have to do big steps to make really a different, a rear-sprocket with two or three teeth less should do the job, I think.
Theoretically spoken with a gearratio of 23/46 final and 24/37 primary I should get about 3200 rpm at 80mph for highway cruising, sounds reasonable.

But we have to measure first and see what it really does on the road before changing anything.

I will post the outcome here, so that somebody else can use this also.

Grtz,

Kees

 

Hi Kees, it's cold here in the UK too! We have a Russian member Maxx and I reckon he's left a door open!

Your 24/37 primary is stock Evo and fine, same as my Glide. A final drive of 23/44 will give overall 25mph/1,000rpm, so that 3,200rpm gives you 80mph. That assumes you have a rear wheel of overall diameter of just over 25" or 640mm. 23/46 will give you 24mph/1,000rpm and 80mph will be 3,330rpm.

Hope that helps!