So far I have found Z9504 2RS but my bearing supplier is on the case for the double row ones that V Twin use...apparently you can get a new spacer made up to be 0.192 longer than your original one if using the kit with a 19 or 21 inch wheel but I haven't checked that in the real world yet.

 

no but looking at doing the rear bearings on my glide

stuck the bearing number on google, very common bearing used in trailers ford transits and washing machines

cost of replacing the bearings is way cheaper than the cost of machining out a hub / wheel

hardest part is getting out the outer race, jims do a nice tool for this or a bead of weld on it to shrink it works well

 

Back in the 70s, when I wanted replacement tapered roller bearings for my shovel, I visited a local auto parts shop and they told me they were the same as a popular Ford car of the time! They are great things and capable of taking high loads. When Harley went to ball races they adopted ones with a larger OD, hence the changes to later wheels. So I am suspicious that those that will fit in a tapered bearing hub may be marginal on load rating.

However each to their own and thanks for listening!

 

just phoned Heidi at ths and ordered bearing kit and seals for back wheel £17

£17 will not go very far to pay to get hub machined

 

BMW. Airheads and I believe the current Oilheads etc.
And set with the right pre-load and lubed with every tire change, they last hundreds of thousands of kilometers -- like car wheel bearings do.
Usual pre-load for BMW is zero shake at the rim but no drag evident. (IE zero clearance, and zero to a bee's dick preload).
BMW adjustment for pre-load is with a HD type spacer, but it is two-piece, the second piece being a narrow 'wedding ring' on the end, available in various sizes to set pre-load. (I just use emery paper or shim stock depending on which way I want to go.)



You can buy taper roller bearings that have a seal on the outer side of the inner race( If that makes any kind of sense!) that stops water getting in and grease getting out. Using marine grease helps too, does not wash out easily.


WW2 I dont know if they even had taper rollers back then. My old 42WLA has ***** and adjustable cones like a pushbike in the front and loose rollers that run straight in the hub, no race, on the back. Now that;s a PITA when the "race" wears out beyond the range of oversize rollers.

 

This makes no sense to me, outer races press in till bottomed, use shims to set endplay on inner races with center spacer.
As long as there's no water intrusion, they'll last forever.

 

Easy Spanners, I'm not slamming the guy, I like modern, easier and cheaper.
I am very curious how well ball bearings that install as direct replacements for the stock bearings hold up.
If you locate a kit that seems suitable, let us know how well they perform. I'm hoping you will have the opportunity to observe them over their service life or, at least, some significant portion thereof.

 

Properly set up Timken wheel bearings will last just about forever as long as they are cleaned and repacked every once in a while.

It is a simple process to set axle end play.

The Timkens in my `89 Softail have over 140,000 miles on them, and the end play has never changed.

I can`t remember ever reading a post on the forums about problems with tapered roller wheel bearings, but I have read countless posts about sealed wheel bearing failures.

 

Just found the front wheel kit from "All *****" for my 1994 dyna on fleabay, and the rears from another company on ebay as well.

Not sure if that is the type of sealed bearing kit your looking for? They have other years listed as well.

Not sure if it helps, but gave it a try...YD

 

Do they have a website?