It finally stopped raining enough for a ride after installing lollipops in straight drags, bike ran rough. Do I start from zero and tune carb. or is there a short cut to utopia? What usually occurs when lollipops are installed as it relates to carb tuning? Richer ? lean?

I measured valve travel with new high lift valve springs and kit temporarily installed in anticipation of new EV72 cam and found enough clearances and no issue with valve to piston clearance
on my 4 5/8" stroker. Using bike forvwork this week so could not keep cam in as no time for adjustments while working.

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The lollipops add restriction and cause less air flow overall. You'll get richer with them.

 

Are you washers the same size , close don't count ,& where in your pipes did you set them ? also are they just set tight or can you open them /turn side ways to open up the pipe , all these came into play for tuning right , But like outlaw said they will cause restiction

 

I have slash cut drags, on the short side 4.25 inches to center of slip-on i have a 5/16" eye bolt double nutted to floor of pipe. I used a laser level to insure placement. Used caliper as measuring device, digital. At this point no washer weld to eye bolt as my purpose was to stop reversion only. So I can close down on mixture screw until I get to preferred idle?

 

I wouldn't think a 5/16 Bolt would change the flow that much unless you have 1-1,1/2 small id pipes ,

 

1 3/4 pipes with harley slip-ons. There was a very noticable change in idle, it was choppy, not smooth as before. All I want is to stop the reversion making my heads look like sewer drains.

 

You're getting some inaccurate advice.

Look at the photo below. It is a dyno sheet that shows the difference between open drags, drags with the bolt trick, and drags with a small short baffle.

The reversion wave in the open drags causes the mixture to go way rich in the dip area, so in order to make the bike run decent, you would need to lean out the main jet to the point where it gets too lean on the top end.

When you add the bolt/lolipop, it disrupts the reversion and the a/f will go leaner in the dip area, but stay the same on the top end.

Adding a small baffle will flatten the curve out even more, almost taking out that rich dip.

On this dyno sheet, the jets were not changed. Same main jet.

On the setup you described, (stock headers with open slip on), I would get a set of large Khrome Werks drag pipe baffles, and cut off one or two *****. I have tested these to see what they do to the a/f mixture, and they work very well in flattening out the fuel curve.

The bolt or lolipop really won't affect your idle mixture, make sure that is set properly to begin with.

 

I put 2 inch drag "mufflers" on my FL, pulled the factory baffles and installed lollipops. I never could get it right so I went back to the big 4 inch, baffled mufflers that were on it to begin with. I fooled and fooled with it and eventually threw in the towel.

 

Thanks for posting that. I put open fish tails on my Springer and wow did it run like cr&p. I installed some cheap drag specialties baffles and it's much better. Your dyno sheet and explanation is very useful, thanks.