87 flst stutters under load
#21
hi,i've gotten a little further along and maybe just looking for a heads up before deciding if i should delve further.Re the wire from the regulator to circuit breaker(junction to + battery terminal),as previously mentioned,i noticed a join along it and also another part that had very slight chaffing.When i continuity tested from either regulator ground to +cb terminal i got continuity,but the wire concerned me so i tested for continuity and resistance across main circuit breaker terminals and tested good,cleaned up while i was in there anyway.So,i figured in case there was a short along the wire(it is a sealed accel unit,so could only test from regulator mounting bolts to main circuit breaker)i would replace as much of the wire as i could access(also cleaned regulator/frame where it mounts).First inkling that something was amiss was before splicing new wire onto the small bit of wire coming out of the regulator i tested for continuity across the new and old wire i was about to join,nothing!.So,and maybe should have tried this earlier(i have a lot of info i have printed off re troubleshooting,the following test result ,i think, indicates to me that the regulator(presumably inside accel unit)wire is at fault ,battery test as follows off=13.31v/idle =14.42v/revs = no voltage change,tried secondary confirmation by checking if light brightened slightly under revs,no it didn't.Now,reason for hoping to get a heads up(apart from the wife sick of me buying tools etc to get this far without a result,is it is 250 kms to nearest dealership to diagnose further,and $250 for a new regulator which i'd be more than happy to get IF it solves the issue,i'm curious on your thoughts on what i should do just in case the regulator is only 1 symptom??,or do any of you have a regulator you want to sell me???,thanks guys
#22
#23
#25
hi all, seems my last post didn't actually post ,um, i tried all the tests in the sticky(& some others from the net) and all results within recommended perimeters.I recorded all tests and results and have found a mechanic locally who had a listen and will check it out,i ended up getting that ignition module for a steal,and have purchased the adapter harness(for pre-90 modules),upon listening, he thought fuel, but checked out fine,also, the only tests i hadn't done was the ignition sensor plate,which he checked ,fine,we're gonna try change out ignition module and see if that's it,if not ,he wondered ,but didn't think it would be, valve springs,if that fails,off to ;;the stealership 250kms away, rest assured,i promise to update the post when all is sorted(although, if it becomes an expensive exercise the update may be awhile off) as i hope the symptoms/troubleshooting/advice/solution will help another brother out,thanks so far guys,as frustrating as it is,i have gotten to know my bike more and that can't be a bad thing,cheers Deon
#26
#27
yup,changed my 15amp circuit breaker to hoping it might've been my lucky day,but.alas...i'm certainly curious to know what it's gonna be after all these checks,at least,although i'm yet to diagnose the 'actual' issue,i've replaced a few jumper wires etc. and cleaned up alot of terminals on my travels round the bike
#28
#30
That type of miss would be one of two things on my ride.
Improper float level, or corroded or loose battery cables.
Float level is my first concern. Sounds like it's set just a little too low and isn't letting enough gas into the bowl, and is running dry.
You could also check the petcock in the tank and see if it coated with tank debris causing it to run slow starving the bike of gas at odd times.
So often I have tested my battery connections and they felt tight. I then discover corrosion and loose fittings when an issue like this comes up. Our bikes vibrate so much that it isn't uncommon for the battery terminals to be an issue.
I have had intermittent ignition modules that die on the road only to start right back up and work for another period of time. From my experience they are not either working or not working. When they become intermittent it's a real pain to define.
You have a cam sensor under the nosecone of the right side of the bike. I have seen these become intermittent too. Often it's the wiring touching the hot pipe or a stretched wire in the harness attached to the frame.
Hopefully you'll locate the issue soon.
Improper float level, or corroded or loose battery cables.
Float level is my first concern. Sounds like it's set just a little too low and isn't letting enough gas into the bowl, and is running dry.
You could also check the petcock in the tank and see if it coated with tank debris causing it to run slow starving the bike of gas at odd times.
So often I have tested my battery connections and they felt tight. I then discover corrosion and loose fittings when an issue like this comes up. Our bikes vibrate so much that it isn't uncommon for the battery terminals to be an issue.
I have had intermittent ignition modules that die on the road only to start right back up and work for another period of time. From my experience they are not either working or not working. When they become intermittent it's a real pain to define.
You have a cam sensor under the nosecone of the right side of the bike. I have seen these become intermittent too. Often it's the wiring touching the hot pipe or a stretched wire in the harness attached to the frame.
Hopefully you'll locate the issue soon.