on that early regulator i have had this issue a few times and found the regulator / stator combo charged with no load on it other than the ignition and worked well - BUT turn the lights on and it goes away and wont maintain 14.2 at speed

today we up date them to the 32 amp unit from the later bikes and all the issues are gone - batterys last longer amd the system works as should

 

Thanks, Guys... JohnnyC- I have only owned the bike for 10 weeks, but since I have owned it I have really run it a lot compared to the last dude. It started out as a minor problem and I just simply ran the bike a while before giving it a full load as you suggested. It is stock with no extra lights or "chicken lights." Now it wont run with lights at all... Johnjzjz- I think you are right and that I need to replace a tired charging system, as I have 3 thousand miles of watching this one fail... and as a testimate to their engineering it is still running... crazy not to do the 32 amp ugrade if there are charging system issues...

 

If you throw parts at it without properly diagnosing it first, your chances of fixing the problem are limited. If it wasn't charging, you wouldn't be able to crank it, for example, and you would not see the problem of not running with the lights on.

 

I understand and would like to see the bike fail at a specific component, but the charging system checks out ok at high idle, and the bike runs without missing with the lights on at high idle also, (14.2.) The missing starts under load. How would I test for this while riding the bike? Or maybe how can I simulate a load with the bike not going anywhere?

 

If you have a bad stator then my link with not be of any help. However if you you have an older switch and want to be able to run your bike without your headlights on then my link can help you to re-wire your switch.


https://www.hdforums.com/forum/evo-c...positions.html

 

Your bike will run just fine with the stator completely disconnected. For a while. Then it won't start, but if you jump it, it will still run fine for a while. The battery has more than enough reserve to run the rest of the electrical system, including the headlight, for an hour or two without being charged. A "weak" electrical system or one with excessive load, that is, one that is not charging to what is being used, will cause the battery to run down to the point that eventually, the ignition won't work anymore, but at that point, the battery will be so low that you will not get the motor to turn over. At no point in this thread did you mention having to jump start the bike or put it on a charger between every ride. If you system checks out per my sticky on diagnosing your charging system, then the charging system is not causing your problem here. However, it is your money and your bike, and upgrading the system to a 32 amp is a good idea. I plan on eventually doing it myself (I'm still running the original stator and have replaced the regulator once.) However, that's not going to fix your problem. What it will do is **** you off that it didn't fix your problem, get you pissed off at the MoCo, us, the bike, etc. It is a big job and not inexpensive. Do what you want.

 

Hess,

You are so right. I personally haven't yet had the bike not start, or even the headlights go dim at an idle. Not real sure because I'm not a night rider anymore.

The horn still honks, the starter still turns and the trickle charger shuts off overnight.

In my case it does not begin to miss with the headlights, turn signals, and the brake lights all running at the same time. Might fluctuate the voltage meter down to 9 or 10 volts under that load.

If I feel it's dropped too low while riding I simply switch off the headlights / running lights and let it feed a good full charge to the battery, as long as I'm not in traffic situations where lighting is most important.

Could the final answer be to dig deep into your pocket for the most advance triple phase systems out there?

 

Final answer to what, Johnny? Not the OP's problem. A lot of people use those 3 phase systems with good results. Me, I want more amps so I can eventually convert to EFI, and I prefer to use HD parts so that I know I can find a regulator or whatever on the road.

 

The problem of not having enough current at times even when the system seems to check out but the voltage seems less than it should under load.

I thought Harley did add 3 phase to their OEM product line in the past couple of years?

Hasn't there been some sort of discussion about the stock volt meter's position in the electrical circuit. Thought it was something to do with not actually measuring the voltage at the battery, or being in the charging circuit. Seems to me many have proved the meter to not be accurate. Been a while since I read up on that.

 

The meter only shows what the voltage is at the meter, which is hooked to the end of about a dozen electrical connections, give or take, and small wire. It is only for a relative comparison.

Yeah, the MoCo went to 3 phase systems. But, if you buy a 3 phase system for our bikes, where can you get parts for it on the road? It's not going to be a HD part. That's my concern.

Really, though, the 23 amp electrical system is adequate for these bikes if you haven't gone nuts on electrical accessories. I've been running mine for 28 years and >80K miles, and probably 60K+ of that with a radio and an amp. If the voltage drops below charging at idle, big deal. You don't let your bike idle long enough to drain the battery. If you did on an air cooled motor, something else bad would happen to you first. As we say in medicine, "treat the patient, not a number."