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Tranny help asap!!!!

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  #31  
Old 09-03-2014, 04:28 PM
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If you're expecting the trans to shift like a jeweled machine you may be expecting too much. Perhaps you should reread the thread and review the options that were offered. There were at least three ways you could go that I saw. Just another dumb ***....
 

Last edited by Juan L; 09-03-2014 at 04:30 PM.
  #32  
Old 09-03-2014, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by rwhisen
If you're expecting the trans to shift like a jeweled machine you may be expecting too much. Perhaps you should reread the thread and review the options that were offered. There were at least three ways you could go that I saw. Just another dumb ***....
i just re read it and what he said its does not shift a bitch i think was the term and it leaks

my guess and it is a guess his cutch is draging - ( it has the arm type lever on the outer door and its worn so the start location needs to be changed for it to work correctly ) a post not long ago the guy had the same issue and a change from the oem way of adjusting it is what i gave and it fixed that problem - 100 bucks worth of gaskets and seals, oil primary and trans fixes the leaks

the guys make light of some terms as it brakes the over and over to new guys who have the same issue as others had last week -- chill dude the guys on this site willl stick with you with great info pictures and support some have been answering questins for 2 weeks now and have it in the bag
 
  #33  
Old 09-03-2014, 07:13 PM
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This ain't my first Harley so I know how they shift... It don't wanna down shift unless I rev it up while slowing down but up shifting it does ok... Gotta kick it down a few times to get it in first
 
  #34  
Old 09-03-2014, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 84EGCLASSIC
This ain't my first Harley so I know how they shift... It don't wanna down shift unless I rev it up while slowing down but up shifting it does ok... Gotta kick it down a few times to get it in first
the issue is in the drum and or the slector -- the drum comes out with the trans in place but the selector is a different deal - fixing 2 things at the same time one is actually free - you will have to empty the trans and you have leaks its a win win
 
  #35  
Old 09-03-2014, 07:58 PM
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I’m fairly new around here, (less than a year) and don’t have answers to a lot of the questions, but reading through the posts in the EVO section, there’s a lot of comradery, a whole lot of kidding around in fun and a lot of good information from a good group of guys…so don’t take the busting chops personally.

I darned sure wish I had the hands on knowledge of a lot of the veterans here!
 

Last edited by Tony_N; 09-03-2014 at 08:06 PM.
  #36  
Old 09-03-2014, 09:44 PM
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I built my last Harley from the ground up but the transmission only had 2,000 on it so I just rebuilt the motor and honestly I have never even tore apart a trans it just looks like a living nightmare!!! But I do have a complete gasket rebuild kit on rose I will add the selector and the drum in with it also but I have noticed when I pull my cluth that arm that comes up and bends over where the cable attaches to MAYBE moves a half inch IF that!!!!
 
  #37  
Old 09-03-2014, 09:50 PM
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And by drum do u mean the cam barrel that sits right on top or the actual clutch drum that has what looks like 2 different size sprockets attached? Like I said... NOT a transmission guy
 
  #38  
Old 09-03-2014, 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 84EGCLASSIC
Would be nice if dumb *** people would get there minds outta the gutter I CLEARY stated in the initial post I was not talking about a he/she it would be nice if the dumb comments were helpful... And if 84-90 is compatible how would that work when they went to belt drive in 85?


if you have the late style you only need to change the inner primary and main shaft and belt drive was introduced in mid 85.
 
  #39  
Old 09-03-2014, 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by johnjzjz
i just re read it and what he said its does not shift a bitch i think was the term and it leaks

my guess and it is a guess his cutch is draging - ( it has the arm type lever on the outer door and its worn so the start location needs to be changed for it to work correctly ) a post not long ago the guy had the same issue and a change from the oem way of adjusting it is what i gave and it fixed that problem - 100 bucks worth of gaskets and seals, oil primary and trans fixes the leaks

the guys make light of some terms as it brakes the over and over to new guys who have the same issue as others had last week -- chill dude the guys on this site willl stick with you with great info pictures and support some have been answering questins for 2 weeks now and have it in the bag
that's not fair its been at least 4 weeks now
 
  #40  
Old 09-04-2014, 07:30 AM
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you need to use the factory book, read the job even a few times // and use the factory terms for the parts and not guess what something is being called - the guys will use what the factory calls something EVEN if a better term could be used - as confusion is the first thing you cant have fixing something -- the trans you have in that machine is a very user frendly unit - NO end plays to deal with - no real special tools for setting shifting forks - its basic and easy - read on and ask questions as your doing it - you will be fine they made that unit simple it must have been a mistake what they did but they did and its a great unit easy simple and it works when your done

even at the cost of starting another oil war i like 85 / 140 HYPOID gear saver oil from bel ray
 

Last edited by johnjzjz; 09-04-2014 at 07:33 AM.


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