make sure you guys have your crankshafts checked for runout

 

The fueling has larger oil pasages then the SE. The fueling does create greater oil pressure. Going in an A motor fueling is the way I would go, Going into a B motor I would look at all my options and cost, I starting on a B motor now.

 

Use the SE and if you want a better oil pump... use a Thayer instead of a 1909 crap box Fueling pump.

 

In my opinion all you are doing is spending more money on the name. The SE update kit is the way to go. I put one in mine.

 

The main reason to choose the Feuling camplate over the SE is a decrease of 20-30 degrees of engine temperature measured at the cylinder head. The Feuling plate is a high flow plate which is port hole matched to the case vs. the SE & factory plates are restricted due to the smaller oil pump.

The Feuling plate is made from 7075 aluminum vs. 6061 used for the SE, 7075 is almost 50% harder and stronger than 6061 aluminum. There really isn't much difference from the factory cast plate to the SE plate other than billet and anodize. The 6061 used in the SE plate and cast material of the stocker have almost the same properties and once again both have restricted oil passages due to the stock pump.

The Feuling pump increases pressure volume by 20%+ and scavenge volume by 30%+. If you have oil dripping from your air cleaner the increased scavenging from the Feuling pump is your fix.

 

Actually, the SE cam plate conversion kit I bought came with a larger oil pump, hydraulic tensioners and new outer gears and chain. Also added Jims powerglide 2 hydraulic lifters. Super quiet and works just fine so far and the engine is runing 10 to 15 degrees cooler. Not bad for half the price of the Fueling kit. 6061 is a little softer than 7075 but also less britle...

 

I'm leaning towards the SE billett plate and the T-Man 3 stage pump when I take my 06 Ultra apart to make it a 120 this next winter, I'm using the HQ Black-ops lifters right now and their plenty quiet. FWIW a good tune and a oil cooler will get lower temps as measured at the heads also, the side benefit is a better running engine.

 

Would the higher pumping pressure result in higher tensioner pad pressure
on the timing chain ? We all worry abt pad wear.

 

Not Phil, but we build engines here, and install them, along with cams swaps day, after week, after month. 98"ers, 107"s, 117"s, 124"s, you name it.
Several times a week, we are in the cam chest area.
That said, we have only used 2 billet cam plates, ever, and they were upon customer request.
That's 12 years of working on the T/C's.
I am waiting to see the difference that the additional money spent in that area, provides, because it just ain't so.
Scott

 

I just did a "hydraulic tensioner upgrade" with the Andrews conversion cams and stock '07 and later support plate, tensioners, chains, etc, to my '03 95" Road King. I'm pretty happy with the result. I'm still wondering about the lack of bearings for the cams (I like assembling the cam support plate a LOT better), and the lack of the bronze bushing for the pinion shaft. Any comments about either the cams running on aluminum, and also the pinion shaft?