got some se parts and looking at there website,, this combo looks good? My first build diy!!


103 cylender

mcr performance heads 16952-08

flat top cast stroker pistons 21966-07

se259e cams with required perfict fit pr 18402-03

td and open air(just the regular se ac)

My main concern is the se website and the mcr instructions say 0.580 lift max...ok cams have a 0.579 lift,but are the pistons ok with that much lift????

website points out that 103,mcr heads,and flat top pistons are ok together but is sort of vague about this combo with a high lift cam..

Just dont want to hear sssccrreeech when I flash the ecm with my lap top and start it up!!!!

 

Valve lift is not the critical dimension; TDC lift controls. You should be OK but always good to clay and check; for peace of mind and no doubt. Have never used the MCR heads; ported stockers usually perform better. The max lift refers to the lift the valve springs can accomodate without coil bind or retainer to guide clearance.

 

thanks, i just dont want to do any grinding of pistons or valves.first started with the se II kit with flat top and jugs then desided to go for mcr heads and biger cam. Hopeing to make this a modest,reliable,fun build this winter.My sert is being reprogrammed by tts mastertune.
I have the names and numbers of some builders but also hopeing to see what i can learn hear first.If you conect the dots the se website shows this should fit nicely and no cautions about mixing these same manufacteing company parts?

 

the way we check valve to puston is to remove the valve springs,mark your TDC +.060 on the valve stem (with the valve on the seat) up from the seal,place the head on the cylinder with the piston @ TDC,push the valve down with your finger and see if it makes contact before you get to the mark,if not your good to go,if you have contact,measure the distance the valve would have to travel to get to the mark,and thats the depth the piston must be machined.seen guys bend valves using clay

 

I spoke with my builder today and learned some interesting things.Even though this is a bolt on type of build I should absolutely check valve to piston clearance anyway.thank you prodrag ,,,that gave me some ideas.
also unless i use adj. pr always stick to the HD stock head gasket period ,in his shop they always just put a cometic 0.030 on with no second thoughts(with adjustable pr).

This might be an over simplification or maybe im makeing it to complicated?

Speaking to him today gave me more of a birds eye view,how it is in the real world and how fun,rewarding,and simple it will be this winter with my diy project

 

TDC is not where the minimum clearence happens between the valve and piston. Some point after TDC the valve is traveling at a much faster rate than the piston is where the minimum clearence happens. Do the clay check so you can see the valve to piston relation.

 

Can be done with clay but prodrags method is far easier and more accurate.

 

It can be done with a valve travel checking fixture as well.
Dial the TDC lift into the 1" dial indicators, and set it in place, on the cylinder, with clay in the valve reliefs.
Lift off it off, and then slice into the clay with a razor blade, and measure thickness.
Make moves as needed, if needed.
Scott

 

With no clay in the valve pocket how do you confirm clearance on the eyebrow?Why mark the stem in that case...Just lower the valve to bottom of the pocket minus the TDC#'s and if the remainder is .060" and .090" good to go???

Cheers!

 

Don't forget that you can't use your hyd lifters to do this check, you will get a false reading