Hey guys can someone out there give me some advice. I've got a 2000 softail I'v just bought with 2800 miles on it, I'm going to put a big bore kit in it and a Mikuni or a S&S carb (which one is better) and new cam's. what is the better way to go gear or bolt in cams? I'm looking to get that low lope sound out of it.
I haven't done nothing yet just trying to get all of my part together, why is a gear driven cam better then a bolt in or are they? I'm looking at a set of screamin eagle heads that came off of a 88ci (used) what should i do to them.
thanks Jeff

 

I ain't no pro by any means on this site but let me chime in anyways. First, DAMN that's low mileage for a 2000, good deal! Second, I've tried the Mikuni 42mm on my 95" build, nothing wrong with it, but much prefer my SE 44mm that I have on my bike at the moment, has more torque than the Mikuni but the Mikuni had a little more top end HP, like 2 or 3 at the most. For the gears vs the bolt in, I'll let the pros deal with that one. As for the SE heads, save your money and get your stock ones reworked since you'll have to rework the SE's anyways. Have you looked at some of the reputable engine builders for a complete 95" kit? Best bang for the buck imo...

 

Need more information on how you ride to recommend cams but most tend to overcam. Stick with your OEM CV carb; nothing wrong with it and it will support a 95" build with bolt in cams. You can also send your OEM carb to Dakota kid for boring and upgrading; it really is a good carb and easy to tune. No need to go with gear drives; more trouble than they are worth IMHO. There are two hydrulic cam drive options for the earlier models; the "hybrid" kit or a full conversion to the complete OEM hydraulic setup for the '07 and later models. You will need conversion or "N" style cams for the '07 OEM setup. You can save some $$ by sticking with your current chain drive setup; just install new tensioners and check them every 10K-12K miles. Whichever way you go, change the inner cam bearings to the Torrington B148s.

The Andrews 26 or the SE204 are both nice bolt in cams and will make a good runner.

Be careful with the SE heads; there are several different PNs. Provide the PN and we will know if they are rignt for your application.

You also should be thinking about upgrading your ignition module to a DTT unit that is adjustable; timing is important.

 

On the cams- I'm running 37Gs of my 04 softail. Great all purpose cam- as for DJL's comment on over-camming and needing to know riding style, I could agree/emphasize that point enough!!! Most of the time we run our bikes in the mid range, when you look at curves, don't get overly wrapped up on max hp or torque, but look at where that power is made. If you go with a high hp / late power cam, realize that you're only going to max potential when you're well into the throttle (think cramming it when the light turns green and praying there are no cops around) Think about passing power on the highway without having to shift down to 3rd gear Look for something that is good across the entire spectrum, not awesome just in one band. Assuming, that is, if you want to improve overall performance not just drag racing.

I went with the gears for 2 reasons, first and foremost, in 04 HD had a nown issue with the tensioners prematurely wearing and destroying the cam box- I wanted to permanently resolve that issue first and foremost (incidentally, I don't know what other years were exposed to the same failures, you may or may not be in that window.) Second, Andrews used to have a display case with the gear and chain drive cams side by side with levers to spin the cams. The gear was a one handed turn of the dial without too much effort, the chain was a two handed bearing down on the handle to turn the cams.

***Before I get flamed for that part- I don't know if the display was a marketing gimmick or not, but it solidified my decision. Again, maybe there is science there, maybe not... I was late 20's and figured the easier the gears were to turn, the less the motor would have to work, the more power transfer (rather than loss) to the motor and then ultimately to the wheels. Fact or fiction, dunno.

If you want to ride like a human being, go with a solid midrange cam 37 or 510 or similar. If you want to wide open throttle and race / show off- go high. If the 2000 has the same tensioner issues, look at gears- if you want to put any credit in to that display, well, then do that too. I also would mention that exhaust is every bit as important as air, gas and cam in maximizing power. Drags are loud, fun and produce that stock car sound we love... but not the most power preserving system known to man- then again, most 2-1s are less visually and audibly appealing- it's all about figuring what you want and what you're willing to sacrifice to get there.

 

The Mik is a good choice, but the OE cv is a VERY good carb.
The S&S will also deliver, but a Thunderjet would aid in the operation of it.
A rock-solid combination that'll never have you in wonderment is this;
A head that'll roll off 155 cfm, @ 10", @ .600 lift.
Wood TW-8G cams. 1) for the power delivery, and 2) for the sound.
Bore to either 95", or 98"
S&S roller rockers
S&S Pushrods
DTT ignition
Barnett clutch spring.
Mucho reliable fun!!
Scott

 

Wow some good kick back on this, Thanks guys. Now for my riding it's my wife's bike and we ride on back roads 95% & in the mountains most of the time and with other friends, We not horsepower junkies just like the good ol harley sound.
We bought this from a doctor and he did like it so it sat.
Now reason for a rebuild. the back jug is leaking 1/2 way up they checked it out and the oil drain bk tube is the cause and it's making a different noise on the front cylinder they don't know what it could be. So I said lets do a big bore cams air filter exhaust and all.
As old Paul would say now you know the rest of the story. Thanks Jeff

 

Well, if that's the case, and you don't want the scorching power of what I previously mentioned, then an Andrews 37, bored to 98", with the compression set at 9.8-9.9 cr might be just the ticket.
Scott