Oil Pump and bearing shot
#1
Oil Pump and bearing shot
I bought a 2000 Road King last November. The bike has 7,500 miles and about 2,500 miles ago the bike supposedly had a big bore kit upgrade. I have seen the cams, they are marked SEH-203. I have only put about 300 miles on it since I bought it. The outer rear cam bearing is shot. One of the sliders is broken. The oil pump has grooves in it.
I just put Mobil 1 oil in it about 200 miles ago. That is the only thing I've done. Bike ran great for the first 300 miles I rode it.
Does anyone have an idea what would have caused premature wear?
I just put Mobil 1 oil in it about 200 miles ago. That is the only thing I've done. Bike ran great for the first 300 miles I rode it.
Does anyone have an idea what would have caused premature wear?
#2
With only 7500 miles on it, the tensioners are probably still good. I'm assuming you took the camplate out,not someone else and checked 'em.When they wear, they have a reputation for causing havoc in the camchest. Improper install, not seating o-rings proper,hard to say. You may want to search those cams on here, the 203's and replace 'em and depending on your buget, replace the camplate with the upgraded hydraulic version with improved oil pump.
#3
tensioner check
The plate was pulled. Only one slider was broken. The tensioners were fine. I am considering the gear drive and new camplate. I am for sure going to replace the pump. After buying a new pump, I'm not sure my budget will allow a new gear set and camplate. If the votes lean toward a waste of money if I don't, then I will get the money together somehow.
#4
If your budget is tight fix what is broke.
There are many, many TC with the silent chain running all over. Just check the tensioners every 15-20K.
I would do the new chain and oil pump conversion before gear drive. One with inner and outer new type. Check the prices as some are more expensive than others. and don't forget the SE kit from Harley.
The new type oil pump is a good upgrade but if money is tight do what you gotta do and save up.
There are many, many TC with the silent chain running all over. Just check the tensioners every 15-20K.
I would do the new chain and oil pump conversion before gear drive. One with inner and outer new type. Check the prices as some are more expensive than others. and don't forget the SE kit from Harley.
The new type oil pump is a good upgrade but if money is tight do what you gotta do and save up.
Last edited by Old Gunny; 05-11-2011 at 07:39 AM.
#5
#6
The SE Hybrid cam plate (PN 25284-08) can be purchased from Zanotti's for $360 plus shippin and includes a new and improved oil pump; IMHO, a better option than gears and I have run both on my bikes. This setup also has the upgraded hydraulic tensioners and the outer chain is a roller. You can run the SE203, which are not a bad cam, but will need new outer bearings and should replace the inner cam bearings with upgraged B148s as others have suggested.
If the oil pump is scored, check the cam plate for corresponding scoring; it may need to be replaced as well. By the time you buy new cam plate and oil pump, your halfway to the SE Hybrid kit.
If the cam plate is OK and budget tight, just replace the tensioners if they need it, new outer bearings, upgrade the inner bearngs, relace the oil pump and put her back together. There a about a gazillion H-Ds on the road running the old style tensioners; just need to keep an eye on them and check them for wear every season.
If the oil pump is scored, check the cam plate for corresponding scoring; it may need to be replaced as well. By the time you buy new cam plate and oil pump, your halfway to the SE Hybrid kit.
If the cam plate is OK and budget tight, just replace the tensioners if they need it, new outer bearings, upgrade the inner bearngs, relace the oil pump and put her back together. There a about a gazillion H-Ds on the road running the old style tensioners; just need to keep an eye on them and check them for wear every season.
#7
Thanks
"If the cam plate is OK and budget tight, just replace the tensioners if they need it, new outer bearings, upgrade the inner bearngs, relace the oil pump and put her back together. There a about a gazillion H-Ds on the road running the old style tensioners; just need to keep an eye on them and check them for wear every season. "
This is the direction I am going for now. I am replacing the oil pump, all the bearings and new tensioners. I will save for the next 15,000 miles and do it right the next time.
Is this the most common problem for these engines?
I know that might sound like a Troll question. It's not. I am just trying to figure out any other problem that might be coming up next.
Thanks
This is the direction I am going for now. I am replacing the oil pump, all the bearings and new tensioners. I will save for the next 15,000 miles and do it right the next time.
Is this the most common problem for these engines?
I know that might sound like a Troll question. It's not. I am just trying to figure out any other problem that might be coming up next.
Thanks
Trending Topics
#8
You will read a lot about the old style cam chain tensioners failing instantly causing catastrophic engine damage and it has happened. However, the failure rate compared to the number of bikes running around that have never had tensioner issues is miniscule. The failures were created by the spring loaded tensioner (heavy pressure) in constant contact with a non-roller chain. In some cases for one reason or another, this led to failure without warning and could cause significant damage. In 07, the cam plate, oil pump, tensioners and chains were upgraded. Oil pump scavenges better and pumps better,i.e., more oil pressure. Tensioers are hydraulic and chains are roller; good upgrade.
The '99 model year has problems with inner cam bearing failures and rear outer cam bearing failures. The Torrington B148s are the full compliment upgrade to the original caged INA b cam bearings. Rear outer bearing was a ball bearing and it would just die. The MoCo replaced the ball bearing with a roller about mid model year. Before that change they tried loosening the bearing fit in the plate to see if it would help.. It didn't and the bearing can spin, slowly wearing the plate.
May want to check the cam tensioners at 25K not so much the plate. but depending on when the bike was made you may want to check the bearing fit in the plate.. If loose replace it.. HD had a a bearing issue on the rear cam where ball bearing would die. They replaced the ball bearing with a roller about mid model year, nov/99. Before that change they tried loosening the bearing fit in the plate to see if it would help.. It didn't and the bearing can spin, slowly wearing the plate.
Your plan is sound and those replacement tensioner will likely last a long time; your chain has been "polished" by the previous miles.
The '99 model year has problems with inner cam bearing failures and rear outer cam bearing failures. The Torrington B148s are the full compliment upgrade to the original caged INA b cam bearings. Rear outer bearing was a ball bearing and it would just die. The MoCo replaced the ball bearing with a roller about mid model year. Before that change they tried loosening the bearing fit in the plate to see if it would help.. It didn't and the bearing can spin, slowly wearing the plate.
May want to check the cam tensioners at 25K not so much the plate. but depending on when the bike was made you may want to check the bearing fit in the plate.. If loose replace it.. HD had a a bearing issue on the rear cam where ball bearing would die. They replaced the ball bearing with a roller about mid model year, nov/99. Before that change they tried loosening the bearing fit in the plate to see if it would help.. It didn't and the bearing can spin, slowly wearing the plate.
Your plan is sound and those replacement tensioner will likely last a long time; your chain has been "polished" by the previous miles.
#9
For the money you are doing right.
I think that some of the reasons HD has a better oil pump system is, besides the obvious more pressure and better schavging(sp), there is potential for better cooling as more oil gets to the top end drains back carriying more heat. to a cooler if you have one.
If you ever get to the the roller support plate on top the oil drain holes (two on each plate below the little filter, oil separator thing) can be "drilled out and deburred" to 0.100-0.110.
This helps a lot from blowing oil out the vents along with the needed venting.
I think that some of the reasons HD has a better oil pump system is, besides the obvious more pressure and better schavging(sp), there is potential for better cooling as more oil gets to the top end drains back carriying more heat. to a cooler if you have one.
If you ever get to the the roller support plate on top the oil drain holes (two on each plate below the little filter, oil separator thing) can be "drilled out and deburred" to 0.100-0.110.
This helps a lot from blowing oil out the vents along with the needed venting.
Last edited by Old Gunny; 05-11-2011 at 02:32 PM.
#10
I appreciate the help guys. I feel more confident in the direction I am going. I always want to do it right the first time, but only if I can afford it. I hate throwing good money after bad. I will get it together within the next week and will just enjoy riding for now. I just didn't want to worry if I rode more than a couple of hours from home that it might not get me back. When I heard the knock begin, I was only 20 minutes away from home and knew somone in the town I was in to leave it for the night. If I get stranded somewhere, especially with one of my kids with me, I will likely get rid of it. I don't want that to happen if I can help it.
You have given me the peace of mind to take the kids with me and that is what it's all about for me.
Thanks again.
You have given me the peace of mind to take the kids with me and that is what it's all about for me.
Thanks again.