1.5 ounce every 100 miles = 1/2 quart every 1000 miles; the MoCo will tell you that is well within acceptable limits. The motor shouldn't be using any oil at all. If the oil is getting by the vlaves, it should show up on the plugs; have you checked them. If the oil is getting pulled through the breathers, it will be redirected into the combustion chamber with the A/F mixture and burned leaving carbon build up on top of the pistons.

Run the leakdown test again; use a true leak down tester. Make sure the piston is a TDC and the engine locked so the crank cannot rotate. Start at 40# and increase the cylinder pressure in 10# increments to 90# taking readings at every 10# increment. Sometimes cylinders will show low leakdown at 40# or 50# but the leakdown will increase with cylinder pressure. You may have done this already but I would want to verify that the 1% leakdown is an accurate measurement.

 

The plugs look as though they are ok, burning a pale gray. All the testing was done at the dealer so I cant tell you the process, only the numbers. I have a stage one with the SE backer plate and a K&N filter with V&H slipons and Techlusion. The bike runs real smooth and has plenty of power, It is just this oil loss thing. The breathers is my guess because of the carbon. You sound like a Harley tech yourself. Thanks for answering.

 

Plugs being pale gray is good. Oil would darken them and would residue on the bottom of the threaded-in part of the plug. Harder to see if you use black plugs. This is why I like NGKs, the bottoms are silver and easy to read. I'd lean toward ventilation.

 

I'm no expert,but 10lbs between the front & rear sounds like its to much.From what i can recall from my engine builder, It should be less than 5lbs & 2 to 3 lbs is ideal.Mines is 2lbs difference between front & rear.

 

I had 4500 miles on my ride before I dug into the engine. 200 and 190 seems high on a stock bike. Uless I missed a sente nce.
anyways I had a 5% difference in my cylinders. Once apart I found a lot of carbon. About a good 16/th of an inch. Im not exaggerating. I posted a pic on this site some were. I tried seafoam and it did not work I had to take a wire wheel to it to get it off the pistons. The chambers looked clean. Hmph go figure.
Now im at exactly the same comp. On each piston. I did get new pistons and went bigger : )

 

10% difference between cylinders is well within the limits of acceptability and the 10# variance is only 5%. Of course, we would all like for the compression in both cylinders to be identical but unless chamber volumes and deck height are identical, there will always be a variace. I have seen chamber volumes vary from 83cc to 89cc. If the OPs number are correct, his top end is in good condition in spite of the 10# variance.

A more intresting question would be how his measured compression compares to calculated to see which cylinder is off.

 

Is this a stock motor?? Cause that's a little high for a stock motor.You had a cam change??,or you running the SE255 cam??? ****,I'm running a higher comp, & my cylinders read 210 & 212!!
Any head work??

 

The engine has not been messed with at all. No other work done other then a stage1, and a really thorough break in. Alot of roll on and roll off. perhaps the numbers are high because of the carbon? I see different tricks to get rid of it, like water spray, seafoam spray, ect. Can the water spray damage a piston?

 

Something is not adding up here. A stock 96" motor should have about 180psi cranking compression. There woud have to be 8cc of carbon built up on the top of the piston to push cranking compression up to 200psi. Beginning to think your numbers for compression and leakdown are not accurate.

 

The dealer did the test so I may go back and ask the tech. In any case I think I will do the compression test myself and see what I get. I have to get the proper gague parts, so we will see! the whole (EVERYTHING IS FINE) thing just does not sit well with me.