Local dealer is running a special on the Stage II Big Bore kit. Cost is $1275 for jugs, pistons, clutch spring and hi-flo (which I already have). In talking to people I am understaing that the cost vs. performance ratio is not worth it for just a straight 95" kit. That I would be disappointed with the results for what I paid.

Well I was in shooting the chit with the sm today and he was talking to me about a 95" build that he had in mind for my 06 carbed Street Glide. Let me know what you think and if that is a reasonable price.

Bored jugs
10.25:1 pistons
204 SE cam
Compression releases
Clutch spring

All for $1700. Fair price??? Decent build???

 

I'm not sure, but will you need to have your heads machined to accept the comp release?

 

don't need compression releases for that build. I would look elsewhere after being told that.

 

My build cost less than that. Why don't you do the work yourself?

 

If your going to keep the stock heads don't use the 204s with those pistons,tell them to put 211s cams with those 10.25 pistons if you need to stay with the S/E stuff.

 

dawg: Space and confidence to tear into an engine. I know everyone says it is easy with a shop manual. I am just not good with engine work and I am not going to risk it.

roadglide65: Care to elaborate why the 211 over the 204?? Just curious to know why.

 

Monstermile: The 204 and 211 have the same lift, .508. The difference is in their duration: the 204 is 236/240, and the 211 is 248/256. Oversimplifying things, those numbers tell you how long the camshaft will keep the intake/exhaust valves open; and, generally, the longer duration cam will allow more air/fuel into the combustion chamber and provide more hp and torque.

If you are interested in value based on hp/tq per $$ spent, the HD stuff is pretty poor value. That is not to say the HD stuff is junk, it's not. But their stuff does reflect their very, very conservative approach to hp and torque.

Also, whatever you do put on your bike, about 65-70% of what you get will depend on the equipment choices you make; and about 30-35% will depend on the quality of tune you get after the installation.

I suggest you call guys like Doug at Head-quarters, Steve at GMR, and other pros in the business of meeting a wide variety of customer goals for more hp and torque, and learning a lot more than you may already know before dropping $1,700 at your local HD store.

 

The 204s with the 10.25 pistons are goine to get your ccp in the mid 180s ( I am assuming a bunch here) the 211s have a later close and will get your ccp down in the 170 range easer on the starter. Have help with several of these builds4 or5 years ago and it was a quick way to get into 90/90 range beforethe after market guys exploided to where there at now. So if you need to stay with the S/E stuff that is why I suggested the 211. BTW JMO

 

Great. Now I am even more confused. I don't want a drag racer. I just want more pull off the line when loaded down and alot more in the mid range. I'm not interested in going 120mph or beating crotch rockets.

 

Well what the confusion ? don't profess to know it all just enough to get me in trouble LOL

I don't have a problem with the S/E stuff and yes there are some good after market kits out there but I have used a lot of the S/E stuff and had good luck with there products. Right now the only thing that I don't use are the cam's because I wanted gear drive. If you would like to see some dyno chart for the build look in the dyno section here.
http://www.latus-harley-davidson.com