Twin cam crank press
#11
03-19-2013, 12:06 PM
Soft 02 I have seen that video and even thaw it tells about the later motor sprocket shaft having to be machined does not give you much information on how to assemble and true the cranks or what they use.
Every crank builder does not want to tell me much like a person like I is a big threat to there booming business. I have done MUCH research about taking apart, assembling and truing HD pressed cranks and have not found much if anything on this subject. I might be up setting some of the big crank guys but I am getting ready to blow the lid of all of this unless they want to pay me big money to keep my mouth shoot LOL. Good chance if they told me I would not be doing what I am.
I do not like someone like this so I go and figure out how to do it. I have had very little teaching on HDs never been to school but have learned 90% of what I know by doing it and research.
When I had my shop I had many a graduate come work for me from the big schools and all said they learned a lot that the school did not tell them from me. Yes school is very good but no substantiation for experience!
Every crank builder does not want to tell me much like a person like I is a big threat to there booming business. I have done MUCH research about taking apart, assembling and truing HD pressed cranks and have not found much if anything on this subject. I might be up setting some of the big crank guys but I am getting ready to blow the lid of all of this unless they want to pay me big money to keep my mouth shoot LOL. Good chance if they told me I would not be doing what I am.
I do not like someone like this so I go and figure out how to do it. I have had very little teaching on HDs never been to school but have learned 90% of what I know by doing it and research.
When I had my shop I had many a graduate come work for me from the big schools and all said they learned a lot that the school did not tell them from me. Yes school is very good but no substantiation for experience!
#12
03-19-2013, 12:13 PM
Seasoned HDF Member
Soft 02 I have seen that video and even thaw it tells about the later motor sprocket shaft having to be machined does not give you much information on how to assemble and true the cranks or what they use.
Every crank builder does not want to tell me much like a person like I is a big threat to there booming business. I have done MUCH research about taking apart, assembling and truing HD pressed cranks and have not found much if anything on this subject. I might be up setting some of the big crank guys but I am getting ready to blow the lid of all of this unless they want to pay me big money to keep my mouth shoot LOL. Good chance if they told me I would not be doing what I am.
I do not like someone like this so I go and figure out how to do it. I have had very little teaching on HDs never been to school but have learned 90% of what I know by doing it and research.
When I had my shop I had many a graduate come work for me from the big schools and all said they learned a lot that the school did not tell them from me. Yes school is very good but no substantiation for experience!
Every crank builder does not want to tell me much like a person like I is a big threat to there booming business. I have done MUCH research about taking apart, assembling and truing HD pressed cranks and have not found much if anything on this subject. I might be up setting some of the big crank guys but I am getting ready to blow the lid of all of this unless they want to pay me big money to keep my mouth shoot LOL. Good chance if they told me I would not be doing what I am.
I do not like someone like this so I go and figure out how to do it. I have had very little teaching on HDs never been to school but have learned 90% of what I know by doing it and research.
When I had my shop I had many a graduate come work for me from the big schools and all said they learned a lot that the school did not tell them from me. Yes school is very good but no substantiation for experience!
#13
03-19-2013, 12:18 PM
I agree. This is my first HD and I got all of what I know from years of wrenching on other stuff. I was going to go with RP for my crank work but after much research I decided on R&R cycles. After talking with all the big players I went with my gut. They provide the same services as DH and some say they are a tad better.
Now I have been static balancing Evo and earlier cranks for years and if done properly nothing wrong with it and a damn site better then how HD does it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
#14
03-19-2013, 01:03 PM
Thanks for the clip soft 02, that clarifies some of my thoughts.
Jeff, I understand that the side clearance of the rods has to be correct. What I was trying to understand, is how much space is between the flywheels, that helps determine in my mind how to go about truing the crank, but after watching the video clip and actually seeing the flywheels and the counter balance weight on the inside, it makes it difficult to do much with an adjustable stop, which I was originally thinking.
On another note, I don't use a center fixture for truing and checking runout, I have always used vee blocks on the outer bearing surfaces. It is just that when I learned how to do the 2 cycle cranks, that is what we used, same for automotive.
Jeff, I understand that the side clearance of the rods has to be correct. What I was trying to understand, is how much space is between the flywheels, that helps determine in my mind how to go about truing the crank, but after watching the video clip and actually seeing the flywheels and the counter balance weight on the inside, it makes it difficult to do much with an adjustable stop, which I was originally thinking.
On another note, I don't use a center fixture for truing and checking runout, I have always used vee blocks on the outer bearing surfaces. It is just that when I learned how to do the 2 cycle cranks, that is what we used, same for automotive.
#15
03-19-2013, 01:08 PM
Seasoned HDF Member
Thanks for the clip soft 02, that clarifies some of my thoughts.
Jeff, I understand that the side clearance of the rods has to be correct. What I was trying to understand, is how much space is between the flywheels, that helps determine in my mind how to go about truing the crank, but after watching the video clip and actually seeing the flywheels and the counter balance weight on the inside, it makes it difficult to do much with an adjustable stop, which I was originally thinking.
On another note, I don't use a center fixture for truing and checking runout, I have always used vee blocks on the outer bearing surfaces. It is just that when I learned how to do the 2 cycle cranks, that is what we used, same for automotive.
Jeff, I understand that the side clearance of the rods has to be correct. What I was trying to understand, is how much space is between the flywheels, that helps determine in my mind how to go about truing the crank, but after watching the video clip and actually seeing the flywheels and the counter balance weight on the inside, it makes it difficult to do much with an adjustable stop, which I was originally thinking.
On another note, I don't use a center fixture for truing and checking runout, I have always used vee blocks on the outer bearing surfaces. It is just that when I learned how to do the 2 cycle cranks, that is what we used, same for automotive.
#16
03-19-2013, 01:10 PM
Thanks for the clip soft 02, that clarifies some of my thoughts.
Jeff, I understand that the side clearance of the rods has to be correct. What I was trying to understand, is how much space is between the flywheels, that helps determine in my mind how to go about truing the crank, but after watching the video clip and actually seeing the flywheels and the counter balance weight on the inside, it makes it difficult to do much with an adjustable stop, which I was originally thinking.
On another note, I don't use a center fixture for truing and checking runout, I have always used vee blocks on the outer bearing surfaces. It is just that when I learned how to do the 2 cycle cranks, that is what we used, same for automotive.
Jeff, I understand that the side clearance of the rods has to be correct. What I was trying to understand, is how much space is between the flywheels, that helps determine in my mind how to go about truing the crank, but after watching the video clip and actually seeing the flywheels and the counter balance weight on the inside, it makes it difficult to do much with an adjustable stop, which I was originally thinking.
On another note, I don't use a center fixture for truing and checking runout, I have always used vee blocks on the outer bearing surfaces. It is just that when I learned how to do the 2 cycle cranks, that is what we used, same for automotive.
I have up set a few of the metric bike dealers here in Macon as all they want to do is sell a person a whole new cranks shaft and I saved the customer money by putting in a rod kit. I even had one dealer tell me no one in this area could build cranks and I told them to bring me one with a rod kit and I will build the first one for free. LOL Never heard from them as they make more money selling a customer a new crank.
#17
03-19-2013, 01:22 PM
soft 02 I have watched all their videos but none of them show you pressing and truing them. I have no problem building the rods other then the size of the races same as older engines. I might have to get a bigger manual for my Sunnen machine one of the things I have not checked yet. All so when I install the wrist pin bushings I have a mandrel that expands the bushing after being in installed in to the rod and have never had one spin.
All so many after honing the fit on a cylinder run a ball hone through them which a ball hone is the wort thing you can use as the ball spring back then slap the cylinder. Even many of the factory HD manuals tell you do do this but I will not use one. I have a plateau brush for my Sunnen machine I use and is the best finish you can get.
All so many after honing the fit on a cylinder run a ball hone through them which a ball hone is the wort thing you can use as the ball spring back then slap the cylinder. Even many of the factory HD manuals tell you do do this but I will not use one. I have a plateau brush for my Sunnen machine I use and is the best finish you can get.
#18
03-19-2013, 02:32 PM
Well let us know what you figure out Jeff, I am real interested. I am going to check the crank in my bike this spring, I have the gear drive conversion to install. There is no way I am spending the kind of cash these companies want to true a crank. I believe I can do it, I have enough experience with the small cranks, it obviously just takes more force to move the HD crank. From what I am reading though, it sounds like the crank in my 99 is probably within .001" anyway. Time will tell though.
What are you up to soft 02, are you building a bigger engine, or just making yours bullet proof?
What are you up to soft 02, are you building a bigger engine, or just making yours bullet proof?
#19
03-19-2013, 03:10 PM
Seasoned HDF Member
Well let us know what you figure out Jeff, I am real interested. I am going to check the crank in my bike this spring, I have the gear drive conversion to install. There is no way I am spending the kind of cash these companies want to true a crank. I believe I can do it, I have enough experience with the small cranks, it obviously just takes more force to move the HD crank. From what I am reading though, it sounds like the crank in my 99 is probably within .001" anyway. Time will tell though.
What are you up to soft 02, are you building a bigger engine, or just making yours bullet proof?
What are you up to soft 02, are you building a bigger engine, or just making yours bullet proof?
