The project I'm currently starting involves removing the threaded studs from the right rigid fork leg of my FXSTS. The two studs I speak of are for a keeper clamp for the front hydraulic brake line and the stud that the brake caliper reactor link connects to. My tentative plan is to weld a nut screwed onto the threads and heat up the weldment where the stud is pressed or threaded and hopefully remove it by counterclockwise rotation with a socket wrench. Does anyone know how the studs were installed at the factory or better yet how to remove them without damaging the threads that may be in the weldment.

 

I don't see any way that heating up a weld is going to release that thread. Even if it is brazed and not welded, the amount of heat involved is going to be pretty severe IMHO and will risk ruining your forks. The only practical way to remove the stud is to physically remove the weld, such as with a grinder, or by drilling through it in line with the stud, to defeat the weld.

 

A close look indicates that it's probably brazed due to the brass coloring. Since the two bosses that are already on that right fork leg have endured high heat being arc welded at the factory I'm assuming that you mean by ruining, we're talking discoloration of the chrome plating. While it would be an expense to have it replated, I'd still be willing to do that. I guess the worst scenario would be having to rechrome the fork leg AND drill out the studs. Definitely no glowing bright red heat will be applied to the bosses.

 

No, by 'ruining' I mean reducing the strength of the forks. During manufacture the areas around any welds or brazed joints will have been raised to high temperatures locally, but it is quite probable that the forks were heat treated afterwards, to normalise them. To melt the braze will require heating to around 800 degrees C IIRC, which is red hot. It will be a pretty dodgy trick to remove, even if the braze is successfully melted!

As it is most unlikely that we can ever get from the MoCo details of their manufacturing technique, it would be wise IMHO to use a 'cold' technique to remove those studs. Having thought about it, it would be even more wise to find a local custom or engineering shop who can offer advice on how best to do what you would have in mind.

The main body of your forks is almost 1500 dollars new, so it is worth getting some good advice. Unfortunately there is only the two of us at present, which is a shame!

 

Please keep us up-to-date, as I have the opposite task, if I go ahead. I would like to add the studs to the right side to match the ones on my FLSTS left side rear fork leg. I always wanted a dual disk springer. My understanding is that the whole lower leg is brazed to the upper assembly, so just replacing it with the one from a FXSTS is not a trivial task. If you decide to grind off the studs and their mount, after TIG repair, there was, many years ago, a technique that allowed a local electrodeposition of copper then chrome to the visually offending area.

 

Carlos, in your case you will need access to machining. As with me, a milling machine with a right angle head. You will drill and tap the right rigid fork leg identical to the left as it is currently on your fork. After spot facing where those two holes are drilled in the same location as they are on the left fork, leg you will manufacture spacers that are identical in length and diameter as the weldments are on your left fork leg. I don't see where welding them on to the spot face would be necessary since they are only to provide a flat banking surface for the bracket that will be attached. Manufacturing mirror images of the brake reactor link bracket and the caliper bracket will be your biggest challenge.

 

"Manufacturing mirror images of the brake reactor link bracket and the caliper bracket will be your biggest challenge." I'll just use the ones from a FXSTS which is a right brake Springer. A dual disk wheel might be a challenge. Is the rigid fork leg solid ? I thought they were hollow.

 

The geometry of the brake caliper bracket for the FXSTS is designed to accommodate the narrower fender along with the brake reactor link and its anchor point on the rigid fork. I am installing the wide hooded fender for the 16 inch wheel and tire I installed, that is why I need the profile that is on the left side of the FLSTS. The two 3/8 inch bolts that hold your brake reactor link to its rearward Anchor Point screw into the fork leg three quarters of an inch so yes it would make sense that the fork leg is solid.