swing arm bushings
#1
12-30-2011, 04:26 PM
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Campbellford
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#2
12-31-2011, 05:46 PM
Tourer
I have over 100k on mine and there's no problem with the swingarm.
If I remember right jack up your bike and loosen the top shock bolt and take out the bottom shock bolt. Swing the shocks out of the way. Try to move the wheel side to side, if you get any movement at all the bushings are worn out.
If I remember right jack up your bike and loosen the top shock bolt and take out the bottom shock bolt. Swing the shocks out of the way. Try to move the wheel side to side, if you get any movement at all the bushings are worn out.
#3
12-31-2011, 05:59 PM
Seasoned HDF Member
I replaced mine just for good measure in November at 98,000 miles. You need 2 jacks: one to support the rear of the bike, and one to lift the tranny when you pull the 5/8" pivot shaft out of the tranny mount.
Support the bike and tranny and pull the 2 brackets, ( after removing the rear floorboards.) Loosen the front motor mount.
The pivot shaft is held in place by 2 nuts. The left side nut is welded however, so that's the side that you'll pull the shaft from. If the clevis blocks inside the swingarm are loose or leaking their silicone, remove the rear wheel, pull the swingarm and R&R the blocks, ( or replace them with some excellent aftermarket options.)
Put everything back together, slathering the pivot shaft with Anti-seize when installing it. The brackets have pins that go into slots in the bushings for alignment purposes. Retighten the front motor mount. Ride for several hundred miles and re-check your work the following week.
The newer mounts are stiffer than the ones ( upgraded part,) you'll be replacing. They need to break in and you'll feel some vibration until they do.
With my new bushings in place along with a new Stabo front mount, the handling is like a new bike. ( New for a 2000 that is
)
Support the bike and tranny and pull the 2 brackets, ( after removing the rear floorboards.) Loosen the front motor mount.
The pivot shaft is held in place by 2 nuts. The left side nut is welded however, so that's the side that you'll pull the shaft from. If the clevis blocks inside the swingarm are loose or leaking their silicone, remove the rear wheel, pull the swingarm and R&R the blocks, ( or replace them with some excellent aftermarket options.)
Put everything back together, slathering the pivot shaft with Anti-seize when installing it. The brackets have pins that go into slots in the bushings for alignment purposes. Retighten the front motor mount. Ride for several hundred miles and re-check your work the following week.
The newer mounts are stiffer than the ones ( upgraded part,) you'll be replacing. They need to break in and you'll feel some vibration until they do.
With my new bushings in place along with a new Stabo front mount, the handling is like a new bike. ( New for a 2000 that is
)
Last edited by Stiggy; 01-01-2012 at 02:21 PM.
#5
01-01-2012, 05:56 PM
Former Sponsor
here you go
Pictorial of how to fix any problems you may encounter trying to remove yours. I always get the bastard cases.
FL 1980 Thru 2001 Rear Fork Upgrade
Installation of SwingarmPDF Download
FL 1980 Thru 2001 Rear Fork Upgrade
Installation of SwingarmPDF Download
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