Cam chain tensioner shoes
#1
Cam chain tensioner shoes
Hey folks,
Has anyone had to deal with changing out their cam tensioner shoes yet? If so, is there a way to accomplish this without the lifters and push-rods all having to come out too? I read some-where of someone actually being successful. The skinny of it all would be a big help. Happy mother’s day to all that apply. Stay groovy 😎
Has anyone had to deal with changing out their cam tensioner shoes yet? If so, is there a way to accomplish this without the lifters and push-rods all having to come out too? I read some-where of someone actually being successful. The skinny of it all would be a big help. Happy mother’s day to all that apply. Stay groovy 😎
Last edited by Damaged Goods; 05-12-2019 at 01:16 PM.
#2
I assume this is on your 2011? Have you checked them and determined they need changing? In any event, there is a tensioner in the rear that requires you to pull the cam plate out to do so. Once the plate comes out, the lifters fall down unless you use a magnet to hold them up and keep them from falling. However, in order to use that tool, you have to have the pushrods out. It’s not hard to remove the rockers and pull the rods and then go from there.
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Damaged Goods (05-17-2019)
#3
You could cut the push rods and put in adjustable. Myself I'd probably take tank and off and pull the heads apart as said. Then all you have to do is drop them back in. If enough miles, going this far, I'd put new lifters in too.
Hell if I went this far, I'd replace the bearings in the cam plate and the block.
How many miles you got?
Hell if I went this far, I'd replace the bearings in the cam plate and the block.
How many miles you got?
#4
#5
Hey folks,
Has anyone had to deal with changing out their cam tensioner shoes yet? If so, is there a way to accomplish this without the lifters and push-rods all having to come out too? I read some-where of someone actually being successful. The skinny of it all would be a big help. Happy mother’s day to all that apply. Stay groovy 😎
Has anyone had to deal with changing out their cam tensioner shoes yet? If so, is there a way to accomplish this without the lifters and push-rods all having to come out too? I read some-where of someone actually being successful. The skinny of it all would be a big help. Happy mother’s day to all that apply. Stay groovy 😎
Either way, it's better to do the job the right way and upgrade cams and Bushings.
#6
2011 fxdwg timing chain help
Hey folks,
its Damaged here😎. Got everything dismantled as I’m supposed to on this 11 fxdwg. Just pulled lower-end cover off. I’m looking at timing-chain and have front cyl. piston at TDC on compression stroke. However, the marks aren’t lining up. While using compensater sprocket on my Primary to turn motor which I’ve done several times to check. Same conclusion! TDC on CS and timing marks line up on rear cyl. Is that correct for this bike? I’m so confused. I always thought timing is set to front(#1)cyl? My goal is to pull cam-plate so I can change out these tensioner shoes. I don’t want to do that unless the timing is where it should be. Can I set TDC on CS back to front(#1)cyl then pull sprockets off; pull cam-plate change shoes and reassemble setting timing to #1 cyl or leave where it’s at and proceed? I can’t stand this ocd adhd! Things have to be correct! I love this machine! Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Stay Groovy😎
its Damaged here😎. Got everything dismantled as I’m supposed to on this 11 fxdwg. Just pulled lower-end cover off. I’m looking at timing-chain and have front cyl. piston at TDC on compression stroke. However, the marks aren’t lining up. While using compensater sprocket on my Primary to turn motor which I’ve done several times to check. Same conclusion! TDC on CS and timing marks line up on rear cyl. Is that correct for this bike? I’m so confused. I always thought timing is set to front(#1)cyl? My goal is to pull cam-plate so I can change out these tensioner shoes. I don’t want to do that unless the timing is where it should be. Can I set TDC on CS back to front(#1)cyl then pull sprockets off; pull cam-plate change shoes and reassemble setting timing to #1 cyl or leave where it’s at and proceed? I can’t stand this ocd adhd! Things have to be correct! I love this machine! Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Stay Groovy😎
#7
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Campy Roadie (05-18-2019)
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#9
Thanks for the replies
I do have the manual. And I now understand why the focus is on the rear cylinder. It’s all based on the engineering of the motor. No matter what! Do not deviate from what that book states. Many folks claim ah! You gotta be on #1(front) cyl. No, No, No. Those marks upon your cams and timing sprockets are there in their positions for a reason. The degree of pistons in motor. When those components are lined, then TDC on CS is where it’s designed to be. It’s correct! Valuable lesson learned. Not costly. I appreciate those who replied and helped. Thanks folks. Stay groovy😎
#10
Sorry to get off track a bit. With help from folks and THE MANUAL, took apart what was needed and have the new shoes in. When I have money I’ll change over to the gear-drive. Which isn’t an upgrade. As most know it was an original design Harley used prior. Anyhow, timing-chain and cam tensioner shoe’s are done. Begin re-assembling today so Rolling Thunders Run to the Wall will be made this year. To all other vets I salute you. Stay groovy😎
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