Your bike "feels" slower because the second guy told you he had it running 76/75 after the first guy told you he had it running 79/78.

But it's in your head. You can't feel a tiny difference like that.

There is the possibility that the second tune has the bottom of the RPM range all screwed up, so your torque curve has a sharp slope to it instead of being flat. That will make it feel more sluggish.

 

I think you're splitting hairs. Working with decel settings have very, very little effect whatsoever on any settings above idle throttle position, and therefore have nil effect on overall performance. That's not in any way, shape or form detuning, eliminating decel pop is more properly characterized as part of fine tuning.

Bareass Choppers has some good info in their link, but it isn't an "end all" treatise on decel pop by any means, and some of their statements aren't, in my experience, totally accurate. For instance, in a properly tuned bike, "blipping" the throttle while downshifting should not result in any decel pop (one certainly doesn't normally hear race engines of any type exhibiting a whole lot of decel pop). It certainly doesn't with my bike. Neither does decelerating under light throttle openings. While my bike admittedly isn't dyno tuned yet, it's seen the benefit of quite a bit of autotuning and other tweaking and runs strong and smooth with no indications of running either rich or lean and with only an occasional (and I mean very occasional) burble on decel.

Your quote: "You should be aware that if your map was made or tested on a dyno to work for your bike then you will actually be detuning your bike doing this."

Dyno tuning generally is geared toward optimizing performance, not sound, last time I checked. A dyno tune might not even touch the decel settings in the original map. Tweaking decel settings can't automatically be considered to be "detuning".

The bottom line is, you're assertions don't agree with the experiences of quite a few others, and certainly don't agree with mine.

Done here. Just my couple of pennie's worth, based on my experiences.....

 

I ride with 4 guys that all have motor work done. S&S kits, different cams, some with head work, 4 tuned with TTS and 1 PV. Not one of our bikes decelerations pops. Might be different on a sporty but if my bike deceled popped it would be going back to the tuner. That would be unacceptable .

 

Mine has some decel pop when i get off of it in the upper rpm range, but it's tuned with the HD Street Tuner and I figure it's leaned out up there. Oh well warranty expires in 11 more months, I can live with it that long.

 

Does not a dealer tune by law and Harley's agreement with the EPA give you just a EPA compliant tune ? So where is the improvement over the factory tune ? My vote is go to anyone other than a Dealer , or just do it yourself . The V&H Fuelpak is the easiest to use .

 

Well now wait a minute. You just spent $$$ on a 1200cc kit for your 883, you just spent another $$$ on at least 2 dyno tunes, we tell you that your "big radius exhaust system" is robbing you blind, and you say it's ok?
Well then, ok.

 

Well now wait a minute. You just spent $$$ on a 1200cc kit for your 883, you just spent another $$$ on at least 2 dyno tunes, we tell you that your "big radius exhaust system" is robbing you blind, and you say it's ok?
Well then, ok.

 

+1 on a 2 into 1; other the WFO throttle, a 2 into 1 exhaust will provide better performance for street riding; but if style and sound matter then it's your bike and your money.

The difference, perhaps imperceptible front he seat of the pants could have been due to slight variations in tune or atmospheric conditions from different days.

So much attention is afforded deceleration popping. It is unburned fuel making its way down the exhaust path until it matches with enough oxygen for ignition. On the street it may be, well, annoying but is not, by itself, indicative of a "bad' tune.

 

I agree. Knowing the HP has been decreased creates the false impression in sluggishness. However, I have found that a good washing and waxing [and maybe even an oil change] removes that sluggishness and makes me go faster.

 

Absolute dyno numbers are meaningless junk. A good dyno operator can make the dyno read anything he wants. An inexperienced dyno operator gets whatever meaningless number the dyno spits out.

ETA: The only thing a dyno is good for is comparing differences in the same engine. There is no absolute comparison between two dynos or between two dyno operators. The best you can hope for is to use the SAME dyno, the SAME operator, using the SAME settings with the SAME atmospherics. A good operator will make the dyno read whatever he thinks will bring repeat business.