Tie-downs
#11
10-23-2008, 05:43 AM
Get the chrome tie down brackets from KURYAKYN , they just came out with. They mount permanent on sides of forks. Look great and you don't have to put hooks on handlebars. Under new products , called custom tie down brackets. Had them installed in Myrtle beach bike week, work great. Mark
#12
10-23-2008, 07:36 AM
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Napoleon, OH
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I think it is more important to know the working load and breaking strength of the tie-down.
The D-rings mounted in the trailer floor, backed by a steel plate welded to the frame are rated at 5,000 lbs each. My rule of thumb is that each strap working load is equal to or greater than the bike weight. I use 4 straps going forward, 2 from the lower tripple tree and two from the passenger pegs. I use two staps going to the rear, one from each passenger peg. I replace them every 3-4 years. I have one zippered bag where I store the soft ties and straps. I also carry a couple of spares.
In a panic stop you'll probably pull between 1.2 and 2 g's, so that 850 lb bike is trying exert 1700 lbs of force (at 2 g's) that the wheel chock and rear tie downs have to hold. If the breaking strength is 3 times working load then a 900 lb working load strap will have a BS of 2,700 lbs. In the example the two rear straps will be within their combined working load to keep the bike from moving forward. That gives you 3,600 lbs of reserve strength.
The D-rings mounted in the trailer floor, backed by a steel plate welded to the frame are rated at 5,000 lbs each. My rule of thumb is that each strap working load is equal to or greater than the bike weight. I use 4 straps going forward, 2 from the lower tripple tree and two from the passenger pegs. I use two staps going to the rear, one from each passenger peg. I replace them every 3-4 years. I have one zippered bag where I store the soft ties and straps. I also carry a couple of spares.
In a panic stop you'll probably pull between 1.2 and 2 g's, so that 850 lb bike is trying exert 1700 lbs of force (at 2 g's) that the wheel chock and rear tie downs have to hold. If the breaking strength is 3 times working load then a 900 lb working load strap will have a BS of 2,700 lbs. In the example the two rear straps will be within their combined working load to keep the bike from moving forward. That gives you 3,600 lbs of reserve strength.
Great information:
If i am understanding you correctly, you only have 4 d-rings (2 in front and 2 in back) that you are attaching 8 straps to (2 to each)??
#13
10-23-2008, 11:02 AM
Road Master
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: nc mountains
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I used regular 1/2" eye bolts in the floor but thats me . I do own the best 2" straps i can get. I also have a la chock that i can ride on to and just step away ,no need for any help. I tie off over the lower tree ,does not matter if its a glide or fxr. I also place wood block with some rubber on two sides under the front part of the bikes frame then ratchet the bike down till it makes contact with the block, then make one more click. Now the bike is tight and wiggle free. Then i will get 2 more points on the front ,one is on the inner part of the handlebars if i can and two points at the rear, eather the swing arm or peg mounts but just snug these two straps. Your bike will not bounce or sway. I have watched guys that tie without the center support and there bike are always moveing around a bit. I do use 6 rings to tie to, 4 in the front,2 in the rear. The trailer is plywood or 2X4 in will use a piece of aluminum as a baker under the materail. Just in case. Get a 4" x 12" piece for the middle front. Stop and check after a mile or to then haul butt. Do be sure you have bearing buddies on the axles.
#14
10-23-2008, 11:14 AM
Road Master
I use the HD 2" soft straps on my Kendon Single Trailer. I have 6 tie-down eyes but only use the two rear and two front. I also have the locking front wheel chox set-up from Kendon.
Last edited by snakeinthegrass; 10-24-2008 at 08:33 AM.
#15
10-23-2008, 12:00 PM
I use a couple of short 2" pull straps over my bars and hook my 2" ratchet straps to that. I also loop a pull strap through the rear wheel and cinch down there as well. I had a buddy with an enclosed trailer who didn't tie down the rear and had it slide over to one wall of the trailer during an evasive maneuver and ended up rubbing the hard bags for the next 200 miles... I learned from his misfortune.
#16
10-23-2008, 01:51 PM
I recently bought a utility trailer to haul my bike on trips. I had 6 D-rings installed attached to the trailer frame. Four in front and two in the rear. I have 2 rings on each side about 18 inches in front of the axle and 2 rings (1 one each side) about 1 foot in front of the front axle. I tie them to the handle bars with soft ties and always remove my windshield.
I also have a d-ring on each side just behind my rear foot pegs and I use just hooks on these. I double up on the front ties because the worst case scenario would be that you are going 70 mph down a turnpike with no shoulder to pull off off on and you look in your rear-view morror and one of your only front ties has broken and your baby is bouncing on its side.
Danny
I also have a d-ring on each side just behind my rear foot pegs and I use just hooks on these. I double up on the front ties because the worst case scenario would be that you are going 70 mph down a turnpike with no shoulder to pull off off on and you look in your rear-view morror and one of your only front ties has broken and your baby is bouncing on its side.
Danny
#17
10-23-2008, 02:32 PM
Ultimate HDF Member
+1. Don't over compress your shocks --the bike needs to move. Do not tie down using the handles bars. Triple tree is stronger. Multiple tie downs. I use eight straps per bike to six d-rings in the floor. No straps or hog ties on paint---dulls the paint. You don't want any straps rubbing the paint as the bike works. I don't use hooks with snaps and I always tie my strap tails back on the strap and duc tape all buckles and ratchets and hooks to d-rings. I was told a long time ago that if the bike is tied down right you should be able to pick the trailer up and flip it upside down and the bike would still be where it belongs. After tieing down the bike it should still move up and down with a little side movement. Something else I have seen is a few uninspired people installing d-rings in a plywood floor thinking that this will hold a bike during hard stops or swerves. They are wrong and it will come to haunt them. Use a wheel chock mechanism on the front tire.
I think it is more important to know the working load and breaking strength of the tie-down.
The D-rings mounted in the trailer floor, backed by a steel plate welded to the frame are rated at 5,000 lbs each. My rule of thumb is that each strap working load is equal to or greater than the bike weight. I use 4 straps going forward, 2 from the lower tripple tree and two from the passenger pegs. I use two staps going to the rear, one from each passenger peg. I replace them every 3-4 years. I have one zippered bag where I store the soft ties and straps. I also carry a couple of spares.
In a panic stop you'll probably pull between 1.2 and 2 g's, so that 850 lb bike is trying exert 1700 lbs of force (at 2 g's) that the wheel chock and rear tie downs have to hold. If the breaking strength is 3 times working load then a 900 lb working load strap will have a BS of 2,700 lbs. In the example the two rear straps will be within their combined working load to keep the bike from moving forward. That gives you 3,600 lbs of reserve strength.
The D-rings mounted in the trailer floor, backed by a steel plate welded to the frame are rated at 5,000 lbs each. My rule of thumb is that each strap working load is equal to or greater than the bike weight. I use 4 straps going forward, 2 from the lower tripple tree and two from the passenger pegs. I use two staps going to the rear, one from each passenger peg. I replace them every 3-4 years. I have one zippered bag where I store the soft ties and straps. I also carry a couple of spares.
In a panic stop you'll probably pull between 1.2 and 2 g's, so that 850 lb bike is trying exert 1700 lbs of force (at 2 g's) that the wheel chock and rear tie downs have to hold. If the breaking strength is 3 times working load then a 900 lb working load strap will have a BS of 2,700 lbs. In the example the two rear straps will be within their combined working load to keep the bike from moving forward. That gives you 3,600 lbs of reserve strength.
Last edited by oldairboater; 10-23-2008 at 02:39 PM.
#19
10-23-2008, 08:07 PM
Outstanding HDF Member
I used regular 1/2" eye bolts in the floor but thats me . I do own the best 2" straps i can get. I also have a la chock that i can ride on to and just step away ,no need for any help. I tie off over the lower tree ,does not matter if its a glide or fxr. I also place wood block with some rubber on two sides under the front part of the bikes frame then ratchet the bike down till it makes contact with the block, then make one more click. Now the bike is tight and wiggle free. Then i will get 2 more points on the front ,one is on the inner part of the handlebars if i can and two points at the rear, eather the swing arm or peg mounts but just snug these two straps. Your bike will not bounce or sway. I have watched guys that tie without the center support and there bike are always moveing around a bit. I do use 6 rings to tie to, 4 in the front,2 in the rear. The trailer is plywood or 2X4 in will use a piece of aluminum as a baker under the materail. Just in case. Get a 4" x 12" piece for the middle front. Stop and check after a mile or to then haul butt. Do be sure you have bearing buddies on the axles.
Baxley LA Chock
http://www.baxleycompanies.com/LAChock.html
Condor
http://www.condor-lift.com/products.asp
By blocking the frame, you can crank down on the straps without blowing your front fork seals.
