Tie-downs
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 94
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From: Napoleon, OH
Tie-downs
Hey guys/girls.....Question:
Just purchased a 2009 MTI 6 x 10 trailer and am wondering what are the best (or your favorite) tie-downs out there and why........also, any suggestions on the best way to tie-down would be appreciated. The trailer has 2 sets of 2 d-rings in the floor with a wheel chock 1-foot off the front!
Just purchased a 2009 MTI 6 x 10 trailer and am wondering what are the best (or your favorite) tie-downs out there and why........also, any suggestions on the best way to tie-down would be appreciated. The trailer has 2 sets of 2 d-rings in the floor with a wheel chock 1-foot off the front!
Road Master
Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Milwaukee area
I've not used them, as I don't trailer my bikes, but I've heard great things about the Canyon Dancer.
Road Master
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Log home in SE Michigan full time. Log cabin in east TN, Smoky Mountians part time
asking about types of tie downs on here is like asking what is the best oil to use..... I use 2" Hog ties cynch type...not ratchet... with S hooks on each end with seperate 12" loops. One loop each just above the lower tripple clamp, then s hook loop. Opposite end, s hook to D ring in floor. I also have a D ring in the floor just forward of each passenger foot peg. I use a 1" strap around each passenger peg bracket, both s hooks attach at d ring in floor,..because the straps are to long. I strap the back of the bike from the passenger pegs in a forward position. Does two things keeps pressure in the wheel chock and stabilizes my Street Glide from the potential bounce into the side wall or my buddies SG. Works for me, and dosen't loosen, dosent cost a bundle for special chocks... I have traveled from MI to FL about 8 times and to my cabin in TN about 12 times, never a issue. I have standard removable wheel chocks. Most important is to buy quality straps, my Hd straps are made by ANCRA. I have used this manufacturers straps for 30 years since my dirt bike race days, never have let me down. Dont be affraid toapply some pressure to the front fork springs...it wont blow a seal, wont bend or break anything..."tight" as to have no bounce. You DONT want a bar sticking out your new trailer wall do you??
Last edited by timberland; Oct 22, 2008 at 08:33 PM.
Road Master
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From: Northern California
http://store.rampconnection.com/prod...d=6907&xSec=96
Tourer
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From: Beaver Dam, KY
Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,983
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From: North, Fl
I like the Power Tye, tie downs from PowerTye.com although since owning the Ultra I have only had it in the trailor once in three years. Hope this helps.
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Cruiser
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 213
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From: scotland,pa.
Get the chrome tie down brackets from KURYAKYN , they just came out with. They mount permanent on sides of forks. Look great and you don't have to put hooks on handlebars. Under new products , called custom tie down brackets. Had them installed in Myrtle beach bike week, work great. Mark
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Road Master
Joined: May 2007
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From: Milwaukee, WI
I think it is more important to know the working load and breaking strength of the tie-down.
The D-rings mounted in the trailer floor, backed by a steel plate welded to the frame are rated at 5,000 lbs each. My rule of thumb is that each strap working load is equal to or greater than the bike weight. I use 4 straps going forward, 2 from the lower tripple tree and two from the passenger pegs. I use two staps going to the rear, one from each passenger peg. I replace them every 3-4 years. I have one zippered bag where I store the soft ties and straps. I also carry a couple of spares.
In a panic stop you'll probably pull between 1.2 and 2 g's, so that 850 lb bike is trying exert 1700 lbs of force (at 2 g's) that the wheel chock and rear tie downs have to hold. If the breaking strength is 3 times working load then a 900 lb working load strap will have a BS of 2,700 lbs. In the example the two rear straps will be within their combined working load to keep the bike from moving forward. That gives you 3,600 lbs of reserve strength.
The D-rings mounted in the trailer floor, backed by a steel plate welded to the frame are rated at 5,000 lbs each. My rule of thumb is that each strap working load is equal to or greater than the bike weight. I use 4 straps going forward, 2 from the lower tripple tree and two from the passenger pegs. I use two staps going to the rear, one from each passenger peg. I replace them every 3-4 years. I have one zippered bag where I store the soft ties and straps. I also carry a couple of spares.
In a panic stop you'll probably pull between 1.2 and 2 g's, so that 850 lb bike is trying exert 1700 lbs of force (at 2 g's) that the wheel chock and rear tie downs have to hold. If the breaking strength is 3 times working load then a 900 lb working load strap will have a BS of 2,700 lbs. In the example the two rear straps will be within their combined working load to keep the bike from moving forward. That gives you 3,600 lbs of reserve strength.
Last edited by GT_RoadGlide; Oct 23, 2008 at 01:48 AM.