Poor mans bike lift
#22
could also try something like this.
http://www.sportster.org/tech/rickko-lift/
I know that is the Sportster site, but it should work with othe models as well.
http://www.sportster.org/tech/rickko-lift/
I know that is the Sportster site, but it should work with othe models as well.
I built and used one of those on my '03 Heritage before I broke down and bought a Sears lift. Worked great.
Ratkiller
#24
Good job with the blocks! We had a guy up here who used to hang his bike from the rafters in his garage with a come-a-long to work on it.He never tied it down and used to have to chase it down to work on it !!!!!....It takes all kinds to make the world go 'round !!
#25
Let me throw in the Scroogeomatic patent pending bike tie down and lift system. Call now--operators are standing by!
Take a hammer drill and drill two holes about 5 feet apart in your concrete slab garage floor. Put in concrete anchors that will accept 5/16" eyebolts. With the eyebolts securely anchored in the floor, use tie downs to hold the bike and an ordinary Wallyworld automobile floor jack to raise either end of the bike. It's as stable as the rock of Gibraltar.
When not in use, take out the eyebolts so people aren't tripping over them and put in "set screws" flush with the floor to keep the dirt out of the anchors. I used ordinary 5/16" bolts with the heads sawed off and screwdriver slots cut in their place. If you move, just fill the holes with Porrock and start over at your new residence.
Take a hammer drill and drill two holes about 5 feet apart in your concrete slab garage floor. Put in concrete anchors that will accept 5/16" eyebolts. With the eyebolts securely anchored in the floor, use tie downs to hold the bike and an ordinary Wallyworld automobile floor jack to raise either end of the bike. It's as stable as the rock of Gibraltar.
When not in use, take out the eyebolts so people aren't tripping over them and put in "set screws" flush with the floor to keep the dirt out of the anchors. I used ordinary 5/16" bolts with the heads sawed off and screwdriver slots cut in their place. If you move, just fill the holes with Porrock and start over at your new residence.
#26
A word of caution to Scrooge's post, DO NOT drill into the concrete if you have a tensioned slab, if you were to hit one of the tensioned cables, you would be luck to survive it breaking and whipping out of the concrete.
Here in AZ almost all homes are built on a tensioned slab (no footer, just a floating slab). Drilling, cutting into these slabs is a bad idea.
Here in AZ almost all homes are built on a tensioned slab (no footer, just a floating slab). Drilling, cutting into these slabs is a bad idea.
#28
Safety is the main consideration. While it worked for you this time, I feel it's a matter of time before the bike will tip over. Hopefully, you won't get injured, if/when, it does.
The Sears type ATV/bike jack is $120 and much safer. It will pay for itself, many times over, for you to do your own maintenance, but most of all, if used correctly, will save injury/death.
The Sears type ATV/bike jack is $120 and much safer. It will pay for itself, many times over, for you to do your own maintenance, but most of all, if used correctly, will save injury/death.
#29
could also try something like this.
http://www.sportster.org/tech/rickko-lift/
I know that is the Sportster site, but it should work with othe models as well.
http://www.sportster.org/tech/rickko-lift/
I know that is the Sportster site, but it should work with othe models as well.
#30
Safety is the main consideration. While it worked for you this time, I feel it's a matter of time before the bike will tip over. Hopefully, you won't get injured, if/when, it does.
The Sears type ATV/bike jack is $120 and much safer. It will pay for itself, many times over, for you to do your own maintenance, but most of all, if used correctly, will save injury/death.
The Sears type ATV/bike jack is $120 and much safer. It will pay for itself, many times over, for you to do your own maintenance, but most of all, if used correctly, will save injury/death.
I have one of the Sears jacks and frankly I think the cinder blocks would be more stale at times. That thing tweaks and twists a bit when you crank on a bolt or nut. Also, the rails are a bit slippery and even with the skateboard tape on there it can move. As to "injury/death", I'm just not seeing that one. Worst case is the block crumbles, the bike teetres and you jump out of the way. It isn't like a car where you are laying completely underneath it. I would bet there are very few significant injuries or deaths related to motorcycles falling on someone.
I like simple solution and with the blocks vertical the weight is distributed well and the bike stable. Next time I am changing a stator and have to really crank on the compensating nut I'll be using this system.