:icon_worth y:

 

I'm a firm believer too! Makes the bike feel more refined - better then the rattley draggin stocker that's for sure. On another bike I made my own grips from Alum bar stock and covered them in leather. I also made a small nylon bushing for the inboard side of the grip to eliminate the slop there. Along with the bearings - it was like butta!!!
I'll be adding the bearing to my PM grips this winter.

 

Simply adding a lil lube to the cables does a lot more than some realize.
I'd try that before spending the money that these set-ups cost.

 

It's a 'combo', of all of it, Ed. BUT you would be surprised, at how many peeps, NEVER lube their cables.

 

Some follow-up for any who may be interested.

It's been about a month and several hundred miles with the bearing kit installed. I installed it without cutting the bars, figureing I'd do the cutting later if I like the kit.

For me, I can't really say there is a big difference. The throttle feels a tad smoother and tighter, but it's barely noticeable.
Again, just my opinion. If you're a stickler for detail and need to have everything just right, it's a nice addition.

As for not cutting the bar. That's not really noticable either. At some point in the future, when I got nothing better to do, I may re-do it right. But for now, just leaving it as is.

 

Some people buy wider bars on purpose. I suspected that you could get away without cutting them. I can relate to what you said about being a stickler for perfection. I likely would like them if my budget allowed for that kind of addition. For now the cable lube will have to do.

Thanks for giving us the update!

 

Its only a $15 expense! True you dont have to cut the bars, depending on how comfortable your posture and fit are. I knew someone would come along and say they didnt notice any difference, to each there own.

 

$15 ???? Shoot, I thought it was some kind of kit that cost a lot more.
Please excuse the brain fart.

 

yea, it's a low cost item.

Not trying to put it down in any way. As I said, I think some would find it a nice addition, as bagman does.

It's like looking at two TVs in an electronics store, some will notice a hugh difference, then I may look and see no difference. ??

 

The price has now gone up to $25.

I had a set of fat bars which were too short for the grips anyway and I liked the idea of this. I always put off buying one because I was sure I could make one and I did not want to give Arlen Ness and all the layers of marketing guys growing fat on top of the Chinese sweat shop workers my money.

But, I was lazy and weak and had some spare change in my Paypal, so I bought one. I have come to regret it before I even fitted it.

What a piece of sh*t it is. It must cost about $3 to make at most.

OK, here's what to look out for and here's how to make your own for, say, $5. You can wealth re-distribute directly to China far more generously by spending the other $20 in an Asian massage parlor.

The kit comprises of a;
The 6000RS bearings are 10mm x 26mm x 8mm in size. I guess Cory must have found them in his skateboard box because that's what they are used for, kids skateboards and roller blades. You'll probably have a few kicking around your garage with the rest of the parts.

Now, funnily enough, if you want quality, which these ain't, you can actually buy Koyo replacements (KOYO 60002RS) but they'll cost, say $4. These you can buy from $1 to $2.

So, immediately, here's the problems. Opened the package, you get two polymer hex supposedly to cover a range of handlebars.

Neither fitted my Heritage bars. Both were as slack as to be useless. At that point the kit was going back for a refund.

Next up, one of the hex was so badly centered, I think it would have interfered with a successful operation. It was about a mm/50 thou off centre. This one actually looked second hand, as if someone else had tried to use it first.

I thought there would be more to it, like it was a rubber anchor bolt/well nut working under compression. Nah, it just work by stuffing it tightly in the hole, (see above) but they were so loose it was fall right out. No contact at all.

The biggest hex measures .820" across the points, the smaller .770", and so unless the I/D of your bar is noticeably narrower than one of them, they won't work. My bars are .870". I have a second set of bar which are .810" that could just work with some glue, but I'd say you want smaller still.

Something else to watch for, my chubby bars were actually blanked off 1.2" into the hole, so I'd have to cut down both the hex and the bolt to make them fit.

At that point the whole purpose of just spending the money to save me the time evaporates.

So they're going back before I even had a chance to try them.

Even if you're buying them because you don't have the time or access to machinery, you need to check what you have and consider these foibles.

What do to?
A problem if you don't have access to a lathe. But less time than riding down to the store to get ripped off.

Yes, frog, I think the pricing is just marketing. Enough but set at a level you won't be so p*ssed at if it does not work that you'd bother complaining.