i also just noticed when i turn the ignition on the left directional blinks 6 times. may this me some type of code?

UPDATE: actually its both directionals, six quick flashes

 

The code is that you have a short in your left turn signal circuit. After about six flashes, the fuse blows. Trace the turn signal wiring and you should find it. The tip you got telling you to put in a 5 amp fuse and look for smoke - I would not bother with that. The fuse will blow far sooner than you will see any smoke. Been down that road before. If it is blowing the 15 amp acc fuse, it will certainly blow a 5 amp fuse the second you turn on the key.

 

And then the BREAKER will reset, and pop again, then reset, then pop again...

I've done this many times, but never on a turn signal circuit.

 

Your left turn signal plugs in to the Molex connector just to the right of the radio when you're looking at the front of the bike with the fairing off. Also, next to that is the Molex connector that goes to the switch housing. Unplug one at a time and see what happens.

 

Just as a follow up. Thanks to all for the suggestions and help. After hours of searching I finally gave up. I brought the bike to a local shop which was highly recommended. I forgot to mention that I have lowered the bike a couple inches with lowering brackets. I am vertically challenged and need this to be flat footed. Upon further investigation, the air shocks once checked had exactly 0 lbs of pressure in them. (should I continue or do I look stupid enough already)

The rear tire was bumping up against the top of the fender and in the process shredded just about every wire in the bundle running from the rear to the front. When I stuck my thick head under there to look up, it was to far back to see. The nice gentleman in the shop spent all day making a new harness with 75 thousand wires and had me back on the road by 5pm. Charged me $240 which I thought was more than fair. Thinking the HD dealer would have gotten me for more than double that.

Well I learned my lesson. Check the air shocks occasionally. Again thanks for all the suggestions and help. Just wanted to follow up with what the problem was.

 

Glad you have it solved but if want to pocket $300 bucks the next time, keep reading.

I have electronic courses under my belt but understand how electrical problems can overwhelm a novice, however, it is well worth the while it takes to become comfortable with a multimeter and the basic understanding of how electrons flow from positive to negative. Keep in mind your frame is also connected to the negative side of the battery. Here is a tutorial that should make any novice comfortable if they are willing to educate themselves with an hour of study. Nothing comes free or easy but it really is simple if you have basics:

http://mechatronics.mech.northwester...ultimeter.html

I'm sure there are better tutorials but this was the first google 'hit'.

 

Sorry, only CURRENT flows from Positive to Negative, ELECTRONS flow from Negative to Posiitve...at least that's the way it was when I studied the Physics of Solid State Devices a few eons ago.

 

Someone had posted to look at the last mod done. Right on!

 

Do you have a run/tail/turn thingie? It makes your rear turn sigs running lights and brake lights.If so, might be bogus..

Mark

 

LOL ... okay Bikenator, I'll stand corrected with a disclaimer if we want to get into semantics. Here's a description of why we both think the way we do:

"It turns out that all of the electronic theory works just as well whether you consider that literal movement of electrons from negative to positive or the "positive current" from positive to negative. During the time that I studied electronics in the U.S. Navy, military electronics was taught as "electron flow" (neg to pos), and civilian electronics was taught as "conventional flow" (pos to neg)."

To the novice: don't let these semantics discourage your attempt to understand the basics in the link provided.