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Another stupid question that the manual does not cover.

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  #21  
Old 03-17-2012, 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Dan89FLSTC
Keep in mind that the service manual is written to be a reference for a professional mech. Compared to other aftermarket manuals, the HD manual is miles ahead. It takes a little experience just to learn how to use the manual, it will not spoon feed you.
That makes sense. The Clymer manual for my Vulcan 750 had better illustrations and step by step instructions. The HD service manual assumes you already know where drain plugs are.

Are the http://www.fixmyhog.com/ videos good?
 
  #22  
Old 03-17-2012, 08:06 AM
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Do it how the manual says and use a Rogue Choppers Oil Scavenger to do a complete oil change. I use one and so do lots of other members.
http://www.roguechopper.com/
 
  #23  
Old 03-17-2012, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by S.D.M.F
Do it how the manual says and use a Rogue Choppers Oil Scavenger to do a complete oil change. I use one and so do lots of other members.
http://www.roguechopper.com/
And lots of people don`t use these things, and their engines last just as long.

You will gain nothing by using this doohickey. But the guys that sell them will...

Spend your hard earned money on real tools.
 
  #24  
Old 03-17-2012, 10:01 AM
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Page 99 of my owner's manual shows where the oil tank drain plug is. There is also a parts schematic link I believe at the top of this forum listed in the "stickies" that can help you locate the appropriate plugs also.
 
  #25  
Old 03-17-2012, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by SportsterBob
If you have a drain plug on the engines cases it would be a good move to remove it and check for iron particles on the drain plug if it is magnetic...That is a good barometer for engine wear..You will drain out about 6-8 ounces of oil in the process!
That would be true, except for several points that you have overlooked.
  1. These are dry sump motors, so there will only be an ounce or two that will drip out. Oil doesn't pool at the lowest point as in a wet sump.
  2. The plug is not intended as a drain, nor is it magnetic. There won't be any particles... iron or otherwise.
  3. The plug is not your typical coarse or fine thread. It is a tapered pipe thread, and for that reason, acts like a wedge and easily cracks the case if you overtorque.
 
  #26  
Old 03-17-2012, 11:18 AM
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If you go into the engine part of the manual you will be able to see the way the oil is routed which will help you to understand Harley engines a little better. There is very little oil in the engine when it is running as it only circulates from the oil tank to the oil pump, through the engine, and then to the scavenge side of the oil pump and back to the tank. It is the same system used on radial aircraft engines. The Harley V twinn is basically a 2 cyl. radial.

There are no stupid questions here. This is how we all learn. I was not born with any of this Harley tech.
 
  #27  
Old 03-17-2012, 11:23 AM
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Instead of buying that contraption just buy some cheep oil and after you remove the oil and before you pull the filter run a few quarts off cheep oil to flush the old stuff out then drain and put your desired oil in. Maybe an extra 5 bucks for the cheep oil.
 
  #28  
Old 03-17-2012, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by skratch
i look at it the other way. the manual tells you what you need to do. if it told you all the things that you didn't need to do, it would be a foot thick. if you follow the steps in the manual and don't try to read into it, then you'll be fine.
+1 What he said
 
  #29  
Old 03-17-2012, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by SportsterBob
If you have a drain plug on the engines cases it would be a good move to remove it and check for iron particles on the drain plug if it is magnetic...That is a good barometer for engine wear..You will drain out about 6-8 ounces of oil in the process!
NOT IF YOU HAVE AN IRONHEAD. All you will have is a hell of a mess afterward.
 
  #30  
Old 03-17-2012, 08:54 PM
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Be sure to remove your dipstick & hold your bike upright to get all the oil out of the tank when draining.
 


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