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Drilling Handlebars?

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Old Jan 13, 2021 | 05:02 PM
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Default Drilling Handlebars?

I'm trying to replace the handlebars on my 2018 Fat Boy. I'm installing DNA 1 1/2" "v" shaped apes with a 1" mounting area. I figured because they were 1 1/2" that installing them with the connectors would be easy. Thought wrong. Doing the easy side without the throttle by wire, still using wire lube and string, it got hung up somewhere by the bottom elbow. Seems like before the elbow. Worse, the string has pulled loose trying to work it back and forth. Not that much pressure so maybe welding slag. A micro inspection camera won't fit in the center bottom hole. Obviously in hindsight I should have removed the connectors. I haven't pulled hard enough on the connectors to ruin them yet, I don't think. Short of sacrificing the bars a couple inches at a time until I get close to the connectors, any other ideas? Would drilling 1/2 holes in the bottom of the elbows impact the structural integrity of the bars? They are 1 1/2" in that area. My thinking was I could then insert the inspection camera and see what the wire is hung up on and get it free. Then run the wires after removing the connectors and put rubber plugs in the holes.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2021 | 08:34 AM
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i would not do anything to the bars. you might have to bit the bullet and pull the wires out forcibly and repair them.
a picture says 1000 words. you might be able to go from the other side with a long door spring with the hook cut off and insert a small wood dowel piece to prevent hang up. a plumbing snake is another options to tap on the hung up end.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2021 | 10:48 AM
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Yes pictures would be helpful. Clutch side should have been a breeze with connector removed. Not even sure how you fit the connector in to begin with. Try a long thin screwdriver or flat flexible bar from the Center hole back.
when I did mine I depinned the connectors, slid nylon cable sleeving over wires (smallest diameter you can) greased up the sleeving and pulled thru using 1/16” aircraft cable . Made a noose in both ends of the cable. One to pull on and one to cinch around the wire ends. Also stagger the pin connector ends so they are spread out and not in one lump.
when you get to the throttle side do the two wire bundles Separately. Don’t try and force them thru together.
Good luck
Keep us posted.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2021 | 11:02 AM
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Old Jan 14, 2021 | 02:52 PM
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Believe it or not I bought the 1/16" cable and that seemed to be catching on something going in either direction. Yeah that was a clue. Duh. I used a string tied to a nut and tilted the bar until that fell through and I should have moved to the cable. I didn't, taped the connectors to the string in line with the tape at a point in the front. The only 2 previous bars I've done were a set of FBI easy install and some KST that just drop straight down so I was able to do both with connectors attached. The kst came with the finger trap nylon sleeve stuff but what I had wasn't long enough to use. Is there a local retailer that sells those sleeves without buying 500 feet of it? I'll try the screwdriver or maybe even piece of romex with the sheathing left on. Thanks!
 
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Old Jan 14, 2021 | 03:32 PM
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Auto parts store might have it. I got mine from a car audio shop. Sold it to me by the foot. Was very inexpensive.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2021 | 03:52 PM
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I used bead chain, it dropped through no problem. I pulled the wire though with a string, but I didn't have connectors on the ends.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2021 | 10:23 AM
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Thanks for all the replies. It popped loose last night using a piece of shielded romex. Connectors were fine. I couldn't get 1/16 cable to go through cleanly, but got #16 chain through both sides by tilting the bars, taped 1/16 wire rope and pulled that though. De pinned the connectors taped the left side wires to the cable, lubed it up with wire lube and pulled it through. Didn't go without some catching, but not bad at all.

I'm a little concerned about the throttle side, due to the size of the wires and the size of the sheathing around the throttle by wire. I was going to take it to a local custom cycle builder near me and have them do the throttle side, but they're on winter hours. If I give it a shot, is it better to try to get all the wires through on one lead, or do the throttle and the other controls separately? I doubt the sleeve on the throttle by wire is going to make it through as is, the inside of these bars are definitely not very clean. But slicing the sheathing and taping it tighter against those wires would make it a lot less flexible. I was also thinking of using mason string and taping it the entire length as suggested elsewhere in the forum and obviously leaving the string inside the bars.

Thanks for the help!
 
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Old Jan 15, 2021 | 12:37 PM
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Are you leaving the the original sheathing on and trying to pull that thru? If so that’s a big part of the problem. It’s too bulky. Remove it all and either tightly tape it or better yet nylon cable sleeving. 3/8” for switch wires and 1/4” for TBW.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2021 | 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Weeboy1
Are you leaving the the original sheathing on and trying to pull that thru? If so that’s a big part of the problem. It’s too bulky. Remove it all and either tightly tape it or better yet nylon cable sleeving. 3/8” for switch wires and 1/4” for TBW.
Yes I was. Every time I saw the expandable nylon cable sleeving mentioned I thought people were just using it to pull the wires through. KST includes a piece to do that with their kits. I did end up slicing the TBW on my road glide bars and taped it the entire length which made it pretty non flexible. I can’t find any locally. Would heat shrink tubing work just as well? That’s available locally. And thanks.
 
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