Your stove has (or is supposed to have) an exhaust hood above it to remove cooking fumes and trap grease in the washable filter contained within it. It also draws outside air into the area above the stove burners to be mixed with the exhaust gases that will be vented out. Most stoves don`t produce that much CO to be a concern, but the law states that the contractor/builder who installs the stove must install a hood capable of removing said gases. Your furnace has a flue pipe which takes care of all gases/moisture expelled from the burners. It receives its combustion air from the attic (same as outside air). It doesn`t take much concentration of CO to produce a poisonous effect, especially over a lengthy time in an area which is pretty airtight, like most new homes today. That`s what the regulation mentioned above is for.

 

Contrary to popular belief, CO is ALWAYS a product of "complete" combustion, as there really is no such thing. You can have the most efficient burner ever designed and it will still emit a small amount of CO. CO is heavier than air and will accumulate at very low levels of a confined space. If not removed and allowed to continue its buildup, the level will continue to rise and mix with the existing air in higher concentrations. This is when it becomes very dangerous. It is also odorless, so you won`t notice any effects until you get a headache maybe just minutes before your respiratory system becomes overwhelmed and you pass out. Yellow tips on any flame also indicate higher amounts of CO, and unless vented out will produce the above effect a lot sooner. CO poisoning has been known to have long lasting health effects, some of those becoming permanent. CO takes the place of oxygen in your respiratory system, thus producing other harmful side effects as well.

 

OK...I never knew there was a difference between a stove and torpedo heater as far as CO is concerned.

Good stuff...

 

Two bike in unheated garage now . One of mine and one belongs to a friend . We have had a lot of sub zero days of 25 below and that is not wind chill. Pretty much normal here. Never been an issue. Just plug in battery tender and leave it alone.

 

To the OP. Forget about the weather temperature having any affect on your bike. It doesn't no matter how cold it gets. It's just like a car or any other vehicle that is designed and constructed for outdoor use exclusively. It is almost entirely weather proof. It doesn't need a warm place to stay. The one exception is when a warm temperature (say above 50) follows immediately a sub freezing period. That will cause condensation to form on a bike. Just like a cold beer can does when it gets exposed to a warm humid day in the summer. It will evaporate on its own as long as it's in open air. Not under vinyl or any other non-breathing material. However, there are some metal bike components that can react to the condensation and form rust or corrosion. Any salt presence will accelerate that process. So rest easy. Your bike will be fine. And wait for good weather to ride safely and comfortably. You'll be happy you did.

 

read what it says, ideal burn. it does not say total burn. so yes there will be trace amounts but under normal circumstances, it would take a VERY long time to build up and you would need a pretty sealed up room. since my house is natural gas sourced, i have monitors and NEVER in 47 years has there been an issue. before i used kerosene heater that was pretty clean burning but after a few years, the house took on a smell from it. i have central gas fired unit but use space heater of the fake log type to mainly heat the house. my older central unit was not very thrifty being maybe 60 cents to the dollar, my new unit is 80>90% thrifty but my space heater is near 100%, remember it is flue less. i guess decades of data in your eyes is faulted, but deff not in your favor. i am more worried about radon emissions than co and that isn't very much up on the scale either.

 

you dont need an air tight room to run into problems. it's accumulative in you blood i got sick from it sitting out side. i was a firefighter and i went to a chimney fire one night and a house fire the next day, and worked as a mechanic driving the cars in and out of the shop. all three built up enough co in my blood to make me sick. and if you smoke which i do it build up even faster.

it's been a while but if i remember right it takes like 12 hrs for it to be out of your system. one of my last calls we had a dad and his son die from a 1/4 " hole in a chimney for a gas fired hot water heater . old drafty house and the water heater vented thru the chimney for the house. there was a 6' section of galvanized stove pipe. their bed rooms where on the opposite end of the house. they where complaining of the flu two days before.

 

Carbon Monoxide has never damaged a Motorcycle.

Rust has...

Running a non vented propane heater in a garage will pump moisture into the air.

 

I apologize as this is a bit off-topic
Years ago (maybe 1970's) I remember my parents using a standalone kerosene heater in the house during some cold winters. Wouldn't there be a CO issue with those types of heaters just like there is with propane as mentioned in this thread?

 

Everytime you thaw it out with that propane heater, you're creating a **** ton of moisture both inside and out. Leave it be or run that heater all the time. One or the other. That moisture, inside the engine especially, is waayyy not cool.