2024 Breakout, loose fork stem screw
#11
"Strange things are afoot at the Circle K"🤣
Last edited by 24Breakout; 05-03-2024 at 10:50 AM.
#12
Yeah, Adery don't know the difference between a loose washer and stripped bolt.. I'll admit I've missed stuff like that.
I'm not familiar with this setup but it looks like the same one on dynas. In that case I wouldn't loosen the pinch, tq to spec then tighten the pinch. I'd loosen the pinch a lttle, adjust the center bolt until bearing preload is correct, tighten the pinch, then tq ro spec or even a little less..
As far as the machined surface goes, remove the center bolt and look at the upper part of the steering stem. If it's tight in the upper triple tree, replace the washer and bolt and live with the machined part.. Don't like it? Remove the bolt and washer, dab a little black paint on it..
I'm not familiar with this setup but it looks like the same one on dynas. In that case I wouldn't loosen the pinch, tq to spec then tighten the pinch. I'd loosen the pinch a lttle, adjust the center bolt until bearing preload is correct, tighten the pinch, then tq ro spec or even a little less..
As far as the machined surface goes, remove the center bolt and look at the upper part of the steering stem. If it's tight in the upper triple tree, replace the washer and bolt and live with the machined part.. Don't like it? Remove the bolt and washer, dab a little black paint on it..
#13
Yeah, Adery don't know the difference between a loose washer and stripped bolt.. I'll admit I've missed stuff like that.
I'm not familiar with this setup but it looks like the same one on dynas. In that case I wouldn't loosen the pinch, tq to spec then tighten the pinch. I'd loosen the pinch a lttle, adjust the center bolt until bearing preload is correct, tighten the pinch, then tq ro spec or even a little less..
As far as the machined surface goes, remove the center bolt and look at the upper part of the steering stem. If it's tight in the upper triple tree, replace the washer and bolt and live with the machined part.. Don't like it? Remove the bolt and washer, dab a little black paint on it..
I'm not familiar with this setup but it looks like the same one on dynas. In that case I wouldn't loosen the pinch, tq to spec then tighten the pinch. I'd loosen the pinch a lttle, adjust the center bolt until bearing preload is correct, tighten the pinch, then tq ro spec or even a little less..
As far as the machined surface goes, remove the center bolt and look at the upper part of the steering stem. If it's tight in the upper triple tree, replace the washer and bolt and live with the machined part.. Don't like it? Remove the bolt and washer, dab a little black paint on it..
#14
Appreciate the input! I never had any issue with the bolt/ washer's appearance, only the fact that it was loose. It's all squared away at this point, anyway. It went in for the 1K service the other day, and I made sure that they went over the whole upper fork bracket assembly. Everything's snugged down tight. They found a loose tank mounting bolt as well, which was news to me... so it seems that they actually did go over other critical fasteners once I had brought this one to their attention. Bike's riding/running just fine. 👍
Well in the famous words of Gordo Sarkasmas, "**** happens" . If you look at the design of the steering neck, it's pretty easy for the tree to shift and the washer come loose.. It wasn't setup right at the factory..
#15
Well it seems you are correct, lol...the damn thing is loose again. It's only been ~150 miles since the 1K service where this issue was allegedly addressed. Is this just something I'm just gonna have to live with? It doesn't exactly fill me with confidence. If that bolt adjusts the preload on the bearings, then aren't the bearings loose now too if that bolt keeps backing off enough for the washer to spin? Or does the pinch bolt keep everything where it should be inside the stem once it's tightened to spec? Because the pinch bolt it fine...it's been torqued down tight the whole time.
Last edited by 24Breakout; 05-10-2024 at 10:58 AM.
#16
Well it seems you are correct, lol...the damn thing is loose again. It's only been ~150 miles since the 1K service where this issue was allegedly addressed. Is this just something I'm just gonna have to live with? It doesn't exactly fill me with confidence. If that bolt adjusts the preload on the bearings, then aren't the bearings loose now too if that bolt keeps backing off enough for the washer to spin? Or does the pinch bolt keep everything where it should be inside the stem once it's tightened to spec? Because the pinch bolt it fine...it's been torqued down tight the whole time.
No don't live with it.
Bearing could be loose but there could be a number of reasons why..
Is the bolt baking off or the washer coming loose? Or both?
Yes the pinch bolt keeps should help keep the center bolt tight.
I don't have a service manual for your bike but the setup of the is the same as early TC dynas.
The service manual for dynas sucks on the adjustment.. They say to tighten the pinch bolt then tighten the center bolt until the fall-away is correct.
Center bolt sets the preload on the bearings but should be loctited in place. Also the stem pinch bolt should be tight.. Maybe the hole/stem fit in the tree is off.
I loosen then pinch bolt but still keep it snug on the stem. I then loctite the bolt and set bearing preload, tighten the pinch then snug then snug down the top bolt only a little more..
#17
I would take it back to the dealer and have them look at it.. Ask them questions like, "Is my front end going to fall off?" That might get them going..
No don't live with it.
Bearing could be loose but there could be a number of reasons why..
Is the bolt baking off or the washer coming loose? Or both?
Yes the pinch bolt keeps should help keep the center bolt tight.
I don't have a service manual for your bike but the setup of the is the same as early TC dynas.
The service manual for dynas sucks on the adjustment.. They say to tighten the pinch bolt then tighten the center bolt until the fall-away is correct.
Center bolt sets the preload on the bearings but should be loctited in place. Also the stem pinch bolt should be tight.. Maybe the hole/stem fit in the tree is off.
I loosen then pinch bolt but still keep it snug on the stem. I then loctite the bolt and set bearing preload, tighten the pinch then snug then snug down the top bolt only a little more..
No don't live with it.
Bearing could be loose but there could be a number of reasons why..
Is the bolt baking off or the washer coming loose? Or both?
Yes the pinch bolt keeps should help keep the center bolt tight.
I don't have a service manual for your bike but the setup of the is the same as early TC dynas.
The service manual for dynas sucks on the adjustment.. They say to tighten the pinch bolt then tighten the center bolt until the fall-away is correct.
Center bolt sets the preload on the bearings but should be loctited in place. Also the stem pinch bolt should be tight.. Maybe the hole/stem fit in the tree is off.
I loosen then pinch bolt but still keep it snug on the stem. I then loctite the bolt and set bearing preload, tighten the pinch then snug then snug down the top bolt only a little more..
As for the pre-load setting procedure in the manual, it's seems to be opposite what they tell you to do for the Dyna. Loosen the 3 pinch bolts on the upper tree first, then set the preload, and torque all the pinch bolts to spec last.
Fwiw, they've also done away with measuring fall- away to check the bearings. Instead you get the front tire off the ground, turn the bars all the way left, then pulling from the axel bolt with a force gauge, turn the wheel straight ahead and see what max number you get. Then do the same from the right side. For the Breakout the spec is 10-14 lbs.
I appreciate the input👍... I'll let you know if it continues to be a problem. Crossing my fingers, lol. Ride safe.
Last edited by 24Breakout; 05-11-2024 at 08:14 PM.
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Max Headflow (05-11-2024)
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