Random hard cold starting 2002 Delphi EFI Road Glide
#1
Random hard cold starting 2002 Delphi EFI Road Glide
This is an original bike that probably hasn't had any maintenance to the FI system. No check engine light. I just changed spark plugs. Yesterday it lit on the the fist hit. Sometimes it takes several. It'll light then die. Maybe 4 or 5 times before it continues to run. Been progressively getting worse. Off idle throttle response as always been hesitant. Especially in parking lots and slow speed movements. Maybe related?
Any ideas on where to start? Main concern is the cold start difficulties. Warm start usually okay.
Any ideas on where to start? Main concern is the cold start difficulties. Warm start usually okay.
#2
Let's settle this up front. Have you had bike long and seen it right? If not, how long are you staying on the start button? Mine will do that if I do not hold the button just a tad longer than say a car. These long stroke older open loop two cylinders need both cylinders cleared and firing properly. Just wanting to make sure you are not starting it like some new person that is concerned about hurting the starter. Especially since you have no codes.
If mine does not get going and I let up, the second crank is always longer since I think it gets too much fuel.
If the answer is no and it does not have an aftermarket tuner, remove air filter and open throttle and using a rag with spray throttle body cleaner on the rag carefully clean around the butterfly and the opening. That area is most of the start/idle air and the IAC is the rest. Do not spray *****/nilly in there. The Temperature, IAC and TPS do not like crud washed up into them and then it dries and you have more problems.
Now key off and on and watch the pintol pointer at the top front of the throttle body close and on key on open and set position. If that is OK, check TPS with a volt-ohm meter. If it's the temperature sensor, and the first tow mentioned appear OK, just replace it. It's cheap.
If mine does not get going and I let up, the second crank is always longer since I think it gets too much fuel.
If the answer is no and it does not have an aftermarket tuner, remove air filter and open throttle and using a rag with spray throttle body cleaner on the rag carefully clean around the butterfly and the opening. That area is most of the start/idle air and the IAC is the rest. Do not spray *****/nilly in there. The Temperature, IAC and TPS do not like crud washed up into them and then it dries and you have more problems.
Now key off and on and watch the pintol pointer at the top front of the throttle body close and on key on open and set position. If that is OK, check TPS with a volt-ohm meter. If it's the temperature sensor, and the first tow mentioned appear OK, just replace it. It's cheap.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; 09-17-2017 at 11:58 AM.
#3
Let's settle this up front. Have you had bike long and seen it right? If not, how long are you staying on the start button? Mine will do that if I do not hold the button just a tad longer than say a car. These long stroke older open loop two cylinders need both cylinders cleared and firing properly. Just wanting to make sure you are not starting it like some new person that is concerned about hurting the starter. Especially since you have no codes.
If mine does not get going and I let up, the second crank is always longer since I think it gets too much fuel.
If the answer is no and it does not have an aftermarket tuner, remove air filter and open throttle and using a rag with spray throttle body cleaner on the rag carefully clean around the butterfly and the opening. That area is most of the start/idle air and the IAC is the rest. Do not spray *****/nilly in there. The Temperature, IAC and TPS do not like crud washed up into them and then it dries and you have more problems.
Now key off and on and watch the pintol pointer at the top front of the throttle body close and on key on open and set position. If that is OK, check TPS with a volt-ohm meter. If it's the temperature sensor, and the first tow mentioned appear OK, just replace it. It's cheap.
If mine does not get going and I let up, the second crank is always longer since I think it gets too much fuel.
If the answer is no and it does not have an aftermarket tuner, remove air filter and open throttle and using a rag with spray throttle body cleaner on the rag carefully clean around the butterfly and the opening. That area is most of the start/idle air and the IAC is the rest. Do not spray *****/nilly in there. The Temperature, IAC and TPS do not like crud washed up into them and then it dries and you have more problems.
Now key off and on and watch the pintol pointer at the top front of the throttle body close and on key on open and set position. If that is OK, check TPS with a volt-ohm meter. If it's the temperature sensor, and the first tow mentioned appear OK, just replace it. It's cheap.
#4
Too cool. By the way, that banging is 9 out of 10 times is a bad battery connection or a weak battery from people using maintenance chargers and there is enough voltage from a recent charge but not enough amps to drive thru and keep from kicking an banging the starter sprag drive. It's not a clutch. It's locked up with roll pins until the gas motor is running and actually outruns the starter if you really hold it in too long. Then that fwd motion of the big gear rolls the little starter gear around driving the pins up a ramp out of the drive stop.
Keeps from slinging the armature in the starter apart.
Keeps from slinging the armature in the starter apart.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; 10-08-2017 at 01:12 PM.
#5
Too cool. By the way, that banging is 9 out of 10 times is a bad battery connection or a weak battery from people using maintenance chargers and there is enough voltage from a recent charge but not enough amps to drive thru and keep from kicking an banging the starter sprag drive. It's not a clutch. It's locked up with roll pins until the gas motor is running and actually outruns the starter if you really hold it in too long. Then that fwd motion of the big gear rolls the little starter gear around driving the pins up a ramp out of the drive stop.
Keeps from slinging the armature in the starter apart.
Keeps from slinging the armature in the starter apart.
Interesting. Got it! I swear knowledge is better then ***** some times! I'm pretty meticulous and have an eletrical background. All my connections are clean and I don't use a maintenance charger. I did have some voltage drop in the solenoid circuit, but I cleaned that up. Was just a dirty fuse. It cranks fine.
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