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SERT pro Ve tables

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  #1  
Old 01-16-2018, 06:57 PM
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Default SERT pro Ve tables

I
I’ve taken my 2013 103” to a 107” with heads and TB done and woods 777 cams. I had the stage 2 on the bike with a tuned map by logging miles on the SERT. I’m looking to put a map in that more resembles the woods 777 cam and what I’m coming up with is map 044SDW001 (SE stage4 , Big bore cylinders, 10.5:1 pistons, ported heads and race exhaust.) my question is the Ve tables in my self tuned map are a lot higher in most cells. Should I just run it from my current map and try to put some break in miles on it until the weather breaks here and I can get it tuned?
 
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Old 01-17-2018, 12:44 PM
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When comparing these two calibrations. More things need to be look at besides just VE values. Engine displacement, and injector size will have influence over these numbers. There are also other hidden tables that can effect VE tables. BUT besides VE tables, that would be the least of my concern because they are the easiest to adjust, I would also be concerned that the spark tables are correct for the compression and cam. They are harder than mapping VE's, and can really make or break a build.
 
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Old 01-19-2018, 06:21 PM
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I’m looking to do a tuning run with maybe a map that’s closer with the cam intake and exhaust so I can put some miles on the bike before it goes to the dyno to get tuned.
 
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Old 01-20-2018, 08:53 AM
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I'd run the VEs from your self tuned map, it's more than likely the most accurate way your engine breathes
 
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Old 01-20-2018, 03:56 PM
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If I am reading this right, you made VE tables for your 103, and want to use them on your new motor?
Forget it! Your new motor will breath completely differently.

I am no expert, but my best advice is to talk to your tuner and ask them what you should start with.
Also ask them how they would prefer you to break it in.

Having said that, as hrdtail79 said, there is a lot more that goes into tuning. There is also a lot of information missing. You said you upgraded TB, but did you also upgrade the injectors? Will they match the injectors in the Stage IV tune? You said you are using the SERT Pro? What exhaust?

We also don’t know how you came about to choose that calibration.

Although I am somewhat familiar with the SERT, I have never used it. I am much more familiar with the PV, but tuning basics are the same. So I am not sure if some of the tables hrdtail79 talked about are available to you on the SERT.

No mater what tune you choose, unless your build is exactly as what the tune was made from (IE. displacement, injectors, cams, intake, exhaust, valves, heads, etc.) it will need to be modified to run correctly, and even if it was, will probably still need some tweaking.

What I noticed of your choice:
(and would welcome some of the experts to feel free to correct me)

The cam: from what I can see, the IVO/IVC settings for the cam should be really close, if not the same. Should be OK to start off with.

Spark: The Stage IV is set up with a little lower compression then what yours is. It is probably on the conservative side as far as the spark tables, so it may be all right to start off with. Just keep an eye out for any spark-knock. (You should be logging your tuning runs.)

Displacement: The Stage IV tune should be set up with slightly more displacement then what you have, so it should be usable. Depending on your exact build, it may even have to be increased. Keep an eye on your VE tables as you run your tunes to see if they stay within acceptable parameters.
(the VE tables will need to be changed if you adjust the displacement. If some cells in the VE tables are maxing out, raise the displacement a little, if they are in the toilet, lower the displacement a little. Then run some more tuning sessions.)

Injectors: That is going to be important. Are your injectors the same size as the ones in the Stage IV kit? If not, can you change the setting to match yours?

VE tables: they will definitely have to be adjusted, but as hrdtail79 said, they are the easiest to adjust through tuning runs.

There are numerous other tables that effect such things as how the bike starts at given temps, how it idles, when it alters spark, how it alters spark, how much fuel it delivers, when and how it alters fuel delivery, parameters of when it goes into closed loop, etc.

Not withstanding my initial advice, hey, if the bike starts with that tune, I would try it.
.
 
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Old 01-21-2018, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by IKnowNot
If I am reading this right, you made VE tables for your 103, and want to use them on your new motor?
Forget it! Your new motor will breath completely differently.
No. I know it’s going to breath more air with the heads and TB



[/QUOTE]Having said that, as hrdtail79 said, there is a lot more that goes into tuning. There is also a lot of information missing. You said you upgraded TB, but did you also upgrade the injectors? Will they match the injectors in the Stage IV tune? You said you are using the SERT Pro? What exhaust?[/QUOTE]

TB was ported to match the headeork, stock injectors, map I posted uses 50mm TB with stock injectors as listed when I open the map. Exhaust is V&H true dual with RCXaust 4” mufflers

[/[/QUOTE]We also don’t know how you came about to choose that calibration.[/QUOTE]

From the limited maps available from the SEPRT this map is the closest but it has no cam listed shows 1690 stage IV w/ 50mm TB. SE stage IV kit, heavy breather, big bore cylinders, 10.5:1 pistons, CBC ported heads and race exhaust I am just assuming it is mapped for SE 259 CAMS



[/QUOTE]The cam: from what I can see, the IVO/IVC settings for the cam should be really close, if not the same. Should be OK to start off with.[/QUOTE]

That’s what I thought but just wanted a second opinion.
 
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Old 01-21-2018, 11:06 AM
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IME, there really is no good way other than trial and error to get a base calibration that seems to run somewhat happy...at least good enough to get it to a tuner to assure fueling AND timing are safe for breakin miles.
IME, DO NOT try to put miles on a new build without first assuring fuel and timing are safe.
IMO, it is way better to get the bike to a competent tuner to be broken in and tuned BEFORE going out on the street with a calibration picked from a “dart board”.
I have seem many perfectly good new performance builds that have been hurt (ie: scored cylinder walls) due to a repair shop telling the customer to put 500 miles on the engine before getting it on a dyno. Only way I would recommend that is if it was a “cookie-cutter”(cams, heads, pistons, intake, injectors, and exhaust) build including exactly the same exhaust.
Due to so many production variables it will be pure luck to pick a calibration that provides a good enough, no safe enough, calibration for reliable breakin without damage.
Bob
 

Last edited by FLTRI17; 01-21-2018 at 11:09 AM.
  #8  
Old 01-21-2018, 11:54 AM
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Now, you don't have to scare OP as well. If the map is close enough with similar cams and piston type, than loading that particular mapping and starting up will not damage the engine. As the OP will ride, the VE tables can be adjusted accordingly as the breaking-in proceeds.
The EMC adjust's the combustion process continuously on the fly. It's not that the loaded map is the only setting that will used. The loaded map is the base map, the EMC is able to work with range up to 10+ % of that basemap, And together with knock sensing the engine has build in protection as well.
After the first ride check loggings, that will give you the first indication what needs to be changed in the VE-tables.
Try to understand what happens in the process, it will make the tuning process less abstract and it is certainly not something that one should be afraid of when understood.
 
  #9  
Old 01-21-2018, 04:24 PM
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I believe it is important to not hold any steady state during break in mile. Constantly changing rpm, while keeping the rings loaded, bring the best ring seal.


The exact opposite of what is needed for ECM "adjustments."
 
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