TC88, '01, Cam sensor symptoms? Check engine, hard start, MM
#1
TC88, '01, Cam sensor symptoms? Check engine, hard start, MM
Hi, guys!
I read dozens of similar topics, but there is no answer.
FLHTCUI 01 , 61000miles... MM =))
There are problems with the start. The fuel pump works, the starter too. The motor does not spin. The problem began six months ago from bad starts. You can press for a long time on the starter button for 20 seconds and barely barely start up. Now it does not start at all. I stalled when I started moving with a cold engine, I got on to check the engine, and could not start anymore. Dismantled the PC5 and nothing has changed.
Diagnostic errors (odometer) showed nothing, but when reading errors on the computer, they saw the following:
35 Tachometer Short Circuit/Voltage Low
42 Cam Sensor Short Circuit To Battle
What I checked:
- the wires going to the sensors are visually intact, but in places in the bunch are tight.
- sensor connectors are clean
- changed the crankshaft sensor - no result
- changed the speed sensor - no result
- changed the map sensor - no result
- replaced the grid filter in the tank - no result
- fuel nozzles in the tank intact
- spark plugs - no result
- TPS is good, because adequate reaction to throttle.
- I did not change the engine temperature sensor, because he holds idle perfectly if the motor works.
When it was possible to start the motor, during operation, I turned off the cam sensor - there is no reaction, the crankshaft - immediately stalled.
Gasoline is good
The battery is good
The filter of thin fuel cleaning MANN MWK44 changed 7 years ago, but I drove only 18,000 miles.
The wiring near the fuel tank to windshield is a goose neck, I did not check.
The motorcycle periodically can starts and even drive, but then it appeared to check the engine (but disappears). The idle speed of the engine holds perfectly! Gas reacts perfectly to the handle! But, if on a heated motor to sharply twist up to 4000 revolutions, then check the engine and the revolutions fall and it stalls. It can starts and run about 15 minutes on idle but won't start after 10 minutes.
Now errors from the computer have been erased and there are no new ones. What could it be?
Is the cam sensor? Or damage to the wiring - a goose neck?
Someone wrote about damage to the ECM connector, I recently set PC 5. But, I do not think that the reason is in it. Visually, everything is smooth there.
ps The cam sensor is very rare parts, so I cannot change it as soon as possible. I already ordered it and wait for a long time ...
Thank you all in advance!
UPD A very interesting case ... It may really change the engine temperature sensor.
I read dozens of similar topics, but there is no answer.
FLHTCUI 01 , 61000miles... MM =))
There are problems with the start. The fuel pump works, the starter too. The motor does not spin. The problem began six months ago from bad starts. You can press for a long time on the starter button for 20 seconds and barely barely start up. Now it does not start at all. I stalled when I started moving with a cold engine, I got on to check the engine, and could not start anymore. Dismantled the PC5 and nothing has changed.
Diagnostic errors (odometer) showed nothing, but when reading errors on the computer, they saw the following:
35 Tachometer Short Circuit/Voltage Low
42 Cam Sensor Short Circuit To Battle
What I checked:
- the wires going to the sensors are visually intact, but in places in the bunch are tight.
- sensor connectors are clean
- changed the crankshaft sensor - no result
- changed the speed sensor - no result
- changed the map sensor - no result
- replaced the grid filter in the tank - no result
- fuel nozzles in the tank intact
- spark plugs - no result
- TPS is good, because adequate reaction to throttle.
- I did not change the engine temperature sensor, because he holds idle perfectly if the motor works.
When it was possible to start the motor, during operation, I turned off the cam sensor - there is no reaction, the crankshaft - immediately stalled.
Gasoline is good
The battery is good
The filter of thin fuel cleaning MANN MWK44 changed 7 years ago, but I drove only 18,000 miles.
The wiring near the fuel tank to windshield is a goose neck, I did not check.
The motorcycle periodically can starts and even drive, but then it appeared to check the engine (but disappears). The idle speed of the engine holds perfectly! Gas reacts perfectly to the handle! But, if on a heated motor to sharply twist up to 4000 revolutions, then check the engine and the revolutions fall and it stalls. It can starts and run about 15 minutes on idle but won't start after 10 minutes.
Now errors from the computer have been erased and there are no new ones. What could it be?
Is the cam sensor? Or damage to the wiring - a goose neck?
Someone wrote about damage to the ECM connector, I recently set PC 5. But, I do not think that the reason is in it. Visually, everything is smooth there.
ps The cam sensor is very rare parts, so I cannot change it as soon as possible. I already ordered it and wait for a long time ...
Thank you all in advance!
UPD A very interesting case ... It may really change the engine temperature sensor.
Last edited by Unheilig; 06-25-2022 at 03:52 PM.
#3
Look to see if the Idle Speed Control Motor (mounted to top of throttle body) moves the throttle plate in and out when you initially turn on the igntion switch with the run switch on (not start engine) and when you turn it off. Look to see if the nut on the end of the shaft is intact with the lock tab.
This has never happened before. There is an assumption that I could break it with my hand when I was setting up idle. Is it possible? Or is he very reliable?
I disconnected several times the connector itself, it is clean, but inside where it is inserted by a paste for electric circuits. It doesn't look like dirt or water.
Today I checked:
- goose neck wiring, cut the rubber sheath and all the wires are in perfect condition, including near the ECM.
- spark is OK!
I even managed to start the engine, but it worked a little and stalled. Check the engine has turned on.
I had to turn up the throttle so that it wouldn't stall. Today I didn't see check the engine at high revs.
Last edited by Unheilig; 06-26-2022 at 02:22 PM.
#4
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Then Wisconsin, now North Carolina
Posts: 3,176
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I want to say that I noticed that the idling speed control actuator sometimes does not move when the ignition switch is turned on.
This has never happened before. There is an assumption that I could break it with my hand when I was setting up idle. Is it possible? Or is he very reliable?
I disconnected several times the connector itself, it is clean, but inside where it is inserted by a paste for electric circuits. It doesn't look like dirt or water.
Today I checked:
- goose neck wiring, cut the rubber sheath and all the wires are in perfect condition, including near the ECM.
- spark is OK!
I even managed to start the engine, but it worked a little and stalled. Check the engine has turned on.
I had to turn up the throttle so that it wouldn't stall. Today I didn't see check the engine at high revs.
This has never happened before. There is an assumption that I could break it with my hand when I was setting up idle. Is it possible? Or is he very reliable?
I disconnected several times the connector itself, it is clean, but inside where it is inserted by a paste for electric circuits. It doesn't look like dirt or water.
Today I checked:
- goose neck wiring, cut the rubber sheath and all the wires are in perfect condition, including near the ECM.
- spark is OK!
I even managed to start the engine, but it worked a little and stalled. Check the engine has turned on.
I had to turn up the throttle so that it wouldn't stall. Today I didn't see check the engine at high revs.
With the PowerComander software you should be able to move the throttle slowly throughout it's range and see that the TP reading sweeps consistently and does not drop out. The best way would be with a HD scan tool or tuner software, but the PowerCommander looks at the TP so that will be good enough to know if there is a dead spot in the sensor.
Once the bike is started you can disconnect the cam sensor and it will run - if you disconnect the crank it will die just like your results.
one question though. Did the ECM get water in it from the connection of the powercommander?
Last edited by Ed Ramberger; 06-26-2022 at 05:59 PM.
#5
#6
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Then Wisconsin, now North Carolina
Posts: 3,176
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Wait 20 seconds after turning off for system to reset before turning on again and repeating test.
note- this will not cure a cam sensor code. Code 42 is intermittent or no signal from cam sensor.
#7
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#8
omg
The battery was charging all night. It was dismantled from a motorcycle. The motorcycle started right away. No, check the engine. Everything works. Touching the TPS, idle speed motor sensor wires does not give any reaction. The idle speed motor is moving. Yesterday I pulled out all the connectors in the wind fairing to check the main bundle of wires, also pulled out the cable to the ECM. I drove a couple hundred meters without any problems.
I don't understand what it was.
The battery was charging all night. It was dismantled from a motorcycle. The motorcycle started right away. No, check the engine. Everything works. Touching the TPS, idle speed motor sensor wires does not give any reaction. The idle speed motor is moving. Yesterday I pulled out all the connectors in the wind fairing to check the main bundle of wires, also pulled out the cable to the ECM. I drove a couple hundred meters without any problems.
I don't understand what it was.
#9
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Then Wisconsin, now North Carolina
Posts: 3,176
Received 889 Likes
on
623 Posts
omg
The battery was charging all night. It was dismantled from a motorcycle. The motorcycle started right away. No, check the engine. Everything works. Touching the TPS, idle speed motor sensor wires does not give any reaction. The idle speed motor is moving. Yesterday I pulled out all the connectors in the wind fairing to check the main bundle of wires, also pulled out the cable to the ECM. I drove a couple hundred meters without any problems.
I don't understand what it was.
The battery was charging all night. It was dismantled from a motorcycle. The motorcycle started right away. No, check the engine. Everything works. Touching the TPS, idle speed motor sensor wires does not give any reaction. The idle speed motor is moving. Yesterday I pulled out all the connectors in the wind fairing to check the main bundle of wires, also pulled out the cable to the ECM. I drove a couple hundred meters without any problems.
I don't understand what it was.
You should get the battery load tested. Next time you have any issues, battery condition and connections are always one of the first basic checks. I am glad you made progress!
#10
Ed, thank you so much for your help and info! =)
Today I plan to ride a dynostand. We'll see. The most amazing thing is that I tested the battery at the beginning of the season with a smart tester who said ok.
The battery Deka ETX30l is only 2 years old, but during this time there was 1 deep discharge when the motorcycle stood motionless for a month in the summer.
ps
It was a bit funny and insulting to lose 2 months if the reason is really in the battery. I have already ordered a cam sensor.
Today I plan to ride a dynostand. We'll see. The most amazing thing is that I tested the battery at the beginning of the season with a smart tester who said ok.
The battery Deka ETX30l is only 2 years old, but during this time there was 1 deep discharge when the motorcycle stood motionless for a month in the summer.
ps
It was a bit funny and insulting to lose 2 months if the reason is really in the battery. I have already ordered a cam sensor.
Last edited by Unheilig; 06-28-2022 at 12:34 AM.