Garage Door Opener Kit
#1
Garage Door Opener Kit
I installed the garage door opener kit this weekend. To anyone that is too lazy to get off their bike to key in the code on the garage door keypad, this will be an amazing addition for your ride.
I have only used it a few times, but I can tell you I will love this addition for many years to come.
I have only used it a few times, but I can tell you I will love this addition for many years to come.
#3
RE: Garage Door Opener Kit
Glad you like the HD kit. I opted for doing a mod on a GD opener I already had.Heres a link if anyone new wants to try it.
GD opener
I don't know anything about this one but looks interesting.
GD opener 2
GD opener
I don't know anything about this one but looks interesting.
GD opener 2
#4
#5
RE: Garage Door Opener Kit
Your gonna have to put the GD opener in the lite bucket so just tap into the hi beam wire in there. I stripped it back a bit and soldered a wire with an in-line fuse holder fused at about 1/2 amp. Just in case.
If you don't want to splice into the factory wires you can get a new head light harness plug at any auto parts place and add male spade connectors to plug back into the factory harness. Tap in to the new harness.
If you don't want to splice into the factory wires you can get a new head light harness plug at any auto parts place and add male spade connectors to plug back into the factory harness. Tap in to the new harness.
ORIGINAL: eunrein
Thinking of wiring in my own garage door opener transmitter on a 2006 Deluxe, can anyone tell me where the Harley garage opener kit actually taps into the Hi Beam switch at?
Have the service manual, but it really is not showing anything.
Thinking of wiring in my own garage door opener transmitter on a 2006 Deluxe, can anyone tell me where the Harley garage opener kit actually taps into the Hi Beam switch at?
Have the service manual, but it really is not showing anything.
#6
RE: Garage Door Opener Kit
Another solution that I have used for years: www.motofx.com
Less expensive than HD and is the exact same technology.
Toad
Less expensive than HD and is the exact same technology.
Toad
#7
RE: Garage Door Opener Kit
Try this & don't even buy the H/D opener:::
Items needed:
12 volt garage door opener
6 to 9 feet of wire: 16 - 18 gauge (2)
Wire Taps: 14-18 gauge - Blue (2)
Electrical Tape
Pull Ties (6)
Double Sided Tape (padded type) or velcro
Tools Needed:
Crimper or Pliers
Wire cutter / stripper
Phillips Screw Driver
Optional: Soldering Kit
Optional: Drill for running the wires through the remote door opener case
Time Required: 30 minutes
Please note: I am using "onclick" commands for some links in this site that some pop-up blockers block, if you click on a link and nothing happens your pop-up blocker blocked it. You will need to allow pop-ups to see those links. (I do not allow any ads, so don't worry).
warning: opening your remote may void the manufacture warranty and can cause electrical shock. I am not responsible for any damage you may cause to yourself, motorcycle or remote. This guide is for informational purposes only.
Fact lesson on how the remote garage door opener works:
When you press the garage door remote button, it is a switch that connects the remote with the power to send a signal to operate (open/stop/close) the garage door.
What are we doing:
We are going to reverse the process so that the "switch" is always on and the power is used (as a switch) to send the signal to open the garage door.
FOR EXAMPLE:
Remote with battery: Power source (battery) is always there, button is pressed to send the signal
Remote hard-wired to HI-beam: The button is by-passed with a wire that "shorts" the remote to always on "pressed" and the power (HI-Beam) is used to control when the signal gets sent.
If you are unsure how this works try this at home.
Open the remote so you can access the battery, take out the battery, then press "hold" the button down on the remote. With the button held down put the battery back in. Your door will open.
The Remote battery is replaced by hard-wiring (tapping) into the HI-Beam wire which is controlling when the signal is being sent.
NOTE: For those that like to run the HI-beam 24/7 you can choose to connect it to the LO-beam wire instead of the HI-beam wire. When the HI-beam is on no juice is sent to the LO-beam, when the LO-beam is on no juice is sent to the HI-beam, so either way will work.
NOTE:If you have DUAL HEADLIGHTS you will need to test your LO-Beam to check if it is a FULL-TIME LO. Flick the HI-Beam, if the LO does not switch to HI you cannot run this mod off your LO - it has to be installed on your HI.
The below picture shows you schematic on how it's connected, followed by details for installation on a Ninja 250. This can be applied to all motorcycles with a 12 volt battery. You just need to find the HI-beam (or LO-beam) and ground wires, the installation is the same.
How it works when connected to the HI-beam wire:
You approach the garage door, flick the HI-beam switch the door will open. If the HI-beam is already on you will need to flick it to LO then back to HI, the door will open. If you flick it back to LO then to HI while the door is opening the door will stop. If you flick it back to LO then to HI while the door is stopped the door will close.
WARNING: Before you begin make sure your remote is 12 volts. Most key-chain type remotes are 12 volts (the battery will state the volts) If you have a remote that uses a 9 volt (RECTANGLE) battery you cannot hard-wire the power - it WILL damage (fry) your 9 volt remote and make it useless.
For a 9 volt remote you have 2 options:
1. Get a 12 volt remote: try Carper Remote Replacements - make sure it is compatible with your door opener.
2. Regulate the 12 volt Hi-Beam output for your 9 volt remote. This how-to does not cover that.
Step 1: Shorting the remote (by-passing the button so it's always on "pressed")
There are two ways this can be done WITH SOLDERING or WITHOUT SOLDERING. Soldering is stronger but it can be
Items needed:
12 volt garage door opener
6 to 9 feet of wire: 16 - 18 gauge (2)
Wire Taps: 14-18 gauge - Blue (2)
Electrical Tape
Pull Ties (6)
Double Sided Tape (padded type) or velcro
Tools Needed:
Crimper or Pliers
Wire cutter / stripper
Phillips Screw Driver
Optional: Soldering Kit
Optional: Drill for running the wires through the remote door opener case
Time Required: 30 minutes
Please note: I am using "onclick" commands for some links in this site that some pop-up blockers block, if you click on a link and nothing happens your pop-up blocker blocked it. You will need to allow pop-ups to see those links. (I do not allow any ads, so don't worry).
warning: opening your remote may void the manufacture warranty and can cause electrical shock. I am not responsible for any damage you may cause to yourself, motorcycle or remote. This guide is for informational purposes only.
Fact lesson on how the remote garage door opener works:
When you press the garage door remote button, it is a switch that connects the remote with the power to send a signal to operate (open/stop/close) the garage door.
What are we doing:
We are going to reverse the process so that the "switch" is always on and the power is used (as a switch) to send the signal to open the garage door.
FOR EXAMPLE:
Remote with battery: Power source (battery) is always there, button is pressed to send the signal
Remote hard-wired to HI-beam: The button is by-passed with a wire that "shorts" the remote to always on "pressed" and the power (HI-Beam) is used to control when the signal gets sent.
If you are unsure how this works try this at home.
Open the remote so you can access the battery, take out the battery, then press "hold" the button down on the remote. With the button held down put the battery back in. Your door will open.
The Remote battery is replaced by hard-wiring (tapping) into the HI-Beam wire which is controlling when the signal is being sent.
NOTE: For those that like to run the HI-beam 24/7 you can choose to connect it to the LO-beam wire instead of the HI-beam wire. When the HI-beam is on no juice is sent to the LO-beam, when the LO-beam is on no juice is sent to the HI-beam, so either way will work.
NOTE:If you have DUAL HEADLIGHTS you will need to test your LO-Beam to check if it is a FULL-TIME LO. Flick the HI-Beam, if the LO does not switch to HI you cannot run this mod off your LO - it has to be installed on your HI.
The below picture shows you schematic on how it's connected, followed by details for installation on a Ninja 250. This can be applied to all motorcycles with a 12 volt battery. You just need to find the HI-beam (or LO-beam) and ground wires, the installation is the same.
How it works when connected to the HI-beam wire:
You approach the garage door, flick the HI-beam switch the door will open. If the HI-beam is already on you will need to flick it to LO then back to HI, the door will open. If you flick it back to LO then to HI while the door is opening the door will stop. If you flick it back to LO then to HI while the door is stopped the door will close.
WARNING: Before you begin make sure your remote is 12 volts. Most key-chain type remotes are 12 volts (the battery will state the volts) If you have a remote that uses a 9 volt (RECTANGLE) battery you cannot hard-wire the power - it WILL damage (fry) your 9 volt remote and make it useless.
For a 9 volt remote you have 2 options:
1. Get a 12 volt remote: try Carper Remote Replacements - make sure it is compatible with your door opener.
2. Regulate the 12 volt Hi-Beam output for your 9 volt remote. This how-to does not cover that.
Step 1: Shorting the remote (by-passing the button so it's always on "pressed")
There are two ways this can be done WITH SOLDERING or WITHOUT SOLDERING. Soldering is stronger but it can be
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