Does anyone know how to bypass the Bank Angle sensor wiring in a twin cam engine? Im in process of wiring up a softail frame with a 00 twin cam engine. Its going to be carbureted W/ single fire ignition system/ using a DYNA ignition. I posted in the custom section but thought I would post here to. Thanks all.

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The bank angle takes a high voltage and cuts it down to a low voltage - the ignition coil uses a low voltage as a signal to operate - not tipped. When the sensor is activated, voltage goes higher and that is the signal not to operate. Some guys have used resistors - if you look at the wiring, you can make a bypass with a diode.

 

Thanks One_Screamin_Eagle, I apreciate the advice. I will look into doing that. Diode huh, using a restistor would just keep the voltage low @ all times, So to be able to bypass the circuit /angle sensor entirely with a loop wire? Thanks agian to the replay.

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A resister doesn't drop voltage, it drops current. A diode allows current to flow in one direction and not the other. Using either one of these independently or together will not accomplish what is suggested.

As mentioned in the other thread, I believe it is a 5 volt signal. If you want to try to bypass it, you will need a 5 volt power source. Building such and item will likely be larger than the BAS. It will also need to be built to withstand the adverse conditions associated with being on a motorcycle. Hate to sound like a broken record but the BAS is already built to these standards and will be reliable. It would be very easy to mount the small BAS near the ignition module and have minimal amounts of wires to run.

If you still want to build something that supply the signal, I would suggest using a LM7805 voltage regulator. You will also need a current limiting resister on the output. A 100k 1/4 watt resister should work. You will need to make 3 connections to the device, ground, 12 volts and signal to the ignition module. BTW, they are the same connections you would make to a BAS.

Here is a bike build that I did exactly what I am suggesting. https://www.hdforums.com/m_242003/tm.htm

Here is a picture of the wiring when completed. The BAS is located on the back of the battery box. You can see the gray connector of the BAS right beside the red tab on the frame (right side). Note its location compared to the ignition module, about 1 inch above the gray connector on the ignition module.

 

Been there a long time ago and wired a doide in place of a sensor. Was years back so without digging through all the notes, can't remember specs. It worked because of the way the circuit is laid out. Thanks for the lecture on why it won't work, but it does.

 

No lecture. I was there last year and I have a background in electronics. I don't know what you did and don't claim to know. But without exact info, just saying to put a diode in there is bad advice IMO. The signal is a 5 volt signal. Jumping a 12 volt circuit to a 5 volt circuit could damage the ignition. Maybe you were able to find a 5 volt source to jump off of??? Who knows since you post no info on it. Feel free to post some exact info on how this is done. Until then, the suggestion I made is tried and proven to work. I am not saying he has to do it the way I suggested but he should have all the fact going in. What I posted about diodes and resisters is accurate as well, but don't take my word on it .... Go look it up for yourself.

Have a Great day.

 

After re-reading this many times I think I have deciphered the code. No offense but your terminology is not standard in the electronics field and therefor didn't make a lot of sense.

The suggestion above, as I read it, is the signal to disable the ignition is a "hi" or 5 volts. And the signal that enables the ignition is a "Lo" or ground. If this is a the case, and I have not confirmed it, then pulling the signal for enable Lo would then turn on the ignition.

To confirm the ignition is enabled when the "ignition enable" pin is Lo, turn the bike on and check the voltage on the pin. If it reads 5 volts with nothing attached, then a Lo signal will probably enable it.

To do this a resister could be used. The resister value could vary considerably depending on the circuit in the ignition module. IMO, the highest resister value that pulls it Lo should be used. To test this, go to radio shack and buy an assortment of resisters. I would recommend 100K Ohm 1/4 watt, 10K Ohm 1/4 watt, 5K Ohm 1/4 watt and 1K Ohm 1/4 watt resisters. Starting with the highest value (100K), connect one end to the ignition enable pin on the ignition module (black connector, pin 10 I believe). Then connect the other end of the resister to ground. When you turn the bike on (run position) the signal at pin 10 should read zero volts (ground). If it does not then use the next lower value resister until it read 0 volts on the pin. Remember the resister is used to limit the amount of current draw on that signal so the higher the value, the less current draw.


Good luck and let us know if it works and what value resister you used.

 

I believe the magic # is about .7 v to make it run

 

Sounds like you guys may know some things that can help me with a problem I'm having. I'm installing a Motogadget M.Unit Blue on my 2000 Dyna Wide Glide, and the bank angle sensor is causing me some confusion. Here's the link to my post on the subject:

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...l#post17563488

I don't necessarily need to bypass the BAS ... though I wouldn't mind doing so.

 

what year machine are you talking about? is the harness you are using of the same vintage? if it isn't in the tsm/tssm it could be hacked. even the internal ones can be hacked but requires opening up the unit. basically asking if it is a compilation of parts.
although resistors do resist current, they do have a voltage drop across them, often, used in a comparator circuit.