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2000 FXDWG, M.Unit Blue, and the bank angle sensor
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2000 FXDWG, M.Unit Blue, and the bank angle sensor
I'm installing a Motogadgets M.Unit Blue, and re-doing the wiring in the process. Being new to this kind of project, I've run into a few obstacles. Thanks to help received by forum members like CGGORMAN, I've made some progress. Here's the next little obstacle:
My initial plan was to run all the switches through a common ground back to the M.Unit's negative terminal (as recommended by Motogadget). The problem I've run into is with the key and kill switches. I was going to connect the kill switch's White/black wire to the M.Unit's "Kill" input, the key switch's Red/black to the "Lock" input, and the White/black wire from the ignition module to the "Ignition" output. The issue is that both of these switches are connected to the bank angle sensor(BAS) (grey wire). This sensor is in turn connected to the ignition module (Green/gray wire).
I'm not sure if this would work, but I'm thinking of two possibilities:
OPTION 1) Sever the connection between the kill switch and the BAS, combine the key switch R/B wire with the sensor's Gray (as originally done via the fuse box), and connect the key/sensor wire into the M.Unit's "Lock" input. The kill switch's W/B wire would go to the M.Unit's "Kill" input, while its gray wire would connect to ground.
OPTION 2) Keep the kill switch and sensor connected (Gr), and connect them together to the M.Unit's "Kill" input, while the key switch alone connects (R/B) to the "Lock" input. The kill switch's W/B wire would connect to ground.
Could someone tell me if either of these options would work, or if there's a better way? I wouldn't mind losing the bank angle sensor altogether, if that's possible.
Thanks.
I'm travelling, highly distracted, and away from my wiring diagrams so double check my logic here...
Unless I'm misunderstanding something, you shouldn't have to touch the BAS wiring. It's always on. The Black and white wire coming out of the kill switch goes to KILL, which will turn off the ignition output but leave the accessories (lights) active.
LOCK will turn off all outputs. Red and Black wire I believe.
I'm not 100% sure what the BAS outputs to the ignition via the grey/green wire (likely 12v) but the M.Unit doesn't need to interact with that circuit.
If I missed something or misunderstood, please let me know. Just bear with me, like I said.
What you're saying makes sense, and also appears to support my option #2: Leave the BAS and kill switch tethered (via the grey wire), and connect the kill switch to "Kill"(W/B wire), while connecting the key switch R/B wire (now loose because of the removal of the fuse box) to "Lock". The loose W/B wire from the ignition module goes to the M.Unit's "Ignition" out.
My concern with this is that neither the key nor kill switches would be have direct ground, thus wouldn't signal the M.Unit. Then again, I think the kill switch might be grounded through the BAS, by way of that grey wire. The BAS is itself grounded. I could even ground the loose end of the grey wire (formerly connected to the fuse box), thus grounding the kill switch directly (but would this affect the BAS?).
As for the key switch, perhaps it would be grounded by its (R wire) connection to the circuit breaker, which is grounded via both the voltage regulator and starter-to-battery connections.
On a side note, the original wiring had the start switch tethered to the kill switch by that W/B wire, along with the ignition module, plugs and data link. The start switch's B/R wire went to the start relay. Seems simple enough to run the B/R to "start", separate its W/B wire from the kill switch and ground it. No issues there, right?
What you're saying makes sense, and also appears to support my option #2: Leave the BAS and kill switch tethered (via the grey wire), and connect the kill switch to "Kill"(W/B wire), while connecting the key switch R/B wire (now loose because of the removal of the fuse box) to "Lock". The loose W/B wire from the ignition module goes to the M.Unit's "Ignition" out.
Correct.
My concern with this is that neither the key nor kill switches would be have direct ground, thus wouldn't signal the M.Unit. Then again, I think the kill switch might be grounded through the BAS, by way of that grey wire. The BAS is itself grounded. I could even ground the loose end of the grey wire (formerly connected to the fuse box), thus grounding the kill switch directly (but would this affect the BAS?).
The switches don't have a ground. They just break the circuit. 12v in, 12v out...either open (off) or closed (on)
On a side note, the original wiring had the start switch tethered to the kill switch by that W/B wire, along with the ignition module, plugs and data link. The start switch's B/R wire went to the start relay. Seems simple enough to run the B/R to "start", separate its W/B wire from the kill switch and ground it. No issues there, right?
Hmmm... I tore out all my handlebar and console hardware, including most of the wiring harness. I never studied the starter circuit because I made my own. If memory serves, you just need a way to send 12v to the START input and wire the output directly to the starter (small (14ga?) green wire, IIRC. The M.Unit has a starter relay built in.
I've been considering a re-wire with the M-Unit blue on my 86' EVO and in the research I've done, I thought you get rid of the BAS all together. I believe the M-Unit controls everything. The only stock part that is kept is the main fuse, which is wired to the battery before it gets to the M-Unit.
I could very well be wrong but I will be watching your thread in hopes that you figure this out and I can learn something.
You don't NEED the BAS, but I consider it a worthwhile failsafe if I ever dump the bike. It doesn't take up any space or add any weight, so why not? I know some have had issues with sticky ones, but mine has never given me any trouble.
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2000 FXDWG, M.Unit Blue, and the bank angle sensor
