So I just got a PV and got a map from FM for my setup. Previously I was running the micro from FM with one of their maps on the same setup and it ran strong. Now I have removed the micro and changed to pv because I'm about to install wood cams and gaterman lifters. I wanted to see the difference in performance between the two tuners since I was very happy with how the micro performed. So at this point with the PV the original map does not perform anywhere close to where the micro was. Granted I did my first auto tune last night and uploaded the changes, but I haven't been able to test with changes yet. I guess my main question here is roughly how many auto tune sessions before it gets dialed in? Part of me wants to wait and see how close it gets before changing cams and stuff because I obviously don't know what the differnce in cams should feel like, or if it would feel off. I'm a little surprised that the original tune is performing so poorly compared to the tune from the micro. Maybe because more parameters involved or something, but I was just thinking more expensive tuner would perform better out of the gate. Symptoms of the current PV tune are: more quiet at idle, accelerates pretty good but feels a little flat, and it almost sounds like a puttering instead of a deep rumble like before. I'm sure with all the people that love the PV, I just need to give it a few auto tunes, but was surprised that the micro ran better out of the box so to speak. I almost feel like I should get this base tune performing right so I know what it takes and then change cams, but at the same time I almost feel like I'm wasting my time perfecting a tune only to change things. Any advice here? Sorry, I'm learning as I go and the PV is new for me. I've tried going through the 1000 pages of the sticky, but there are so many side conversations in that thread that I get impatient, and it seems my areas of confusion don't really get covered. Sorry for the long winded post, just looking for guidance from somebody that has been in a similar situation.

 

I experienced the same thing, but with more auto tunes it will get better and better.

It is not unusual for it to keep getting better with each auto tune session, even after 30+ of them.

 

Typically 3-4 auto tunes will get you pretty close. Be patient each run should get better as you max your VE's for best performance.

I tuned mine as a stage-1 just to get a feel for the PV even though I was doing cams and 2-1-2 header the following week. Got to know the PV and performance got better with each tune.

After I did the stage-2 install it was a breeze. Still took about 4 data runs to get the VE's in the 3-4% change range.

I'm surprised the stage-1 map wasn't closer. Fuel Moto usually gets it pretty close, unless you have an unusual combination of parts. Doesn't really matter though, auto tune should be able to get it where it needs to be.

 

Thanks for the responses...that's pretty much what I was figuring to hear. I'm definitely a tinkerer and like all the adjustments the PV has to offer, but I'd be lying if I said it didn't seem a bit over my head. I'd love to have the knowledge to tweak the maps myself a bit to fine tune for me, but I just don't have that kind of knowledge or confidence right now. Google is my friend though, and I want to really dig deep into thus stuff because it is interesting to me and I want to learn. any good websites that would help me wrap my mind around some of this stuff?

 

Read the manuals and follow the procedures, as you get more familiar with the PV the rest will follow. Just start with data runs or auto tunes and get your VE's dialed in. Hit as many cells as possible during these runs. When you get the changes down to less than 5% you can move on to timing, and there are several techniques to get it right.

It's a great tool especially if you like to tinker, but it takes some use to learn your way around.

The PV forum on this site is probably the best around, but it's tedious with more than 650 pages. Skip the first 300 pages, as most of that info is dated and applies to earlier revs of the PV. Start with this link:
https://app.box.com/shared/i66qvn4xf1s2xp7fgy8v

It was written by one of the more knowledgeable members of the forum (JustDennis) and gives a simple procedure for using the PV. It has good basic instructions and explanations. It was written before the 'auto tune' feature was added to the PV, but everything still applies. Use the DynoJet info for auto tune or the info on the FM website. The DynoJet manuals could be clearer in some areas.

 

Hi,

I am with you dueceSB, i have just recently gone from xied to PV.

The map from dynojet stopped the decel popping, gave a bit more legs in each gear but suffered a bit on mileage.

I have done about 10 autotune runs and have the ve's sorted, still get popping but i think the fuel mileage is better as from what i understand it starts AFR back at 14.6 and works from there to tune it to your style of ride, bike, mods etc

There has been no real "WOW" factor though. Having said that i understand the potential of the PV for plug and play, gauges, dyno tuning, loading maps, engine mods etc

Probably end up taking to a tuner here in melbourne AUS who is a very good tuner to see how bike is going on dyno and even out the fuel delivery.

Thanks
Mirrmu

 

Look at the AFR's in WinPV. You can lean out the AFR's in the cruise range if you want better mileage.

Autotune sets your entire table to 14.6 (closed loop) during the autotune run, which is very lean. When it writes the tune it reverts to the AFR values in the base map. So look at the data in WinPV and adjust your cruise range values leaner to improve mileage. You can lean them until you start taking a performance hit.

There are several ways to address decal popping. Look at decel enleanment first, then if necessary you can adjust timing slightly.

 

So, using the autotune will make the bike run lean again? In other words, it's not really tuning for power?

 

Quick update too, two more ATs in and it's starting to feel more normal. One thing I have definitely noticed is that the bike isles much smoother. My smaller mirrors used to vibrate like Hell at stops, and I couldnt really see out of it. Now it's great.

 

Not exactly. It only runs lean during the autotune run as autotune sets the entire map to 14.6 AFR. It does this so it's running closed loop and can use the feedback from the O2 sensors to adjust AFRs.

When autotune saves the map it will go back to the AFR values in the base tune. So the base tune determines the AFR's unless you change them.