For years my 79 Sportster has popped out of 2nd when upshifting and applying power. It ALWAYS goes right back in by itself and never comes out again until POSSIBLY the next time running up thru the gears from a stop. When this is going to happen the shifter does feel like it hasen't gone fully in gear but additional pressure of the shifter doesn't have any effect.
Yesterday I pulled the transmission and have it on the bench and really can't see anything worn or out of place.I pulled the shifting mechanism off, the two pawl springs are in tact and not broken, the shift lever is not bent, the gearshift cam looks fine it doesn't show any wear hardly at all. There is some very slight movement of the gear shifter cam plate back and forth but it seems to be equal in all gears. I'm really puzzled as hell. I did find the 13 needle bearings on the output shaft at the sprocket were dry as a bone, no grease of oil at all so I'm gonna replace them but other than that nothing jumps out at me.
Any ideas???

Thanks

 

"13 needle bearings" I think you mean 23 roll pins?

I had a very similar problem with mine. I fixed it starting as you have, but with the expert help of the guys on the other IronHead forum. I do not have the expert knowledge myself to advise you on this. Here is the thread I made when I did mine, including some mistakes that I made and subsequently corrected...

Mick's Transmission/Shifter Refurb
http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1949291

 

Hello Mick,
Thanks very much for the reply. Wow! What a terrific job you did documenting everything. I've read it thru a couple of times.................my head is spinning, this is above my ability. So I got a little lost after you were talking about the costs to get stuff into Canada for parts and rebuild kits. What did you actually do, get a rebuild kit with all new gears and set it up with all the shimming you described?

Bill

 

There are not any rebuild kits for transmissions - I replaced the individual parts that were worn out. I bought good, used parts from a forum member who has a shop. For me the gear spacing was the most difficult part to understand, but I did figure it out eventually.

It is not above your ability. Just ordinary tools are required. Each individual step is understandable and doable. It is important to allow a lot of time, and take whatever time is needed at each step. I started in early January - the last post in the thread was early May. Four months, working at it some most days.

Note that I measured the countershaft end play incorrectly before I took the trans out And the use of the steel pipe as a breaker bar extension, while criticised at first, was actually OK.

I'll be glad to help you along as much as I can; I'll be honest if any question will get a better answer elsewhere.

 

Hi Mick,
That's very nice of you, thanks very much, I may take you up on it. And yes I saw nothing wrong with the breaker bar and didn't quite understand the objection, that's the way I broke the nuts free on mine.
Talk to you later,

Thanks, Bill

 

There's nothing wrong with a breaker bar extension. I've been using one for 50 years. Better to use a 5 foot tube fence post extension than an impact gun. Less chance of breaking important stuff. It is amazing how little effort it take with the proper breaker bar extension.Like Mick says, YOU CAN DO IT! Just take your time and be patient.

 

Mick,
J&P list a second gear mainshaft and a countershaft 2nd gear available. Is there any reason not to use their parts? Are they compatible with the OEM parts

Bill

 

We never use internal engine, transmission etc parts that are of unknown origin, or are known to be manufactured in china. Such parts are very very bad. The expertise for this is on the other forum. Guys there have rebuilt their own and for customers, and know where to get the good stuff. I bought my parts from an XLForum member who has his own shop, and who knows good used parts and how to refurbish them.

I do not have direct experience with J&P transmission parts so I would not choose them without the expert advice from the other forum...
http://xlforum.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=7

 

OK, understood. I agree on parts, I should have known they may be from China.
Thank you, and thanks for the link.

Bill

 

Andrews make the best USA gears in the world period - no they are not cheap

my guess its the end plays are off, sportys have a way of grinding up the thrust washers then the shifting forks then the gears get the edges get beat up good all kinds of issues become the thing

if you post up pictures of the unit, if you decide to do it yourself- they the parts will tell the tail about what you need to replace

you need a dial indicator and check the end play on the counter shaft and the main shaft before you remove the unit it will give you a guide to re install - and a micrometer to check the thickness of the washers