I found this on Ebay:



Would this work?

 

that would work if you were puting the oiler back on that is an adapter not a plug just go the the hardware store and get a brass 1/8 pipe plug PS that is JB weld for the threads not JW

 

Pinion, That bolt that sits at an angle is blocking the fitting connection for the oil line. I removed mine on the 74 and blocked off the same hole. I did this with the cam cover off. I took the base fitting (pipe thread) that the oil line flange fitting went into and filled it with silfoss using a torch. I then filed the outside end smooth and replaced it using teflon tape. You can see the oil path with the cam cover off.

 

i was wrong about an oil bag oiler i do have one laying around but i looked at it last night and it looks to be homemade,
Thank you.
I have been fooling with Sporties since 1960 and I have never seen any chain oiler that was attached to anything other than the oil return line (pressurized) and certainly not to the oil tank (using gravity flow?) to move the oil to the chain.........pg

 

Thanks Cal....
Now it is my turn to say I was wrong. On my machine the oiler line was attached to the 2 port fitting for the oil return. I had to buy another fitting as I had said when I removed the oiler.
Now when I saw Barry's photo of that bolt which was at a definite angle, something looked wrong to me. I know there is no bolt going in at such an angle on an ironhead.
So yes, I agree with you now. It seems like someone tried to plug the hole using a bolt. He must have been a Rocket Scientist!
I hope Barry's hole is not damaged and he can get a pipe plug into there. I would not use JB Weld though as cruncher had recommended, but rather yellow teflon tape. If it is going to hold at all, the teflon will seal the leak. The passage is part of the return oil system and so it is under oil pressure. That is where Barry's leak is coming from..........pg

 

Thanks Everyone. I'm going to try the 1/8 plug and yellow teflon tape. I'll let you know my results.

Hey, I'm also getting ready to put on a new primary gasket. I've never done this before. Are there any springs or anything that are going to pop out at me on this 72? It is a right-side shift, but the clutch cable runs into the left side. Also, should I use some type of gasket sealer?

 

the only thing that sometimes falls off when you take that cover off is the thrust washer at the end of the starter drive, as for putting on sealant i wouldnt ,i have lapped the casings before ifwasa bad fit by using a peice of glass and taping some emery cloth to and lay it on the coffee table and rub the case on it while watching tv other than that thats the easy side

 

bdavis......
There will be one issue with replacing the primary gasket.
That will be to get the clutch ramp adjustment done correctly.
This adjustment may not be required, but it should be checked just the same. To do the check, it requires you do a new adjustment. Time well spent.

For the primary gasket I always use Permantex #3 on both sides of the gasket myself. #3 is a non-hardening sealer (well, after 2 years it gets hard). I just lay the gasket out on a piece of newspaper and paint both sides of it with #3. Tighten the primary cover screws in a cross pattern, each screw a little at a time, until all are torqued down properly.
Others use no sealer at all. Still others use RTV. Myself, I prefer #3.

If you need help with the instruction for doing the clutch ramp adjustment just let me know and I will get instructions to you for that..........pg

 

Okay, I got the plug in with yellow teflon tape. Went for a 15 minute ride, minimal oil on tire, continued for 30 minutes, quite a bit of oil on tire but not as much as before. I am really frustrated with this. If I could just come up with some type of guard to block the oil from getting on the tire I would. I really am not losing much oil at all, but it sure looks like a lot.

Another question: how close should the chain be to the tire? Mine is maybe a 1/4" away. Could that be part of my problem?

 

A quarter inch away from the tire is fine. You are not getting oil from the chain, it is coming from the leak. Slowing the leak is only progress, not a cure. It should be so oil tight that no oil leaks......period.
When the person jammed a regular bolt into the pipe threaded hole, he did no good at all to the existing threads.
Did you put at least 5 wraps of tape around the plug in a clockwise direction, looking at the end of the plug?
Can you determine that this hole is still where the oil is coming from, or is there an additional location for the leaking?..........pg