New Chain?
I am in the market for a new chain and would like to get an x-ring. Does anyone know what size? Is it 520, 525, or 530. I'm pretty sure it is 106 links. I see that the chain is sold in 120 link lengths. Is a special tool needed to separate the links. Any help here would be great.
Thank You
Thank You
I used to have an Ironhead (I'm looking to get another soon) and remember that there was a chain breaking tool needed. You can find some examples at places like Cyborg Cycles http://www.cyborgcycles.com/tooldrv.html or anywhere else they sell driveline tools...I can't for the life of me remember the size of the Ironhead chain but 520, I thought, is what is used to convert from belt to chain drive in the newer Sporties.
Now I'm really curious and I'm going to look this one up...
Now I'm really curious and I'm going to look this one up...
530 is the size. The length will depend on your sproket teeth. I buy 108 or 110. That way I am sure to have enough. I use a bench grinder to cut to length. I leave the old chain on the bike and hook the new one to the old one with the master link. Pull the new one through, mark the plate to be ground off. Make sure the wheel is all the way forward. Take the chain to the bench grinder and grind the 2 posts off the link you have marked. When it is ground flat, use a chisel and hammer to seperate the plate from the chain. The cut link will come rite off. Hook the new chain to the old one that is still on the machine and pull it through.
Did you get the oiling problem cured?
Did you get the oiling problem cured?
530 is correct 108 fitted to my old -74 xlh, original size sprockets. Remeber that X-ring and O-ring chains are "bigger" than
normal chain. They are usually 1/8" higher and wider I was forced to remove some material from crankcase and sprokercover ( around those bolt holes) chainguard needed to bend a little. This is easy task if you have tools
normal chain. They are usually 1/8" higher and wider I was forced to remove some material from crankcase and sprokercover ( around those bolt holes) chainguard needed to bend a little. This is easy task if you have tools
A good chain is a nickel plated Tsubaki. Nickel is self lubing. You do not need to put a heavy lube on it. You only need to wipe it down with WD-40 or similar to clean it and keep the pins from rusting. I've had one on my Ironhead for the past 10 years.
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Don't use oil with your O-ring or X-ring chain, it spoils those rings
those chains need chain wax instead.
Wax isn't "flying around" like normal chainlube... if you are riding also when it rains you need to have wax.
those chains need chain wax instead.Wax isn't "flying around" like normal chainlube... if you are riding also when it rains you need to have wax.
Trick of the trade...
It's always good to have these tricks thrown out there.
Good luck with R&Ring your chain.
I leave the old chain on the bike and hook the new one to the old one with the master link. Pull the new one through...
Good luck with R&Ring your chain.
Sorry to dig this thread back up and I am not trying to hijack a thread. But this is a quick question and I figured I would just post it in this old thread instead of starting a new one for a quick question. \\;
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I have a 106 link chain with a 49 tooth rear sprocket. I am going to go up to a 51 tooth rear. What length of chain do I need? Also are sealed O-Ring chains good?
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Thanks
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I have a 106 link chain with a 49 tooth rear sprocket. I am going to go up to a 51 tooth rear. What length of chain do I need? Also are sealed O-Ring chains good?
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Thanks


