I finally have it running right, but now I can't get the clutch adjusted. I am following the manual, but it's not working, so I'm posting here to see how you guys are doing it.

1974 XLCH

 

What is it doing or not doing? Give us a starting piont.

 

Basic procedure to adjust clutch:
1. Loose cable, really loose
2. Open adjustment cover, loose locking ( sparkplug socket fits) nut
3. Turn adjustment screw out ( screwdriver), until it feels turning freely
4. Turn adjustment screw in, stop when you feel resistance , turn 1/4 turn back.
5. Secure adjustment with locking nut, try to avoid turn adjustment screw.
6. Adjust cable, with 1/8" free play in lever.
7. Close cover test, check primary oil level

 

Yep, that's different than my book says. Let me try this way. Thanks.

 

What is the problem with the clutch being out of line?
Is it the cable slack (as sipixlh described on how to adjust this) or that the 6 nuts on the pressure plate are out of allignment and the pressure plate wobbles causing the clutch to drag?
If that is the problem then you need additional instruction on how to allign the clutch. Let us know. Perhaps you have it done by now.........pg

 

At the moment, it doesn't move when it is in gear. The book has me turning the adjustment 2 turns after feeling pressure (or my dumb butt misunderstood). It sounds like I have my clutch adjusted to the point of it being engaged. I'll try to get to her tomorrow, but I need to help a neighbor change his radiator, so it may have to wait until the weekend. Thanks for the help so far.

 

ngf.....
What you refer to here is adjusting the clutch controls, as opposed to adjusting the clutch spring tension/plate alignment.
The drill for the control adjustment is:
1) Loosen the locknut and screw the coil adjuster sleeve in until there is a lot of play at the clutch lever.
2) Loosen the adjuster lock screw nut (at the center of the clutch plate) and turn the screw inward until it hits resistance. Then continue turning in 2 more full turns. This disengages the clutch.
3) Run the coil adjuster sleeve back out until there is no play at the lever, but at the same time there is no load on the cable either. A zero condition....no play but no load either.
4) Tighten down the sleeve lock nut. This takes care of the cable adjustment.
5) Now, return to the adjuster screw on the center of the clutch. This is presently turned in 2 full turns. Back the screw off 2 turns-plus where the screw suddenly gets loose.
6) Next turn the screw inward until it just touches (begins to feel like it has made contact with the clutch plate) and stop. Now back off the screw 1/4 to 1/2 turn to give your clutch lever 1/8 inch free play at most. Lock down the screw with the locknut, using a 13/16 deep socket.

It sounds to me like you have done everything that I mention, unless you are leaving that screw at the position stated in #2 above. Running it like that will cause the clutch to slip, so be sure to do all of the steps listed above.

On an Ironhead, 1971 and later uses a wet clutch. There is oil everywhere between the clutch plates. This makes the clutch very stickey. With the engine not running you can put it in gear, pull in the clutch lever and the machine most likely will not roll (especially if the engine is cold). This is because of the oil in that clutch.
Warmed up, the bike will roll in gear but may still feel like the clutch is dragging. This is quite normal, so don't think you need a clutch adjustment.
Crank the engine, put it in gear and there will be a LOUD CLUNK and the machine will jump forward a little. That's how an Ironhead is. Sportsters do this when they are brand new. That is very normal.....pg

PS: sepixlh made a good effort in giving you the process, but he is not 100% correct. He failed to mention the 2 turns inward of the adjusting screw and you said his explanation did not match the book. You are correct...it did not. If you do not do the 2 turns in step, the adjustment will be incorrect. Just follow the steps in the manual (or what I have written above) and you will be fine.
Be sure to not leave that screw turned in the 2 turns as I cautioned in the paragraph after item #6. Always follow the manual.

 

I agree that always follow manual if you have it, my method is a like shortcut. I have used it several years and it has been worked on newer 72-> wet clutch ironheads.
That 2 turn procedure is there for reason, it makes sure that clutch disencage fully. I have skipped it...

 

how much oil should there be in a wet clutch; and what type?

 

The clutch and transmission share the same oil. The tranny/clutch takes 1 1/2 pints of oil (approx) when dry. Dry means you have had everything apart and clean.
The best way to put the oil in to the correct level is to set the bike upright and remove the oil level plug, located just forward of the left foot peg. Fill until oil runs out the hole.
The type of oil to use is the same oil you use in the engine. To a certain extent the engine and trans/clutch oil mix through the oil that comes from the crankcase breather into the clutch primary case. I can no longer get Harley 75 Grade oil (this is about the same as 60W) in my area, so I use Castrol 70W. Texas is normally hot weather, so this works well for me. Use Harley Grade 75 if you can get it at your local dealer......pg