who's been having to add transmission fluid?
#2051
Looks like that inner ring/lip where the pushrod runs through (where the putty is) would be about perfect for collecting moving oil and directing it right onto the exposed pushrod end.
Remove that, and there is no cavity for oil to collect nor for oil to be directed. Just machine the face of that thing right off.
Remove that, and there is no cavity for oil to collect nor for oil to be directed. Just machine the face of that thing right off.
#2052
You must have been writing your post while I was working on mine. We’re on the same page. I don’t see that the barrier does anything good. Now it could if it sealed the mainshaft end from the rest of the transmission. Then you would have to drill a hole on outside to vent the primary.
So I wonder if it's really the missing oil slinger deal that is the main culprit. Guy on the, "There is a fix!" thread seems to think so... interesting.
#2053
I think that would work, but I did notice that the 2013 and below Hydraulic actuator plates have the same barrier without the same issues.
So I wonder if it's really the missing oil slinger deal that is the main culprit. Guy on the, "There is a fix!" thread seems to think so... interesting.
So I wonder if it's really the missing oil slinger deal that is the main culprit. Guy on the, "There is a fix!" thread seems to think so... interesting.
#2054
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: People's Republic of Boulder Colorado
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After reading the last few pages, I'm beginning to think that all of the bikes have the potential of transferring. If that is the case (mine isn't yet), shouldn't there be a general recall?
2017 Ultra Limited.
By the way--I would love for the fix to be changing to a cable clutch and the MoCo doing that at no charge.
2017 Ultra Limited.
By the way--I would love for the fix to be changing to a cable clutch and the MoCo doing that at no charge.
That's a pretty pathetic state of affairs right there. Business as usual for the ol' MoCo, of course.
#2056
Sorry, that's what I meant. 2013 an newer. Yeah, 2013 was not on the bulletin so I wonder if it was just an oversight or something was somehow different.
The 2014-2016s didn't have the first gear scissor gear so we know that's new.
The 2014-2016s didn't have the first gear scissor gear so we know that's new.
#2057
So from what I can tell the scissor gear is on the countershaft. If it is pushing more oil than the previous gear that could be blocking the oil around the mainshaft end from draining or even pushing oil into that space. The thread that was started yesterday mentioned baffles which is basically something I suggested on a previous post by cutting stainless steel sheet metal washers that cover the bearings and slow the flow of oil through the bearings. From what I can see this isn't something that they have had previously, but I don't see how it could hurt anything. Eighteen or twenty two gauge metal would probably work and it is not very thick. Eighteen is 3/64 and twenty two is 1/32". That in conjunction with machining away the barrier might be the ticket. The thing we don't know is what the engineers at Harley have already tried that hasn't worked. From what we have been told by members that have had an attempted fix at a dealer, I don't think this has been attempted yet.
#2058
What I propose Max is machining out what you have circled in yellow in the first image. If you look closely at the clay you will see that the end of the mainshaft goes into the hole and is flush with the other side of that barrier. There is a little space between the barrier and the actuator where oil can collect and then be pulled through the mainshaft into the primary. At high rpm the bearing might be pushing oil into the cavity and through the mainshaft. It might be that’s the case at all rpm, although if that’s true then it should happen on all M8’s. Machining that out will let the oil drain back into the transmission case. I suspect that when the transmission is in motion the oil level should drop somewhat because oil is being picked up by the gears, this should allow for oil to drain back into the case. A slinger could help by throwing oil away from the mainshaft end or it may end up being another collection point. Just have to see.
#2059
You say machine from the inner part only out to the the ring?? You only make the chamber bigger by doing that.. You still don't give the oil a way out.. The clay basically defines the chamber.. Yes the mainshaft and nut extend int the cover slightly.. If anything machine the outside to an OD say 1/4 inch smaller than the clay (1/8 per side). Give the oil a way to leave the area.. I would not machine the inside section where the red arrow points. Keep that close as any oil entering that area should be flung out by the spinning nut.
Ok, so what I am proposing is taking out the material circled in yellow or just a little less. If you look at the parts drawing which is a view from the other side, what this does is open the hydraulic actuator pocket so that there is no partition or barrier holding oil between it and the actuator. This allows oil to drain freely. Could it lead to other problems? Maybe. I have no idea what purpose the engineer that designed this had in mind for the barrier. If it was meant to keep oil away from the mainshaft end it seems it may be doing the complete opposite.
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lp (10-20-2017)
#2060
As I said long ago, the real problem is how much oil is being pushed into the area. This is why I have been looking for a sealed bearing. This would stop all the oil being supplied from the bearing itself.
The ring area where Max has circled is only 0.040" from the machined surface on the bearing plate when installed. I took the bearing plate and machined it to gain clearance to allow the oil a way out. I removed ~ 0.125" from the bearing plate in this area which is about as far as you can. If you were to cut anymore away you cut into the snap-ring area. I also made small bevel cut around the the outer edge of the circle Max drew to open the clearance as much as I could on that side. The problem is those areas on the cover are very thin and not much can be removed or you break through to the outer side. Since the newer slave does not have the o-ring seal I did not want to break into that area. I also made a new gasket out of 1/8" material to space the cover away from the bearing plate, again to gain clearance for the oil to get out.
All of this with the slinger ring installed did not stop oil transfer. So I then moved into the oil balance hole that is in the bearing plate, thinking it might be not allowing the oil back through the plate fast enough. Made a deflector cover that would stop or at least slow that from happening and installed it. No change from the previous testing.
There has been a few more things that showed no promise in testing, so I will not bother talking about those but this is a bigger problem than many would think. The sealed bearing is the next thing that I feel needs testing.
I have a Baker cover that Mark from Baker has supplied and it has much more open area in it and I will try that as soon as I can get back onto it. If and when I can get a sealed bearing that will be tried as well.
The ring area where Max has circled is only 0.040" from the machined surface on the bearing plate when installed. I took the bearing plate and machined it to gain clearance to allow the oil a way out. I removed ~ 0.125" from the bearing plate in this area which is about as far as you can. If you were to cut anymore away you cut into the snap-ring area. I also made small bevel cut around the the outer edge of the circle Max drew to open the clearance as much as I could on that side. The problem is those areas on the cover are very thin and not much can be removed or you break through to the outer side. Since the newer slave does not have the o-ring seal I did not want to break into that area. I also made a new gasket out of 1/8" material to space the cover away from the bearing plate, again to gain clearance for the oil to get out.
All of this with the slinger ring installed did not stop oil transfer. So I then moved into the oil balance hole that is in the bearing plate, thinking it might be not allowing the oil back through the plate fast enough. Made a deflector cover that would stop or at least slow that from happening and installed it. No change from the previous testing.
There has been a few more things that showed no promise in testing, so I will not bother talking about those but this is a bigger problem than many would think. The sealed bearing is the next thing that I feel needs testing.
I have a Baker cover that Mark from Baker has supplied and it has much more open area in it and I will try that as soon as I can get back onto it. If and when I can get a sealed bearing that will be tried as well.
The following users liked this post:
lp (10-20-2017)