I've read your views & most of the opinions you have seem based on expectations based on a dedicated Nav product (Garmin). The H-D Nav unit is primarily an entertainment system designed to provide music. If you compare the H-D Nav to the dedicated in-dash oem car products, it is far better. My point being you're really comparing apples to oranges.

Next, don't blame HK for Nav shortcomings; Nav portion is provided by Naviextras, an eastern european company that provides about zero in the way of support. See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IGO_(software)

You have stated you've reviewed HDF for threads about the Nav system, but also indicate you plan to test it by using a GPX file that has "more waypoints than you can count". Don't bother. It will not work. When this system was first available, total waypoints accepted was less than 20. Subsequent updates have got us up to 100, although practical usage is generally less than 60.

I use a freeware/shareware product called Route Converter to prepare my routes on my PC. That package uses the current Google db & will allow route construction/checking. It will also allow constructing multiple routes within a single GPX file. This can be useful to get around the 100 waypoint (less than 60 practical) limit. When I plan long day rides that include a lot of waypoints, I will use a route to destination & a route back from destination. I save them as a single GPX file. When I load that file into the bike, I select ALL instead of an individual route name. This will allow access (select & go) to each route independently. I do not try to differentiate between waypoints & destinations. Each route has a start & an end. The end is the destination & when reached , the navigation ends. Another trick; if you start from your "start waypoint" you may want to actually select the second waypoint before selecting go. I have found many times that, while at/near the start waypoint, if I don't actually ride through that first waypoint (within nav's accuracy tolerance), the system will try to route you back to that first waypoint until you can delete it (& subsequent added directions to route you back). Also, I zoom in as far as possible & use the satellite view when placing waypoints. I never place them in the middle of intersections, always just before or after a turn. And I also place them on the roadways, not off to the side. This is critical because if the waypoint is not in the ride path, the system will try to route you back until you manually delete the missed waypoint (& the subsequent added directions).

Finally, Garmin's Mapsource does not build "clean" GPX files (clean as to how the H-D Nav interprets & uses the data within the Mapsource GPX files). Garmin units use this extra data, but can also use the "dumbed down" data as needed by the H-D Nav. This is not a knock on Garmin or Mapsource, (I think most will agree that Garmin products are among the very best navigation products available) just an observation that causes issues within the H-D Nav. Once you understand how Route Converter works, it will be easy to see this extra information by opening a complex Mapsource GPX file & looking at it.

 

I am traveling across the US on my 16 Limited. Before I updated my system I could save POI to preferred, Rest areas, Costco, Starbucks or any other common POI. Now when I save one it works for maybe a day then reports none found. Even if I am setting at rest stop.
Anyone know if there is a trick to this.
My old bike had a Garmin Zumo and worked great.

 

There are limits to how many POIs can be stored (saved). You may need to do a reset to clear them out before the unit functions correctly.

 

I have not run across this myself yet, but I am still playing with things.
One would think that if you had too many it would not let you import/create a new one instead of letting you create it and then remove it. It may be a system glitch. I updated the software on my 2017UL in May 2017 and have not seen this problem, but the 2016 may/may not use the same Firmware.

One thing that I do is keep all of my POI's and routes on my 128GB Music USB Stick, this way I can import whatever I need without having to swap USB sticks.

As Hammz mentioned a reset might help clear any issues. Below are the basic instructions. {Thanks to the Original Poster(s)}. My 2017UL also has a Privacy Reset which just wipes the Points/Routes/Favorites.

Boom Box Factory Reset

1. Turn IGN OFF. Wait 15 seconds.

2. Press and hold power/mute button. Turn IGN to ACC.

3. Continue to press power button for 2 seconds after the WARNING screen is displayed.

4. Release power/mute button and accept warning.
The service menu may display Diag Service Not Available when a menu option is initially selected. This message will clear once the system has finished performing the power-on process. Options are: DTCs, Audio, Display, Key input, Component menus, Version info, Reset, Touchscreen.

Reset: Pre-calibration reset: Restores factory default settings. This is recommended when there are radio symptoms and no DTCs*

Post calibration save: Archives customer’s settings so that they can be restored after a Post calibration Reset.

Post calibration reset: Resets the radio to factory default settings and restores the last archive data stored during Post Calibration Save.

 

On another note I would love to hear how you setup your route and how it worked out for you. I am looking at a cross country trip next year and input on what worked/did not work for you would be appreciated.

 

Each morning I enter my final destination for the day. Then I enter the waypoints starting with the farthermost and work back. I have never entered more than 1 day, I never took the time to learn. When you get close to a waypoint you need to skip next waypoint or it will not go on to next one.
I will try a reset again, I did it when I installed latest update. If I add a new poi and save it all the rest work until I turn ignition off then nothing works. It doesn't appear to keep them in memory.

 

It really sounds like (to me) that you have a faulty unit.
I have done a couple of short routes using that method, and one of my peeves with this system is the fact that it will not auto skip a way-point when you pass it by, unless you ride over it. Ride Safe and let us know if you have it checked out.

 

Read your comments and thought that I would respond/comment on a few things. I have been using the system for almost 4 years (2014 for 3 and 2017 for almost a year). I think I have made most mistakes, read countless forum comments (both informed and uninformed) and have gotten to the point that I really like the BB system and can usually get it to do what I want.

I use Tyre to Travel when I am on my home computer to develop the routes and always pre-ride the route on the BB system. Also, I suggest that you learn to use Ride Planner. If you are on the road and need to develop a route you can do this on Ride Planner as most hotels will have a computer for you to use and Ride Planner is internet based.

My BB is always set to fastest route, you can have a different view on this point, but this is the way I do it.

I will comment on your number points as follows:

2. Early on I did try "Select All" and found the same problem that you have outlined. I abandoned this and since have always used only the second selection or routename.gpx. The latest update has reduced the possible selections to only three, "Select All", "routename.gpx", and "T-routename.gpx". "routename.gpx" does as always and uploads the route. I was curious as to what would happen if I used "Select All" and I got a memory full type message and nothing was downloaded. I have no idea the purpose of "T-routename.gpx".

3. Tyre to Travel and Ride Planner are driven by Google Maps. The BB is not driven by Google Maps and without a doubt there will be differences in the routes.

4. I don't have the same experience as you with waypoints on the wrong side of the road. Frequently, the BB will say the next waypoint is on the left when I thought I placed it o the right and I pass without problems. If you are on an interstate and mark on the wrong side on the road, it will do as you stated. If the waypoint is far enough off on the route and you bypass it, it will try to circle you back and will never quit. FOR THIS REASON, YOU MUST LEARN TO USE "SKIP NEXT WAYPOINT" ON THE FLY, SAFELY.

8. I have not found a practical way to use "Route Simulation". I have found two ways to do a relatively quick pre-ride on the BB.

a) 1. Bring your map onto the screen
2. touch the screen for one or two seconds and remove your finger
3. a small circle and 4 arrow points will appear
4. you can use the touch screen and move along the route and see
exactly where the BB will take you
5. zoom in and out as needed to see the level of detail desired

b) 1. Bring your map onto the screen
2. Touch street line at the bottom of the screen
3. Select a street
4. Select "zoom"
5. touch white arrow on the sides of the street bar and the map will go to
the next turn or waypoint (orange arrow)
6. this is easiest for me when I set the screen to "north up"

10. Suggest you break your route into days and be sure to carry your
memory stick with you.

11. I'm having a hard time understanding what is happening with the noise issue. I wear a full face Arai helmet and have been wearing this type of helmet for 15 years. I always ride with the intercom on and don't experience the same things that you outline. My suggestion is that you have someone experienced with helmet headsets take a look at yours, I feel like there is a setting that needs to be adjusted. I purposely didn't suggest the dealer as most mechanics are not experienced with headsets, vox, etc.

I have 4 or 5 friends that have bought the headsets that clamp over the ears. Most have used then a couple if times and just quit in frustration.

 

Thanks for your input and insight. Right now I am experimenting with Route Converter to see if I can get a better import file.

I have learned how to do a SKIP, I just find it annoying.
I use Gas Stations as waypoints on routes, simply so I know how far between the fuel stops are. Since they are on the other side of the road sometimes BB will route me a U-Turn if I do not actually pull in.

I will try out your "pre-ride" as soon as I can to see how that works.
I had noticed the arrows, but did not try to do what you suggested.

I thought it was strange to have the intercom issues with the full helmet, so I appreciate your input on it. I have talked to the dealer and though they were able to show me the same stuff I learned from the manual, they were not overly helpful. Not sure where I will find help with it, but now that I have confirmation that this is not normal, I can do more trouble shooting. I have adjusted the VOX one level at a time for testing and it goes from not activating to constant activating. Oh well, I will keep at it.

I did pickup a set of IMC that plug in that fit into my half shell speaker pockets, they work very well also. But they start acting up just like the ones that we have for the full helmet from Harley. I will have to some experiments.

One more point, I have this issue when riding with my wife. Since I do not use the headset when I am alone, nor do I have it paired with a cell phone, I am not sure if it will happen. This is one of the things I will have to test.

 

I've just started working with the GPX files and the BB. I've also used Route Converter to produce the same route as the BB's "record" function, and there's s surprising difference in how each writes their route files. While each looks the same on the BB display, the RC files give the BB Nav much less information than the "BB recorded" files do. It's just HTML being read, but RC tends to read out each point you mark, while BB record marks each second of travel you record. RC also outputs "rte" & "rtept" while BB outputs "trk" & "trkpt" symbols. Here's the same 8 mile route from BB and RC - please not that I've changed the symbols in the RC file to match the BB's. (Actually, it's only a partial BB print since it's so long.)