With no place for the water to go, and 20k mile change intervals, The center plugs come out like this. Its also a must to blow out the center plug area with compressed air before you go removing the plugs. all kinds of crap gets trapped there, not cool for any of it to fall into the cylinder.
Great follow on sixguns, best to blow the area clear of debris from ALL plugs regardless of conditions. Standard practice for "most" techs. Also important to fully compress the crush washer or your spark plug will loosen, then wallow out the receiver, the bottom threads will fill full of carbon and you'll never fully tighten another plug unless you tap and die your head which is NEVER fun. I've had to do this on several bikes, customers never want to pay to have the head removed so we try to tap and die using plenty of grease hoping to trap most of the shavings but you know they aren't all captured.
NGK's standard plug for the M8 is CR9E or Manufacturer # 6263
NGK's Iridium plug for the M8 is CR9EIX or Manufacturer # 3521
So do the NGK plugs need the threaded terminal nut , or can the stock plug wire boot/terminal snap onto the threaded stud end of the 6263 plug? Trying to figure out if I need to go chase down terminal nut ends for the plugs... thanks
So do the NGK plugs need the threaded terminal nut , or can the stock plug wire boot/terminal snap onto the threaded stud end of the 6263 plug? Trying to figure out if I need to go chase down terminal nut ends for the plugs... thanks
Plugs as required for OEM configuration. You don’t need to chase anything down.
I prefer to use NGK over champion. Great idea with the zip ties. Don’t forget the dielectric grease too, makes it much easier next time removing that boot
Dielectric grease on one end and anti seize on the other. Cheap insurance