Thanks, this is the info I need. I appreciate it. And to you who is brewing coffee, save me a cup...I have a nie SK 1/4" drive set and a snap on 1/4" ratchet too. I've used this stuff more times than I ever thought i would. Invaluable for heat shield clamps and such. I couldn't imagine using a flat head screwdriver to do all those clamps...

 

Those and that style of ratchet wrenches require heavy work gloves. My set ended in the back of my tool box. I prefer the forged ones and without a reverse click.(strongest but you do have to flip) I'm careful, so I rarely use that or any ratchet to break or finish tighten anyway.

 

I guess no one uses a box wrench anymore.

 

Have you tried removing the heat shield

 

Torque adapter?

Or this:

 

Might have missed it, but what year and model bike is this?

I too wonder what exhaust this is. I just swapped head pipes a few weeks ago and had no issues with that clamp. Not the right deep socket but there is still room to get to it with an extension.

 

This is the Fuel Moto RTX HS exhaust. I have loosened the heatshields and moved them out of the way to allow easier access, however space was still limited with my tools that were on hand, however the minimal amount of clearance requires some sort of specialty tool I do not own yet. Jamie is going to post what they use. This exhaust fits extremely tight and sits nice and high to minimize the chance of front head pipe scrapage. I can tell you that my Cobra power port headers on my 2013 Road Glide (with 13" shocks in place of the stock 12" shocks) has quite a few scrapes on the front head pipe heat shield. I have since swapped that bike to a Bassani Road Rage 2 into 1 and I have also scraped the front head pipe on that bike. So part of the thinking with this RTX is the "high and tight" fitment, along with the fact that I really like the power this and the combo of a cam are putting out on a 114 M8.
These kind of situations are what allow me to learn more bout the best way to go about doing something specific, and the forums are paramount in that as well.

 

There are a lot of different techniques & tools you can use when installing M8 exhaust systems that use a P-clamp at the original location. Various pipes & brands are configured at different heights, some re-use the factory clamp and others (like the Jackpot RTX) include a new clamp as our header primary is much larger than stock. We use the tools and procedures below:

Start the P-clamp nut by hand and once it gets to the clamp use a 1/2" combination wrench to start snugging it up. This takes a little time as you don't get much throw.


If you have already installed the heat shields be sure to mask each of the surfaces, it may be easier in some cases to remove the heat shields and this will prevent marking the Cerakote or chrome surface.

Next I use a 1/2" standard socket with a swivel extension (1/4 drive) and fully tighten the nut.


As an alternative I use a square socket with a combination wrench, this gives plenty of room. This one is a Milwaukee, similar sockets are available from other tool companies and are great for getting in tight areas.


A quick tip is to make sure the factory mounting stud is screwed all the way in, many times this is not screwed in all the way. The stud has a hex on the end, you can use a 1/4" socket

 

I too have the RTX and you are correct, it is not easy to get a tool in there. I believe I used a ratchet wrench but could only get maybe 1-2 clicks at a time. Took awhile but got it done.

 

I always leave the heat shields off till everything is assembled and tightened.