This is what is in the 2021 Service Manual

 

Thanks, I found it in my manual now and torque specs for Touring 2021 show 84-108 not 25-35 in. lbs. as $tonecold is showing. What manual is showing the 25-35 in. lbs.

 

That was the Softail manual. I'm surprised that there is that much difference between the Touring and Softail. That's the only 2021 manual I have.

 

Every Harley that I've owned over the last 50+ years has got heavy gear oil lube for the clutch cable and never need to touch
it again. Just remove the cable from the lever, prop it straight up, stick the cable in a funnel (cut to size) and tape to seal.
Pour in 90w140 synthetic gear oil submerging the cable end and let it set overnight. Wipe off the dripping the next day and
reconnect the cable to the lever. You'll have a nice easy lever pull and be free of lubing your cable from then on.

 

I installed the 1200N springs yesterday, 20min job. The clutch pull is only slightly more than the 1100N springs and after riding for a bit almost not noticable. On first pull the clutch was noticably stiffer but after several cycles loosened up. The crispness between shifts seems sharper as well. Even with the bit of arthritis in my left hand all is good.

 

How do you change the springs without pulling the entire primary cover on a 2020 LRS? The derby cover is not centered over the clutch.Only two of the springs can be accessed at once.

 

It is "almost" impossible to change springs through the derby cover hole.

 

I did it on my 2019 Heritage, although it looked like it wasn't going to work. Give YouTube a try.

 

I may try it. I'm sheltering in place because I've got the China Virus so I've got some time but no primary oil. Since 1968 any tricks you recommend? Nothing on Youtube.Old Mike you said 'almost," did you try?

 

If I am remembering correctly, there is a ring, sort of a retaining plate with 3 holes in it. Working through the clutch cover, you can loosen the 3 cap screws, one at a time. Then remove 2 of them and swing the retaining plate far enough to pull out a spring and set the new one in. then put that cap screw in but loose enough to swing the retaining plate again so you can remove the 2nd spring and replace it, then get to the last one and finally install a second and then the third cap screw. It's hard to write it down but I know it can physically be done.
I can't for the life of me remember how I spun the clutch basket to accomplish all this. Maybe I got the rear wheel off the ground and spun it in high gear but I don't think that can work with the clutch springs loosened up. Probably I just put a socket on the locknut for the clutch adjuster that's in the center of the clutch.
One thing I do remember for sure, the small bolts that hold the clutch cover are super weak. I easily broke one putting the cover back on. After that I used an inch-lb torque wrench and followed the spec which wasn't much, maybe 25 inch-lbs?
If you go ahead and remove the clutch cover and get a look hopefully what I'm trying to say will make some sense.