Mine has the small gravel in the fender sound and it started after I did a auto tune session.
That got me looking at the auto tune map which I found, pulled a bunch of fuel from the cruising range. The bike was running really rich which is why I ran an auto tune session. Made a few adjustments to find a happy medium then pulled a little timing from the rear cylinder and now it’s quiet again.

 

Yeah, I'll talk to the shop I bought it from when I bring it in for service next week. Hopefully they can advice on what to do.

Roger, I'll talk to the workshop and see what they have to say about it. Maybe they can just make some adjustments and then problem will be solved. I'll come back with an update once I hear what they have to say.

Wouldn't the bike ping more than once on every occurence if they were deactivated? The explanation that they are what's limiting it to just the one ping makes sense to me...

Maybe it really is tuner related... I'll look into it.

 

might be detonation maybe bad fuel

 

I just looked back at my Powervision purchase. The first time I heard the “tink tink” was mid October last fall on a trip at about 10,000 miles. I ordered Powervision one week later from Fuel Moto. Have updated the tune several times from them including running some datalogs for them and updating tunes again. “Tink Tink” is still here.

I’m at 17,000 miles now. It’s not bad gas.

 

My buddy bought a 2021 Ultra with the 114. He has complained about pinging since the day he bought it. He is a heavy duty mechanic so knows his way around engines. After multiple visits to the dealer, they told him its normal. I said bullshit and suggested he take it to a competent dyno tuner and have it dialed in using an aftermarket tuner.

I test road a 22 Road King Special back to back with a 22 Ultra, both bikes equipped with the 114 and running the same fuel during a test your metal event. The Ultra pinged constantly on acceleration and ran like a piece of crap over all. The Road King Special on the other hand, ran like a finely tuned performance machine. Sounded good, pulled hard to redline and absolutely no pinging. I was amazed that two brand new machines with essentially the same powertrain could run and perform so differently. Maybe one was built on Friday and one was built on Wednesday?

Not sure but I think it was apparent that although both motorcycles featured the same engine, they obviously had very different ecm calibrations. Long story short, a good dyno tuner should be able to eliminate the pinging issue. Mechanically, most M8 engines are similar and run just fine without pinging. Likely your engine needs some timing pulled or more fuel in that area (or a combination of both ). Good luck and hopefully you can get this sorted.

 

This is kind of what I've expected after chasing this poltergeist for a year and a half..

Back in the early ’70’s I used to drink Carling Black Label beer. It was pretty good. Depending on which day of the week, and where you bought it.

Harley’s have attained that status.

Again.

I’ll shop for another Evo.

 

The knock sensors sense detonation and retard the timing for a second to eliminate it. I can hear it in my bike depending on what fuel I have purchased (and octane rating), where I am riding, load, and throttle position. You can make your bike ping. The system they use now works better than anything we had in the past. Given if everything in your bike is in working order than you should be good. Ride it!

 

I started with a Fuel Moto canned tune as well but it smelled extremely rich but there was no tink, tink. After working on the fuel (VE) tables, I started looking at the front and rear timing tables. The front cylinder looked to have been adjusted quite a bit but the rear was smooth like a canned map from Dynojet and looking at the numbers between the two cylinders, the rear timing tables were higher than the front cylinder tables. The rear cylinder timing table numbers, comparatively, should be lower than the front due to heat. Just like the rear fuel (VE) tables should be higher than the front to help with cooling.

When riding my bike trying to tune the issue out of it, I paid a lot of attention to the rpm and throttle position I was at when it rattled. Usually mine was around 2000 to 2700 rpm’s and 40% and up throttle position; whacking the throttle open in a high gear was the only way I could get it to rattle.
When you look at the VE tables in that area, they’re usually set lower and my assumption is they do that as that’s where your cruising rpm’s are at so you’ll get better fuel mileage.

My take is everything’s a compromise, If I downshifted and didn’t lug it, it was fine but after installing my S&S 485 cam (Star 30/30), who wants to do that with all that low end torque! I tuned mine where I may give up a little fuel mileage but it doesn’t rattle now.

 

My favorite gripe about gripe sheets was "8 day clock needs winding". Really it took more time to write it then to wind the damn clock.

 

yer head is probably gonna hurt in the morning just from writing that.