Updating the oil pump.
#1
Updating the oil pump.
I decided to take a break because I'm hungry, but ran into a slight issue.
All I'm doing is putting the newest M8 pump in, so cam and everything else is in place. But I'm guessing that my problem is because I didn't remove the spark plugs.
Everything went back together easy enough, except the cam plate won't line up with the cam. When I look at it with a flashlight, I can see that the cam is slightly below cam opening in the cam plate.
I guess that not removing the lifters and pushrods, puts pressure on the cam in a downwards direction.
Wondering how I can get the cam to line up with the cam plate without removing the lifters and pushrods.
Any ideas or suggestions?
Before u ask, I was bored and decided to put the newest M8 oil pump in. I don't have the money to pay for another license and tune through Fuel Moto. That will come when the riding season is shorter.
All I'm doing is putting the newest M8 pump in, so cam and everything else is in place. But I'm guessing that my problem is because I didn't remove the spark plugs.
Everything went back together easy enough, except the cam plate won't line up with the cam. When I look at it with a flashlight, I can see that the cam is slightly below cam opening in the cam plate.
I guess that not removing the lifters and pushrods, puts pressure on the cam in a downwards direction.
Wondering how I can get the cam to line up with the cam plate without removing the lifters and pushrods.
Any ideas or suggestions?
Before u ask, I was bored and decided to put the newest M8 oil pump in. I don't have the money to pay for another license and tune through Fuel Moto. That will come when the riding season is shorter.
#2
Wondering how I can get the cam to line up with the cam plate without removing the lifters and pushrods.
Your install steps include rotating the crank assembly so you can center the camplate and pump on the crankshaft run out.
You need to pull the spark plugs, cut out the pushrods, install the camplate and oil pump correctly, or you're going to cause a serious engine failure.
The only way you can do this without cutting out the pushrods is to pull the rockerboxes and pull the rocker arms off.
Just do it the right way. SE Adjustable Pushrods or FM Adjustable pushrods aren't bank breaking expensive.
This is the centering sequence I used for my SE Oilpump and camplate install
Oil Pump and Cam plate Install Torque Sequence:
Touch Snug(by hand tool) the bolts in sequence.(1 to 10)
Rotate the Crank Shaft, several times.
Torque Wrench Snug the Cam Plate (3 to 8) 1/4in
15 to 20 inch pounds
Rotate the Crank Shaft, several times.
100inch pound Torque The Cam Plate(3 to 8)
Rotate the Crank Shaft
Torque Wrench Snug the Oil Pump(except 9 and 10)
Rotate the Crank Shaft.
100inch pound Torque the Oil Pump.(1,2,9,10)
Rotate the Crank Shaft
110inch pound Final Torque full sequence 3 to 8, 1, 2, 9, 10.
Done.
Touch Snug(by hand tool) the bolts in sequence.(1 to 10)
Rotate the Crank Shaft, several times.
Torque Wrench Snug the Cam Plate (3 to 8) 1/4in
15 to 20 inch pounds
Rotate the Crank Shaft, several times.
100inch pound Torque The Cam Plate(3 to 8)
Rotate the Crank Shaft
Torque Wrench Snug the Oil Pump(except 9 and 10)
Rotate the Crank Shaft.
100inch pound Torque the Oil Pump.(1,2,9,10)
Rotate the Crank Shaft
110inch pound Final Torque full sequence 3 to 8, 1, 2, 9, 10.
Done.
https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson....3?locale=en_US
Last edited by FranBunnyFFXII; 05-23-2024 at 08:53 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by FranBunnyFFXII:
BrandonSmith (05-26-2024),
Germansheperd (05-24-2024)
#3
According Fuel Moto you can. Follow the link and scroll down to msg #35
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/milwa...nd-pump-4.html
I have everything that I need for my cam upgrade. It's the $270 that I'm lacking for the tune & license.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/milwa...nd-pump-4.html
I have everything that I need for my cam upgrade. It's the $270 that I'm lacking for the tune & license.
Last edited by Glenn Gorman; 05-23-2024 at 09:06 PM.
#4
I would not install any pump and camplate into that engine without being able to center it on the crankshaft run out. As well as being able to rotate it a few times to ensure that nothing is binding.
S&S, Feuling, SE all 3 have instructions for centering the oil pump and plate based on rotating the crankshaft.
There's a reason for that. I would not skip it if I wanted my engine to run for 100k miles+ and not have it leave me stranded on the side of a road.
S&S, Feuling, SE all 3 have instructions for centering the oil pump and plate based on rotating the crankshaft.
There's a reason for that. I would not skip it if I wanted my engine to run for 100k miles+ and not have it leave me stranded on the side of a road.
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Germansheperd (05-24-2024)
#5
Too funny, while sitting here going over my finances trying to figure out where i can come up with the cash for the license and tune, I came across this video. The guy was trying to do the same thing as I was trying.
It's not so much the cash, I have the credit, it's the extra monthly payment. My rent went up by $100 last month, the insurance for my Car, bike and apartment went up by $33 a month. When you add a monthly payment to a fixed income, there's no way to make up for it.
So, I guess that when I wake up, I'll be cutting the old pushrods and using the new Fuel Moto quick ones. Bought these off a guy for around $100.
I'm wondering whether I should replace the cam shaft bearing and the lifters or just wait until I do the cam upgrade. I'll be putting on well over 3000 miles this summer and would hate to have to replace those again. I guess it will depend on if the Harley lifters show any wear after 9500 miles.
Or here's a thought, I could just loosen the cylinder heads and keep the original pushrods in place.
Thoughts?
It's not so much the cash, I have the credit, it's the extra monthly payment. My rent went up by $100 last month, the insurance for my Car, bike and apartment went up by $33 a month. When you add a monthly payment to a fixed income, there's no way to make up for it.
So, I guess that when I wake up, I'll be cutting the old pushrods and using the new Fuel Moto quick ones. Bought these off a guy for around $100.
I'm wondering whether I should replace the cam shaft bearing and the lifters or just wait until I do the cam upgrade. I'll be putting on well over 3000 miles this summer and would hate to have to replace those again. I guess it will depend on if the Harley lifters show any wear after 9500 miles.
Or here's a thought, I could just loosen the cylinder heads and keep the original pushrods in place.
Thoughts?
Last edited by Glenn Gorman; 05-24-2024 at 01:04 AM.
#6
Just do what franbunny said, put in adjustable push rods or take the rocker assembly"s off, do it right or no one on here is going to have sympathy for you if/when your engine shells out. The cheapest way to do it correctly at this point is to remove the rockers and reuse the push rods, if you do this just mark and keep track of where each one goes.
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Glenn Gorman (05-24-2024)
#8
You could of course make up some kind of jig or something to put upwards pressure on the floating end of the cam. Leave it for half an hour and the lifters should bleed down a touch. then you may get some wiggle to put the plate on
...and then rotate the crank to centre the oil pump and tighten it down.
As said above, as long as the downward pressure from the lifters on a floating camshaft hasn't damaged the rear bearing ...and of course your easing the front of the cam back up again.
...and then rotate the crank to centre the oil pump and tighten it down.
As said above, as long as the downward pressure from the lifters on a floating camshaft hasn't damaged the rear bearing ...and of course your easing the front of the cam back up again.
#9
You could remove the rocker arms to get the pushrods out.
Last edited by NorthWestern; 05-24-2024 at 07:28 AM. Reason: spelling
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