That’s GREAT! Big help, thank you Sir!

Wow. That was the easiest handlebar swap I’ve ever done, Not the fastest, as the nacelle added some time, but it was so bloody easy. All the connectors were right there on the steering head, the TBW connector (molex) was so much easier to depin compared to the newer micro connectors, and the best of all...

I saw somewhere something called “cable lube” basically an inert wax based paste, designed for network, fiber optic or other cables being pulled through conduit. I got a bottle from Amazon, spread it on the cables and I swear to God, they pulled through the bars so easily I literally laughed out loud while doing it. I used probably two tablespoons worth, and have enough to last the rest of my life lol. Wish I discovered this 6 bikes ago!

This is the stuff.
Installed Gooden Tite bushings, and done. The Wild1 12” Outlaw bars I selected, look great and fit me perfectly. The switch pack cables needed short extensions, but the TBW, clutch and brake lines were plenty long enough.

This is the cable lube btw.





Later tonight, or tomorrow AM, I’ll be pulling off the stock pipes and installing a Fuel Moto E-Series 2:1

Then on Tues I’m getting new tires, and an early 15k service and brake flush done at my dealer, just so they can do a thorough inspection of the “new to me bike” so I have a solid starting point.

Then some Racetech springs and emulators in the forks, and probably some middle line Ohlins on the rear and I’ll be done for a while.

My hand position is about 3” higher then the bars that were on the bike. For the wires, I used HD extension cables I got from my dealers parts desk. I think they were 6”. They cost about $25 for the set, I believe. I wouldn’t cut or try to splice canbus control wires, personally.