Originally Posted by GARY DYER

Why do car mfg's say you can go 2 to 3 times longer between oil changes now with their oil monitors that are telling drivers they can.
Do oil monitors know if dino oil or syn oil is in the engine? Do they know the difference?

Originally Posted by mjwebb

nope, they just use algorithms to calculate variables..my Silverado would range anywhere from 3500 - 7500 miles on the OLM..but Harleys aren't that sophisticated and I am not willing to risk not following the manufacturers requirements...5K max on oil and filter is safe..and when you consider how many Harleys use exposed performance air filters that get force fed airborne contaminants those will dirty up the engine internals more than the OEM configs

Originally Posted by GARY DYER

I agree with the 5K unless it's dino oil, then I would never go over 3K.
In the winter I only get 600 ~ 1000 miles (depending on the weather) before changing the 10/40 back to 20/50 in March - then on average 2 changes (5K each) during the summer.

Originally Posted by 60Gunner

I don't know why people avoid even trying VR1 Conventional despite the UOAs that show it holds up better than any synthetic in an air cooled v-twin. Exceptionally well with heat. As good or better than vr1 synthetic even. I guess because it's been ingrained into everyone's brain that synthetic is better. Well, not in this case. I've been running the VR1 for years and I run my 90hp 1250 with 570 cams Sporty harder than most do. 3500-5500rpm 90% of the time. A lot of hard accelerating/decelerating. I don't want say I beat on it but...I'm fricking hard on it! And I wouldn't run any other oil. When i tore my motor down for the upgrade my engine wear was practically non existent.
And it's $5.60/qt. by the case at Amazon! $33 for 2 oil changes.
I see all these guys trying one synthetic after the next and ignoring the obvious simply because it's not synthetic.
The synthetic vr1 is great too but damn near twice the price and not necessary. That's why those who know how well it does, run the conventional.

Originally Posted by asphalt eater

i'm going to try it.u using 20/50 weight ?

Originally Posted by lightweight bob

I too am old, 78, and have been around the block several times on oil threads for air cooled HD's.
Living in the SoCal desert area with both heat and lots of slow moving traffic at times I've settled
on Valvoline VR1 Racing conventional 20w50 also. I don't buy into extended oil changes just
because it's synthetic - if your bike goes into high temp limp mode at idle your oil is turning to
junk regardless. Comprehensive tests have shown the best synthetics give you only 25 degrees
more protection and many do not test as well as VR1 Racing conventional oil. I personally like
the 5 quart size from Amazon and use the container for used oil disposal - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZCQZ771...v_ov_lig_dp_it

Originally Posted by lightweight bob

I too am old, 78, and have been around the block several times on oil threads for air cooled HD's.
Living in the SoCal desert area with both heat and lots of slow moving traffic at times I've settled
on Valvoline VR1 Racing conventional 20w50 also. I don't buy into extended oil changes just
because it's synthetic - if your bike goes into high temp limp mode at idle your oil is turning to
junk regardless. Comprehensive tests have shown the best synthetics give you only 25 degrees
more protection and many do not test as well as VR1 Racing conventional oil. I personally like
the 5 quart size from Amazon and use the container for used oil disposal - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZCQZ771...v_ov_lig_dp_it

Originally Posted by Wizardofaus

The Zinc package is great.
This oil has a high zinc package for older cars that have flat tappet hydraulic or mechanical lifters. This oil is for use in high performance vehicles WITHOUT catalysts. The Zinc damages catalysts and some of the modern sensors.

Ha .... No thanks

Wiz 👎