Turns out didn't have to touch the top case rack to install the pannier racks. The rear prong of the pannier rack slides through an opening, so no interference. Nice surprise.
The left side bolted up just fine. Right side required some finesse. First thing was to thread all the bolts first, to ensure they wouldn't strip. Installed the front two bolts (passenger peg & muffler) with 3 turns max.
Then pulled to get the rearmost bolt in for 4 turns. Once those points were in, used my trusty large screwdriver with the blade rounded off as a pry bar to move the front top bracket hole into position, then dropped in the bolt and hand tightened. Got it done without scratching anything.

The bags are 5" wider than the handlebars. The top case will fit an XL Shoei Neotec II with plenty of room to spare. I do like the handles (strap points) built into the lids. Will make tying things down very easy.

 

I could not get the back bolts out with top case rack in place to slip the side case brackets in, and they are not slotted to do with bolt loose.

 

Hmmm. Came right out for me. Perhaps a change in the design?

Having said that, I have a gripe, which is the key(s)/locksets. Somehow, since I was planning on the sport cases, I got the impression that the boxes could be keyed to the seat release key. Not so.
For the aluminum (aluminium) boxes you have to carry yet another key.

Even worse, and this is a deal breaker long-term for me, you cannot remove the key with the barrel in the unlocked position. Seriously.
So they add the expense of cam-over locks (they don't unlatch by themselves) then require the key to be captured until you lock the case.
You cannot close the latch unless you have the key inserted and can't remove the key unless it's locked.

I get the whole safety argument, but these lids only open at the rear and have cam-over latches. If they wanted additional safety, they could have used a spring button release (picture below) to allow the latch to open. Plenty of bags have that feature.

The only answer, if I'm going to keep these bags long-term, is to make a short key. This involves having spare keys made, then grinding off most of the top of each 'spare' key. This provides a wide thin flat surface that can be epoxied to a black disk, slightly smaller than the dust cover. That way the key can be left captured and unlocked, so the cam-over latch can be engaged.

Before anyone starts with a safety discussion, please don't. There's a much greater likelihood that one will drive off with the unlocked key captured in the lock and the latch undone, than leaving the latch engaged but unlocked (with the short 'spare' key).
Why do you think there are all of those "REMOVE BEFORE FLIGHT" red streamers all over aircraft?

 

Beside the useless size for daily riding (yeah, I ride daily, that means traffic filtering) of 1,10 M of the Alu Boyexes I went to the Sport Cases. The are finally same wide as the handlebars, and with these ****wits SUV's on german narrow roads it is a pain, as there is the balance of size of the car and capability to participate in traffic (bigger car, less skills, empiric observations of 30y motorbike riding in Germany)

And this Key thing is another german invention (yeah, they are from Germany, and this is the problem, it is arkwardly over or lets say enginered to death)

The Sport Bags are designed in US, and that is the reason why they are better and more practical.

A good plan, I would do the same.
I hope a smart US company is designing Alu Boxes which are narrower than the handlebars. I would shout "Shut up and take my money!"

Here is my optinion: If you do not mod your bike and craft the solution you want, this is not your bike. If you are happy with a stock bike you are a stock person.

 

Dealt with the folks at MBB (Messerschmitt-Bölkow-Blohm) for many years, so well versed in the different thought process. Used to joke that the Humvee (HMMWV) must have been designed by Germans as there were no cup holders.

Found a key at the local hardware store and had three cut. It's an Ilco key blank X39 YH19.
It was tricky as there was some hand grinding to be done to the shank to get the key to fit all the way into the lock.
You can see in the picture, the grinding on the upper right side. It will work and the action is as good as the stock keys.

Going to cut off most of the top and epoxy into a button cap I found in the hardware section. Will post pictures when done.
That way I can leave the key captured, so I can close the latch without having to lock it every damn time.

 

The key thing is a bit annoying. I do understand the logic for it. It does not bother me much.

That said I will probably do it for the right side bag, which is the one I would be in and out of most if running around town. I'll follow and see how it works out for you.

 

My goal is for the key to not be obvious. I think this achieves it. Now the latch can be closed with the key captured in the unlocked position.
If I want to lock them I can do so with this key or the one with the electronic fob and seat release key.

Found the best epoxy to use is the JBWeld or similar putty that you knead then fill the cup. Push the key in the cup filled with the putty and rotate it around to adjust it to vertical. The cups came from TruValue hardware section.

 

Here's some updated pictures. Next two I make I'll shorten the key a bit more to have the cup sit flush with the lock. Pretty happy with the operation. Now the latch can be operated while remaining unlocked.

 

First time I saw someone do this, was my buddy on his 2013 F6B. Good going! Inconspicuous solution.