When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I bought this $18 race remover from the Bay for the steering head races. I had minimal faith that it would work, I know all you guys with welders lay a bead and they pop out. Well I do not have a welder and wanted to do it myself. I buy the tool and was pretty sure when ordering the "lip" was not going to be thin enough to fit under the race, I was right. But 10 minutes with a grinding wheel and it grabbed the race very nicely. Inserted socket and extension from the other side, 4-5 hits with a hammer and out came the race!!!!! Surprised myself how easy it was with the modified tool.
Why no one sells this tool the correct size for the older bikes is beyond me, I would have paid $40 if I knew it was going to work without modifications. Race removal not a big deal, I had been thinking about this one for a month, go figure.
Nice. My solution was to insert an old-style X auto lug wrench up from the bottom, bungee it in place, and WACK it with an upward swing from a sledge. It took a few cracks, but when it came out, it arced just over the forehead of the PO and neighbor, who was steadying the bike. Yikes...
Busy motorcycle weekend, amazing what you can get done if you stay home. JohnZ had done a rebuild of my Linkert for the flathead, but it needed a couple of external parts, got that sorted and installed. Then I decided to give the '59 some love. New fork races had been in the freezer for at least two weeks, time to get them installed. Appropriate 1/2" drive socket and a hammer, installed. Then pack the two bearings following by pressing dust shield and lower bearing on fork stem, took me a minute to find the right tool. Then install the trees, adjust per the manual. Then tubes and lower legs. I have brake shoes and new liners, did not install them yet so the brake is hollow inside. I had two extra lug bolts in my stash, so why not mount a wheel. Firestone ANS is the rear sand drag wheel for the Flathead, still like the look of the knobby. Fork tins for a good picture.
Progress.
Quick picture of the race removal tool with the race, again well worth $18.
Not much labor, but have been finding parts. Oley AMCA meet I scored a really nice Kelsey Hayes black wheel and a rear brake assembly with axle. Was missing some bits, slowly sourced those over the last month. Then last week I pulled the trigger and bought an oil tank, appears to be original paint with sticker and Patent badge. Nicer than expected when I got it unpacked, included battery hold downs, battery tray and bracket to frame. At first I thought it was over priced but now I am pretty happy with the purchase.
I need to find some time to rebuild the hubs on both wheels and install some tires. Then complete the brakes and I can make this thing a roller. The furniture dolly has already gotten old. Terrible pics but al I got.
I tackled replacing the riser rubber bushings on Saturday. Rubber part just pushed right out, outside metal sleeve in the riser may have been original HD. I read all the clever ways of getting them out to no avail. Finally a Sawzall and some patience then some caveman work and they were out. Putting new ones in was a bit of a challenge as well but we prevailed. Also peeled off the ancient tire that was on my front wheel, the bead did not want to break. Took a minute but we won.
Question, the Colony stock replacement riser bolt has a large flat head slot. Well impossible to hold that and tighten the riser nut under the top tree. Anyone have a tool or trick to hold the bolt? Old bits on the bench Sawzall and an attitude Temporary handle bar
Front wheel minus the 40 year old tire that didn't want to come off.
To break the bead I use a 8' long 2x4 and a second 2x4 pressed down onto the tire, been doing this for years. The other end of the 2x4 goes under my tool box, then I press down on the long end. For the first time I lifted the tool box before the bead broke. Switched to my basement stairs, lifted them up off the ground as well. Had to get right next to the rim then she gave way. Tire had been on there for some time for sure. Road Glide handle bars because all I had that were black.
So far I have not found any markings on the rim, may not be a Kelsey Hayes wheel, oh well. Will look some more.
I can't believe the last update was June and further cannot believe I personally have done no work to this bike. I got caught up in a new to me Touring bike, first world problems. Winter is upon us, Flathead needs to be turned back into a street bike (from TROG) then I will focus all winter on the Panhead. Fortunately I am not the only set of hands working on the bike. John Z has been plugging away at the motor that has been living in Jerzey since teardown early this year. To quote John "...fins and exhaust ports fixed. Cases glass beaded, threads corrected as needed and glyptol. Rods, pistons and bits all on hand, lower unit starting next." Some motor ****, you know who you are:
Repaired Rear head Cases Sealed New to the project Front head
I knew since tear down I had an older front head. I was going to live with it but my brain got the better of me. It would drive me crazy with the mismatched heads, too easy to spot. The Bay brought a new to me Front head. Of course John already worked some magic on the other head, so trying to save some money cost me more money in the long run.
Going to see John tomorrow to bring him the head and see the progress in person. Hopefully over the next 3-4 months I will be posting more progress from my shop.
PS anyone need a pre-1958 front head with all the fins already fixed and new exhaust port? I will check for casting date stamp tomorrow.
